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Discussion Starter #1
Changed the front brake pads the other day and the outer pad (piston side) was worn out much more the inner pad. only got 9,084 miles out of it too.

Brakes felt good and didn't make noise but why the uneven wear. Btw the wear is flat across the pads not on an angle.

Bikes only has 32,139 miles.

Rebuild the caliper? Clean and lube the guide pins? ???
 

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a common issue on all disc brakes... bikes, cars, etc, since the mid 1970's

sticking, rusty slide pins or glide ways.
sticking pistons ( one or several ) in the caliper.

dirt/crap in the master cylinder.... restricting flow back of the fluid.
even OLD brake fluid ( change every 2 years ). as brake fluid age, it thickens. reducing flow back.

and then the "RARE" issue.. the dirt/crap builds into a little "BALL" and acts like a one way check valve..
stopping flow back... but this one the brakes do NOT release.


yes, its 3am local. sucks not being able to sleep.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
a common issue on all disc brakes... bikes, cars, etc, since the mid 1970's

sticking, rusty slide pins or glide ways.
sticking pistons ( one or several ) in the caliper.

dirt/crap in the master cylinder.... restricting flow back of the fluid.
even OLD brake fluid ( change every 2 years ). as brake fluid age, it thickens. reducing flow back.

and then the "RARE" issue.. the dirt/crap builds into a little "BALL" and acts like a one way check valve..
stopping flow back... but this one the brakes do NOT release.


yes, its 3am local. sucks not being able to sleep.

I'm still up, it's 2:37am...:eek:
That's what i get for sleeping all day. :laugh:

I ordered some silicone grease and a can of brake cleaner tonight. (Cha-Ching$$)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Honda-Acura-Shin-Etsu-Silicone-Grease-08798-9013/131447281277?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and some brake cleaner (look how cheap this stuff was)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-DODGE-CHRYSLER-Brake-Parts-Cleaner-Non-Chrorinated-15oz-Aerosol-Can-MOPAR/233452625589?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I was too cheap to buy the lube the last brake pad change and just slipped the new pad in and rode...

The caliper was hard to push the pistons in i figured it was because the fluid was pretty darn cold. *ALSO* i did not loosen or remove the master cylinder cap during pad change, i never do. Always gotten way with that. Again the brakes were working good, no complaints. With the new pads they're even better, great. It's those slide pins, they need lube..

When this stuff comes in i'll remove the caliper and clean the crap out of it and lube those pins with the good stuff.. hopefully the rubber boots are fine, thinking they will be, the bikes pretty clean.

one more question, How many miles should be expected out of OEM pads with a rider that rides pretty hard and uses the brakes quite a bit? Approx range?

Thanks Chuck, appreciate the input. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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as part of my regular maintenance of my vehicles.


every 2 years... bleed the brakes, remove all calipers... and clean and lube all movable parts of the brake system... even hand levers, foot levers, shift levers...


I know the shift levers has nothing to do with the brake system.. but still needs service... since the tools are out and the cleaners and grease at at hand :)


as my bike is a 1800... the clutch system is also serviced.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I did my shift lever a couple months ago, i had the right grease (white lithium grease). also did the kickstand. Made a big difference, nice smooth shifts and no more fighting the kickstand to get it down, glides nice now.

I should think about getting the brake fluid changed, that's something i avoid messing with.
 

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You should clean the pistons before pushing them back into the bore.
They collect dirt that may prevent slight piston retraction.

I usually open the bleed screw to let old fluid out when pushing pistons back.
I may lock down the lever to keep the master piston at max stroke.
Then bleed to get the old fluid out. I have always added silicone grease to the pins.

In the first many years I wore out more rear pads than front pads.
I used to get 27k miles for rear pads and 68k miles for front set.
From early on the rear disk was always hotter than the front disk(I checked frequently when I got home).
I may have used more pressure with boots on that added to braking effort.
July 2018 - The ones just removed 40k miles for rear pads and 49k miles for front pads.

I suspect my riding style is different than yours!
 

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I did my shift lever a couple months ago, i had the right grease (white lithium grease). also did the kickstand. Made a big difference, nice smooth shifts and no more fighting the kickstand to get it down, glides nice now.

I should think about getting the brake fluid changed, that's something i avoid messing with.
Get some speed bleeders makes fluid change eazy Peazy....good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Not sure if that silicone grease i bought is the right stuff so i sent a message to the seller asking if it's pure silicone grease or some special formulation only for rubber seals. Not sure if it can take the heat of brakes.

The Honda service manual calls only for "Silicone Grease" on the caliper slide pics and i figured
Silicone grease is Silicone grease and bought it. now i am not so sure. Hmmmmm

bothers me that all the product reviews seem to be for weather stripping and door channel applications..

here's the stuff
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Honda-Acura-Shin-Etsu-Silicone-Grease-08798-9013/131447281277?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

EDIT ADD
Ahh ohh, look what if just found about this grease:

Question:Can you use this to lube caliper slide pins?
Answer:I wouldn't recommend it for brakes, it's too thick and tacky for that. It's best for lubricating window rails and weatherstripping. Use a silicone based lubricant that says it is specifically for caliper slide pins.
By John Rubio on July 2, 2015

Back to the drawing board... any recommendations, just go to auto zone?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

I'm seem to be bent on wanting Silicone Grease like Honda Says in the manual.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste-8-oz/232562341052 even this says "paste" not "Grease".

I want to stay away from those little packets of Blue Grease you can get at auto stores for like $1.49. Used it before on last bike and it gelled/clumped up.
 

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I have been using Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for many years.
Spark plug connection, electrical connections, side cover grommets, brake pads and pins, flange drive cushions, zip line cable.
Thick and tacky! 3 ounces lasts a long time. About $8
""Permatex® Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound whose dielectric and lubricitous properties facilitate and improve tune-ups.""
 

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Old Goat
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Just a FYI...Ive never had a problem with the pin grease from Auto Zone....good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, my plan is to clean the calipers, lubricate the slide pins, fill the slide boots with grease then change the brake fluid.

Called the dealer and left a message inquiring approx how much it would cost to do the fluid change front/rear. Glad i got the answering machine.
Based on the cost i may do it myself, watched a few youtube videos and it looks pretty easy. We'll see.

Trouble is the driveway in my carport isn't level which adds to the PITA of it.

in the meantime the bike is running great, the brakes are working very well with the new pads. Still, i didn't like the pad wear pattern this last time, plus the maintenance is due. Honda recommends changing the fluid every 2 years.

Thanks for listening and giving your thoughts guys, it's appreciated. To be continued....
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry about that..I prefer them with thread seal...good luck

http://www.speedbleeder.com/ FYI 1300/1800 use same bleeder....its my understanding that some mfgr’s...make different lengths...if u want....spiegler is one...
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Saw a 1/2 oz jar of Silicone grease at Ace Hardware for $4.99.

" SILICONE GREASE
*1/2 fl. oz.
*For rubber and synthetic "O"
rings
*No petroleum additives
*Waterproof, non-staining,
non-toxic, non-flammable
*450 deg. F max
*90% pure
*Plastic jar
*Carded 4095667

Would it be fine on caliper pins?
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UHsAAOxyhz5R6vL8/s-l1600.jpg

Either that or i am buying the 3M Silicone paste for $18.50 + Tax of which there will be 7.5 oz left in the jar when i am dead and gone.

Done want superlube or any synthetic i want Silicone Grease/paste (milky or clear)
 
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