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Old Goat
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I cant help....but I gotta ask WHY would u want to....o_O...good luck
 

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NO need.. do not use it.

its a fuel enrichener... like a chock blade... leave it in the "RUN" location.
 

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The fuel enrichment knob simply dumps more fuel into your carbs if/when needed. Typically when the bike is cold and ambient temps are low gasoline is less likely to vaporize. The added fuel enabled by pulling out the fuel enrichment knob provides the fuel the carbs/engine needs to bring it up to operating temps the carb jets (air/fuel settings) are set for.

By simply not using the knob you are effectively "bypassing" it, but why would you want to do that? It's an effective feature for allowing you to ride off quicker without engine stall or stutter.

You DO have the option of improving your stock air/fuel mixture to make it richer so the enrichment knob will not be needed as much. I improved my cold engine and throttle response time by performing the VTX Scar mod. Here is how to do it:

 

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By doing this modification it's going to make your performance better and hot and cold weather I hope because I live in Kentucky where it does get cold in the winter months were you could possibly still ride will this have any effect on it without having the choke knob
 

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By doing this modification it's going to make your performance better and hot and cold weather I hope because I live in Kentucky where it does get cold in the winter months were you could possibly still ride will this have any effect on it without having the choke knob
After performing the Scar Mod on your bike you'll still be able to use your 'choke' knob, (actually a fuel enrichment knob) when it's cold enough to need it, you just don't need to use it as much.

Here in California it gets cold enough for frost warnings in winter so for those mornings I'm glad I did the scar mod, otherwise I'd have to wait a lot longer for the bike to warm up, or try to ride off with it 'hiccuping' and stuttering like it used to. The throttle response is much improved as well at low speeds hot or cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wanted to do this bypass because I Can't get my 1300 05 to run without fouling plugs in 30 40 miles . I have rebuilt all parts in carb put in new and choke cable and float needles and still will not run . I am fed up.
 

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I wanted to do this bypass because I Can't get my 1300 05 to run without fouling plugs in 30 40 miles . I have rebuilt all parts in carb put in new and choke cable and float needles and still will not run . I am fed up.
Is it poossible the knob is not entirely retracting? If not it will run rich and foul plugs. As I recall some had an issue were there was something not right about the enrichment knob and that resulted in running rich. If I'm not mistaken, I think Hans is familiar with this particular fault.
 

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You DO have the option of improving your stock air/fuel mixture to make it richer so the enrichment knob will not be needed as much. I improved my cold engine and throttle response time by performing the VTX Scar mod.
Even after going through my carb completely, I still find it fussy and lengthy on the warm-up (gets cold here in MI). I've heard of this and absolutely want to do it. Thanks for passing along.
 

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Choke knob should have a gap (abt 1/8") between the knob and the rubber cover.
Loosen the friction nut under the rubber by squeezing it and unscrewing it.
Once you get get it loose, you should pull out the choke knob than release and it should immediately
close the valve and have some of the cable shaft visible.

I kept pushing mine in often the first few years and one time the tubing/hose came apart.
It did run richer (MPG) but no fouling.
I have my friction nut set to hold the knob in place, and I release after I get on the road and have shifted the 3rd or 4th gear.
 

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I added a stronger spring (brought my old spring to ACE hardware and matched it up). I also removed my enricher cable. I snapped the nut, and since I am dyno tuned, dont really need it anymore.




 

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I wanted to do this bypass because I Can't get my 1300 05 to run without fouling plugs in 30 40 miles . I have rebuilt all parts in carb put in new and choke cable and float needles and still will not run . I am fed up.
You do have the option of disconnecting your fuel enrichment cable (choke) to see if that makes a difference, but as Harkon suggests, first just see if the cable is adjusted correctly so it isn't still dumping fuel when you think its shut off.

IF the enrichment cable is adjusted correctly and you still are fouling plugs, the issue is most likely your Air/Fuel adjustment is too rich. Trying to pin down a stubborn issue takes patience, so hang in there and just take a break if it gets too frustrating. Keep checking back here with progress reports and you'll get it sorted out eventually. Of course there is always the option of having the bike towed to a local shop and tossing money at the problem, but if you have time/patience the members can be a great help.
 

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Even after going through my carb completely, I still find it fussy and lengthy on the warm-up (gets cold here in MI). I've heard of this and absolutely want to do it. Thanks for passing along.
The SCAR mod can be done where you cut the spring (under vacuum cap) or you don't. I found cutting the spring gave me improved throttle response and many others also report improvement. A super easy way to improve throttle response!
scar mod spring lenght
 

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Other people have posted that the sock enricher spring (you can see it in my second picture) needed more tension that it could allow enrichment even with the cable all the way in. So another thing to look at is getting the old spring out and stretching it a bit, or replacing it with the matching one from ACE hardware.

I replaced the spring even though I removed the choke cable since the spring still needs to keep the flap closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I've been working on this problem since July last year. So today I took it to the shop. .I didn't put 700 miles on it last year . I'm not gonna stay in the shadows again this spring. Thanks for all your help. I'll keep updated
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well shop told me bike was ready . Took it out for 25 mile ride in 39 degrees . Cold for this old man. Ran great first ten miles or so. after that I could tell it wasn't right. So drove for a total of 25 miles highway and city .Got back to shop and had them pull plugs.Jet black ,sooty .Were new when I started . Back to the freaking drawing board
:mad::mad::mad:
 

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Well shop told me bike was ready . Took it out for 25 mile ride in 39 degrees . Cold for this old man. Ran great first ten miles or so. after that I could tell it wasn't right. So drove for a total of 25 miles highway and city .Got back to shop and had them pull plugs.Jet black ,sooty .Were new when I started . Back to the freaking drawing board
:mad::mad::mad:
See my post about the enricher flap spring. That may not be putting enough tension on the flap to keep it closed. It isn't that hard to get to, but it is on top of the carb though.
 
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