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Discussion Starter #1
Need some input from you electrical experts out there. I did the desmog and PAIR valve mods recently and took off for the Blue Ridge Parkway with a couple of buds of mine. We got rained on this past Monday afternoon on the way down and then I noticed my turn signals quit working, along with the brake light and horn. I checked the fuse box and a 10 amp fuse controls all three of these and it was blown. By the way, the bike has been in much heavier rain than we had on this trip and I've never had a problem. Really didn't get the bike very wet but water could easily have gotten in somewhere it shouldn't, but am not sure this would make a fuse blow in low voltage circuits unless there is some other problem. I replaced the fuse and didn't use the turn signals and the fuse blew again. I replaced it and unhooked the spring from the foot brake switch and the fuse blew again. I wasn't using the horn anyway so I didn't bother to disconnect it. When I did the PAIR/desmog and took out the couple of electrical connectors, I did as Tapper said and put pookie in the connectors and taped them. Don't think that would have anything to do with this, unless they derive their power from the horn, turn signal, and brake light circuit, which I doubt. Anyway, I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. The bike is under warranty but it's such a hassle taking it in and being down for several days while they fix it, I thought if it was maybe something simple, I'd just do it myself. Electrical problems can be such a PITA that I'd rather fix it myself it I can. All help wanted, with much appreciation.
 

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I have a C, but looking at the electrical, the horn, taillight are also tied in with the high-beam indicator light, among others.

Continue to try to isolate various circuits. I would pull the headlight bulb. Also cycle the horn switch and highbeam switch a few times. Try removing the blinker relay too.

Considering that the only recent change is the "pookie" addition I would also, if nothing else works, clean it out. I assume you added it to the "exhaust inject valve" circuit connector. Seems unlikely, but I would still consider it if the problem exists.

http://bareasschoppers.com/schematics/02-03VTX1800R-S_schematic.jpg

Good luck.
Russ
 

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This is a long procedure, and it is getting late, I probably have
some errors in this but here goes:

First thing to do:
Press on your turn signal switch to make sure that the turn signals
are cancelled out.
Then Go to your favorite automotive specialty store and purchase
a package of 25 of the mini 10 amp fuses.


You are going to need a lot of those fuses if you choose to
follow this procedure. Otherwise, you are going to need
an ohmmeter or multimeter and a circuit tester light.
I am not going to describe a procedure which will cost you
money to purchase test equipment that you may not know how to use.

Get the fuses.

The wiring color coming off the fuse that keeps blowing is
white with green stripe.
As you said, white with green stripe goes to the horn switch,
the turn signal relay, the brake switches.

The easiest thing to do is to disconnect the horn.
Pop the two connectors off the horn.


This probably won't make a difference because as you said,
you weren't using the horn button anyway.
But it is something that you need to do to eliminate the horn
as being the source of the problem.

The horn and the turn signals both go to the left hand switch assembly.

Both the left and right hand switch assemblies use
multipin connectors for the wiring, so it is not easy to disconnect
just the horn switch or just the turn signal switch.

Likewise, you have probably already discovered that it is not
easy to disconnect the front brake switch without disconnecting the
kill switch and the starter pushbutton because they are all part
of a multipin connector ( the red one ) located in the headlight shell.


Signal wiring colors are orange for left turn and light blue for right turn.

Turn the keyswitch off and replace the fuse again.
Turn the keyswitch on again.

If the fuse does not blow, it could be because the horn
or the horn wiring is the problem, or it could be because
you cancelled out the turn signal switch.
So now activate the left turn signal and see if the fuse pops.
If it doesn't, then activate the right turn signal and see
if the fuse pops.

Skip down to isolating the left or right turnsignals if applicable.

But if it did blow, it still could be because of the turn signals
or the front brake switch


If the fuse blows again, turn the keyswitch off and
replace the fuse.


Disconnect the turn signal blinker relay.

This is the front most relay under the right side cover and has
three wires going to it, green, gray and white with green stripe.

Turn the keyswitch on again.

If the fuse does not blow, then you have the problem
localized to the turn signal circuits.

Now you have to figure out if it is the relay itself,
the left hand switch assembly, or either the left side
or right side turn signals.

Turn the keyswitch off again, replace the fuse again
if needed.
Hook up the blinker relay, but disconnect the left handlebar
switch assembly.


If the fuse didn't blow with the blinker relay out, it probably
wont blow with the blinker relay hooked up but the
left handlebar switch out of the circuit.
But if it does, your problem is due to a pinched wire in the
main wiring harness, somewhere under the gastank.

So reconnect the handlebar switch assembly and
turn the keyswitch back on again to verify that you still have the
problem. If the problem does not show immediately,
then activate first the left turn signals, then the right turnsignals.


Somewhere along the line, the fuse should blow.
If when you have the left turn signal activated, then use the
procedure for the left signals, if when you have the right turn signals
activated, then use the steps for the right turn signals.

LEFT HAND TURN SIGNALS

If the fuse blows again, then open up the headlight shell and
disconnect the orange (left turn signal ) wires.
Now your left front turn lamp is disconnected.

Turn the keyswitch off, and replace the fuse again.
Turn the keyswitch on again and see if the fuse blows again.
If so, turn the keyswitch off and replace the fuse again.

Now go to the wiring bundle under the right side cover and
disconnect the orange wires there.

At this point both of your left turn signals are disconnected.
Turn the keyswitch on again.
You should not be blowing fuses. Your problem is in the wiring to
the left rear turn signal.


RIGHT HAND TURN SIGNALS

If the fuse blows again turn the keyswitch off,
replace the fuse again.
Disconnect the light blue wires in the headlight.
turn the keyswitch on.

If the fuse blows again, then turn the keyswitch off.
Replace the fuse again.
Disconnect the light blue wires in the wiring bundle under
the right side cover.

At this point both of your right turn signals are disconnected.
Turn the keyswitch on.
If the fuse does not blow, then the problem must be
the turn signal wire (lightblue)
going to the rear fender.


FRONT BRAKE SWITCH
Replace the fuse again and turn on the keyswitch again.
If the fuse blows again, then disconnect the front brakeswitch
(since you already have the rear brakeswitch disconnected).

My guess is that the wires going to the turn signals or the
brake light under your rear fender have been rubbed by the
rear tire or hit by a stone thrown up by the tire and you
will find the problem under the rear fender.

As I said before, when you disconnect the front brake switch, you also
disconnect the kill switch and the starter push button switch.
That is why I left this part for last.
But I think you will have isolated and repaired the problem before you
get this far.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guys. One more thing I forgot to mention last night. When I replace the fuse and turn on the bike, I can't get the fuse to blow. Everything works as it should. It's only when the engine is running that the fuse blows. Does this deepen the mystery or is it a clue that helps to pinpoint the trouble?

Thanks for your help. Coyoyte, that was quite a detailed piece you put together. If you can do that when you're tired, what can you do after a good nights sleep?
 

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i had the same problem . seems that the turn signal wire coming from my lightbar was rubbed through and shorting out the same fuse
 

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Bigbore,

Because the problem mostly seems to occur while the engine is
running, and not when the bike has the keyswitch on but the engine
is not running, you will need to use your eyes to carefully examine
each wire involved with your turn signals, horns and brake lights
which is not enclosed in a protective sheath.

Honda has used some very thin wires in our bikes, with likewise
thin insulation on the wires. Engine and road vibration of the thin
insulation against a sharp edge of the frame or a fender
can cause one of the wires to be grounded that should not be.

Your eyes will be your most valuable troubleshooting tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks much guys. I really appreciate your help on this. Any problem can be a pain, but electrical problems can be a Royal Pain. I will be checking it out this weekend. It's still under warranty but I don't want the hassle of taking it to the dealer and waiting several days to get it fixed if it is something I can find and fix without major effort or expense. I'll let you know what I find.

Bigbore
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've been unable to fool with the fuse problem until last Wednesday. I replaced the fuse and turned on the key. Everything worked perfectly. I started it up and let it idle for several minutes and everything still worked perfectly. I took it out for a 75 mile ride and still everything worked just as it should. I went back home and pulled up in front of the garage and checked the turn signals, horn and brake light and all was fine. I turned off the bike and let it sit for a couple of hours. When I went back out and started the bike to put it in the garage, the fuse was blown again. Does this make any sense to anybody? It has me puzzled for sure.
 

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bigbore said:
I've been unable to fool with the fuse problem until last Wednesday. I replaced the fuse and turned on the key. Everything worked perfectly. I started it up and let it idle for several minutes and everything still worked perfectly. I took it out for a 75 mile ride and still everything worked just as it should. I went back home and pulled up in front of the garage and checked the turn signals, horn and brake light and all was fine. I turned off the bike and let it sit for a couple of hours. When I went back out and started the bike to put it in the garage, the fuse was blown again. Does this make any sense to anybody? It has me puzzled for sure.
This shouldn't happen from just sitting there. It had to happen as a result of you moving the bike again. Look for chaffed wires near frame contact points, as was suggested earlier. Move the wires around to expose potential chaffed areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It would seem that it would happen from the bike being moved and a bare wire shorting out, but why didn't that happen in 75 miles of riding? It's a puzzling situation. Electrical problems can be some of the worst to diagnose. If something mechanical is messed up, it's messed up till it's fixed, not like an electrical problem that can be intermittent and very hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, good point. I'll go check that out. Might be the solution!!

Thanks to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Found a wire that was shorting out and causing the fuse to blow. Problem solved. Thanks to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, I'm not afraid to admit to a stupid oversight when I was doing the desmog/PAIR valve mods. I did the ground mod first and everything went well. While I had the tank off, I did the desmog and PAIR valve work, deciding to remove the front coil again along with the upper radiator hose to get at the reed valve cover screws easier. It is really easy to get the screws out if you do that. The only problem was that the ground wire which is held in place by the rear coil bolt was under some tension and pulled back out of the way and I didn't see it when I replaced the rear coil bolt so it was not readily visible and I overlooked reconnecting it. It was floating around between the top of the frame and the top of the engine block. I found it the other day after not finding any problem with the other wiring. I felt like a real dummy. Apparently that was intermittently grounding itself and causing the fuse to blow. I was finally able to get the fuse to blow by moving the handlebars back and forth so I knew the problem was a bad connection, or in this case, no secure connection at all. They say that confession is good for the soul, so right now my sould is feeling top notch. I don't feel threatened by admitting to screwing up, on the relatively few occasions when I do. I have done a lot of wrenching on bikes over the last 40+ years, but I found I can still goof up if not careful enough. I normally check everything twice when putting things back together. But this one got by me. I'm just glad I didn't take the bike in for warranty work. I'd have never heard the end of it from the guys at the dealer if I had.

Thanks for the input and sorry for the trouble of responding to my problem. I really appreciate the help. I rode in a rally today to help a yong lady who has had a lung transplant and her family has medical bills of over $1M. The bike ran flawlessly, no problems with fuses or anything else.

Thanks again to all.
 

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To all y'all who contributed to this discussion, THANK YOU!!! Turn signals were OUT, horn was OUT, & - in a strange twist - brake lights were stuck ON. Came down to wiring connections, fuses, & a burst/crushed bulb on the left rear. You guys' comments prepped me well & helped me find resolution. Everything works again (only cost me a spare fuse I had in my truck). Keep these great ideas & comments coming!
 
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