Honda VTX Forum banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 1800c. Fresh battery this year. Put new plugs in it yesterday. It has a teclution fi fuel management box. K&n air cleaners. Its became hard to start. Spins over fine just won't start without twisting the throttle alittle. Any suggestions?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,629 Posts
Are you smelling fuel, like it's flooded. Mine did that when the FPR went out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Actually yes I do smell gas. I'll definitely unhook the FI tuner with I get home. I've had the bike for 10 years and have never touched that box. Is it just a plug and play unit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,612 Posts
1. Remove aftermarket fuel manager.
2. Check wiring, vampire clips score strands = poor connection, wires break sometimes.(TPS)
3. Ground fix. FI electronics need a good ground.
4. As Harkon mentioned - FPR, which have been failing since 2013
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,629 Posts
Actually yes I do smell gas. I'll definitely unhook the FI tuner with I get home. I've had the bike for 10 years and have never touched that box. Is it just a plug and play unit?
You may want to check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Internally there is a diaphragm that over time can leak. The diaphragm is vacuum controlled and when you first turn the key and the fuel pump starts to flow fuel to "prime" the system, fuel will leak through the diaphragm into the vacuum line. You will have a flooded engine before you even touch the starter button.


If you have had the bike for 10 years and this has never been replaced, then you should replace it with new as it is just a matter of borrowed time at this point.


One way to check, likely the easiest, is to pull the vacuum line at the FPR and turn the key to prime the system. Any fuel in that vacuum line or exiting the FPR vacuum port indicates you need a new FPR. If you do there's is one more very important thing to know. At this point you have been dumpling a large amount of fuel into your engine, and have washed the cylinder walls with fuel, that is washed off the lubricating film, and have fouled your oil. Check your oil. Does it smell of fuel? You will need to change your oil / filter, use an inexpensive 10W40 oil for this change. Run the bike for 10 or 20 minutes, like a short ride, and then change the oil (no need to change the filter) again with your regular brand. Do this after you have changed the FPR and don't run the engine until the FPR is changed and the fouled oil is dropped and replaced with fresh. The FPR will ship with a rubber plug on the fuel return port. That absolutely needs to be removed upon installation.


Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Actually yes I do smell gas. I'll definitely unhook the FI tuner with I get home. I've had the bike for 10 years and have never touched that box. Is it just a plug and play unit?
You may want to check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Internally there is a diaphragm that over time can leak. The diaphragm is vacuum controlled and when you first turn the key and the fuel pump starts to flow fuel to "prime" the system, fuel will leak through the diaphragm into the vacuum line. You will have a flooded engine before you even touch the starter button.


If you have had the bike for 10 years and this has never been replaced, then you should replace it with new as it is just a matter of borrowed time at this point.


One way to check, likely the easiest, is to pull the vacuum line at the FPR and turn the key to prime the system. Any fuel in that vacuum line or exiting the FPR vacuum port indicates you need a new FPR. If you do there's is one more very important thing to know. At this point you have been dumpling a large amount of fuel into your engine, and have washed the cylinder walls with fuel, that is washed off the lubricating film, and have fouled your oil. Check your oil. Does it smell of fuel? You will need to change your oil / filter, use an inexpensive 10W40 oil for this change. Run the bike for 10 or 20 minutes, like a short ride, and then change the oil (no need to change the filter) again with your regular brand. Do this after you have changed the FPR and don't run the engine until the FPR is changed and the fouled oil is dropped and replaced with fresh. The FPR will ship with a rubber plug on the fuel return port. That absolutely needs to be removed upon installation.


Good luck.
I hate to ask a dumb question, but where is the fuel pressure regulator on the bike so I know where to look?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I found the loction thanks to bare ass chopper. My oil dont smell like gas and I just changed it last week I believe. Can I get away with changing the FPR without changing the oil?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,629 Posts
I found the loction thanks to bare ass chopper. My oil dont smell like gas and I just changed it last week I believe. Can I get away with changing the FPR without changing the oil?
If the oil doesn't smell of fuel, you should be fine to just change the FPR.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I found the loction thanks to bare ass chopper. My oil dont smell like gas and I just changed it last week I believe. Can I get away with changing the FPR without changing the oil?
If the oil doesn't smell of fuel, you should be fine to just change the FPR.
Harkon, thank you my friend for all your help. I will post tomorrow how it did and post again after I get the FPR changed. I won't be anytime swap the FPR till tomorrow afternoon or Sunday.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,629 Posts
Harkon, thank you my friend for all your help. I will post tomorrow how it did and post again after I get the FPR changed. I won't be anytime swap the FPR till tomorrow afternoon or Sunday.
No problem. If your FPR were bad, your bike would really smell of fuel, get really bad mileage, and would foul the oil. It sounds like you've found your problem, changing the FPR, at this point, would be preventative. As mentioned, on the early bikes, it's just a matter of time before they do fail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,891 Posts
Harkon, thank you my friend for all your help. I will post tomorrow how it did and post again after I get the FPR changed. I won't be anytime swap the FPR till tomorrow afternoon or Sunday.
Replace the vacuum line while you're at it. A hose that is cracked and cannot hold a vacuum has the same effect as a damaged FPR in that it allows the engine to run too rich.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I got the FPR replaced. Wasnt as bad as I had thought. I replaced the vacuum line which I think was the culprit. But anywho, new FPR, vacuum line, plugs , battery and fresh oil. I think I'm good to go. Bike started great. Will continue to monitor and see. I can tell a difference since I took off that FI tuner. What exactly was that thing supposed to do anyway?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,629 Posts
Ok, I got the FPR replaced. Wasnt as bad as I had thought. I replaced the vacuum line which I think was the culprit. But anywho, new FPR, vacuum line, plugs , battery and fresh oil. I think I'm good to go. Bike started great. Will continue to monitor and see. I can tell a difference since I took off that FI tuner. What exactly was that thing supposed to do anyway?
Those are supposed to allow you to tweak the fueling in the low/mid/and high ranges the engine operates in. Basically it's just a pulse stretcher for the injector signal. It's kinda like a jet kit for fuel injection, but it can only add fuel. Mostly, on the VTX, if you add pipes and an air filter for more air flow, it helps to add a bit of fuel in the low end. The VTX is already reasonably rich in the upper range, and handles the mid just fine on it's own ... generally speaking, anyway.


I should add, that a fuel manager, for those bolt ons mentioned, is not necessary for the VTX. Many have done these mods and do not have a fuel manager. Mostly they help with decel pop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I'm still having trouble with it starting some days and other days it fine. I haven't got to ride much since I originally changed the FPR and vacuum line. I took off the vacuum line to see if gas was dripping out and there was none at all. What else could it possibly be? I'm really getting aggravated with this thing. I even checked the fuel vent tube and blew some air through it and it was clogged. Maybe fuel pump or fuel filter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I have not done ground fix. Tank vent tube wasn't clogged, I was able to blow air through it. It does it both cold and hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hard starting part 2

I posted a few weeks back my 2003 vtx1800c was hard to start. With all the advice I got I replaced the plugs, oil change. fuel pressure regulator, vacuum line going to FPR. It's still hard to start. So today I pull off the tank to see if fuel filter and tank had crude in it. It was very very clean. I disassembled the fuel pump assembly and cleaned everything. The fuel filter was not clogged. So I'm lost again and really at wits end with this thing. Could it be possible I bought a new faulty FPR? The tank is still off so I'm still going over all vacuum line and just looking for anything in general. It only has 10k miles. The fuel pump cycles when key is switched on. It just continues to turn over alot before starting. Please help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,612 Posts
Did you ever check the 2 pin connector block near the starter relay? It is from the 30 amp fuses to the the harness?

Bareasschoppers dot com Melted main wiring.
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top