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#4351 boards on #8815 splined pivoting adapters. I called Kuryakyn because there was no pic of the 8815s on the site, and they confirmed they are the right ones. I figure with 5 locating positions I ought to be able to find one I like. I will take a pic next weekend I hope.
 

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#4351 boards on #8815 splined pivoting adapters. I called Kuryakyn because there was no pic of the 8815s on the site, and they confirmed they are the right ones. I figure with 5 locating positions I ought to be able to find one I like. I will take a pic next weekend I hope.
http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/1598/Splined-Adapter-Mounts-for-Cruisers-Sport-Bikes

*Splined Adapter for driver applications requiring P/N 8816 or 8826 are intended for floorboard applications only.


Man the notes are confusing. From the above note it looks like it would require 8816. Good thing you called. The Floor-bds sure do look sharp.
 

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Had same issue with pop can. Wore pretty thin after a few years. Actually replaced the Al with a plastic shim from a 2 liter bottle. Greased it and installed. Working fine and should wear very well too. That plastic is some tough stuff.
FWIW MC Enterprises boards on my C.
 

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Well, I finally finished this afternoon. Adjusting the brake pedal was a bit of a pain is all. Got the grass cut too before the deluge hit. Works great. Really like the feel.
 

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Going to give it a shot.

I'm going to order the H/T shifter and try this on my '04 1300C. Will take a bit before I get to it but I'll post how I made out when done.
 

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olderider

I wanted it so here is how I got it;

>Buy: one heel/toe shifter for a VTX 1300 Retro and the two rubber pads for the shifter (The linkage connecter comes attached but the pads must be installed... hold them under the hot tap water for a minute and they will be easy to push onto the shifter) (These parts, I bought from HDL.)
Now
>Go to Ace Hardware and buy two #93 "O" rings from the plumbing section and one #8 (metric) stainless washer from the nuts and bolts section.
>Obtain an aluminium drink can (beer,cola etc...).
>You will also need some moly-grease.

The operation:
(A bike jack/lift is needed to gain clearance for this operation)
1) Raise the bike on the lift,
2) Remove the shifter assembly from the bike,
3) Remove the shift pivot bolt from the bracket,
4) Loosen the lock(jam) nut on the shifter linkage, (do not turn it past the point of lose and let the nut stay at that point on the shifter rod, the new shifter will be adjusted to the same point and locked down by tightening that nut).
5) Turn/spin the shifter and remove it from the shifting rod.
6) Clean the grease and remove the seal from the shift pivot bolt.
7) With a pair of tin shears, cut a strip from the aluminium can that is (as in the picture) wide enough to cover the "shoulder" area of the shift pivot bolt.
8 ) Wrap the strip around the pivot bolt to get two full wraps and cut it to that length.
9) Roll the strip and insert it into the new shifter, (see photo).
10) Push the pivot bolt into the shifter and check to ensure that the rolled strip does NOT extent out of the hole on the shifter on either side... if it does, trim the strip so that it only fills the area needed.

The assembly:
1) Install new shifter onto the shift rod and turn it in to the position of the jam nut.
2) Place one #93 "O" ring onto the pivot bolt.
3) Insert the rolled strip (sleeve) into the new shifter.
4) Lube the pivot bolt with moly grease.
5) Insert the pivot bolt into the sleeve being careful to keep the moly grease off of the bolt end (threaded portion).
6) Place the second #93 "O" ring into the seal channel on the opposite side of the shifter.
7) Place the #8 washer onto the threaded portion of the pivot bolt and install this assembly onto the shift/foot bracket. (as you turn the pivot bolt the "O" rings will seat into the seal channels and keep the grease from oozing out. Tighten the pivot bolt.
8 ) Reassemble the foot bracket to the frame, check for proper clearance of the shifter and tighten all bolts. DON"T forget to tighten the jam nut. After checking to make sure all bolts are tight. Get that bike off of the lift and go enjoy your new shifter :D

The parts you will need

The parts you will need (close up)

The "sleeve" inserted into the shifter

The sleeve and pivot bolt inserted, to show the "fit"

The assembly

The finished product


Edited portion=
You do NOT have to be a master wrench to do this mod... All you need is regular hand tools and basic knowledge.

Here is the info you will need:
From HDL, buy the following;

1 ) 1 OEM Heel-toe shifter for the VTX 1300 Retro.(linkage coupler is installed)
Pt# 24710 - MEA - 740 @ $32.27

2 ) 2 Rubber shift pads for that shifter.
Pt# 24781 - 371 - 000 @ $2.84 ea. ($5.68)

Total cost $37.95 (add $5.00 handling if your order is less than $100.00 [$42.95])

8)
You've earned a lot of fans with this step by step process!! I have a 2003 VTX 1800R which I just bought from the original owner who decide to cut the heel part off because his feet were too big. Can this mod be done following the same instructions with a bike that has floorboards? thanks Also is there a way to get replies on this website sent to your email?
 

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Thank you!

Thanks, RoadDawg, my X now has a terrific HT shifter.

To the rest of you reading this thread, um....follow Dawg's directions to a "T." When I couldn't find a #8 metric stainless-steel washer at my local Ace Hardware, I bought a 5/16" SS washer, rationalizing that the slightly larger O.D. wouldn't be a problem. It all fit together well enough, but when I bolted it onto the bike, the extra OD of the washer caused the O-rings to compress and grab the stud in an iron grip, and no matter how much I cranked the stud it would tighten/loosen with every nudge of the shifter. In frustration I tried a #8 metric cut washer, bolted it up, and sighed mightily when everything worked just as Dawg intended it to.

What I haven't told you yet is it took two hours of wrenching in the morning, a lost day of riding to work and another two hours in the evening before I ate humble pie.

FWIW to anyone else doing this mod, I had to remove the horn/bracket assembly to access the shifter stud. Then it was a whole 'nuther bit of fun working blind and in reverse while tightening/loosening the stud. I agree you don't need to be a master wrench to do this mod, but you'd better be patient mechanic when trying to thread up the stud for reassembly.

Thanks again, RoadDawg. :)
 

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Great looking mod and looks perfect. I actually did the opposite; when I got the VTX1800R I was so used to the C shifter I ended up grinding off the heel shifter. I hated how much space it took up and I wanted more space on the floor board. Kind of a hassle but forgot all about it until I saw your post. Looks clean, how do you like it so far?
 

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Work in progress ...

I just traded my VT1100C2 A.C.E. & got a VTX1800F1. (Excited) The 1st thing I did was to search for a way to put a heel-toe shifter on her b/c that's what I'm used to on the old bike. I'm SO GLAD I found this forum and subject! THANK YOU FOR POSTING THESE WONDERFUL DIRECTIONS!!! My shifter came in the mail about 15 minutes ago & will be working on this mod as soon as I can get to it!
BTW, even though the prices are slightly higher than when this was 1st posted, it should still be under $50 when I'm done. People like the ones here really make the world go 'round. Thanks again!
 

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will you pm me the parts that you actually ordered. I think I am going to go ahead and make the switch. thanks in advance. tiny
I just traded my VT1100C2 A.C.E. & got a VTX1800F1. (Excited) The 1st thing I did was to search for a way to put a heel-toe shifter on her b/c that's what I'm used to on the old bike. I'm SO GLAD I found this forum and subject! THANK YOU FOR POSTING THESE WONDERFUL DIRECTIONS!!! My shifter came in the mail about 15 minutes ago & will be working on this mod as soon as I can get to it!
BTW, even though the prices are slightly higher than when this was 1st posted, it should still be under $50 when I'm done. People like the ones here really make the world go 'round. Thanks again!
 

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Parts to order from hdl

will you pm me the parts that you actually ordered. I think I am going to go ahead and make the switch. thanks in advance. tiny
I'm new here & will have to figure out how to PM. Meanwhile, I have a screenshot to share from the HDL website...

Added: Dang, the pic is showing smaller than what I uploaded.

HERE, TRY THIS...
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2528307&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2006&fveh=132336

Qty of 1:
002
PEDAL, GEARSHIFT
24710-MEA-740


Qty of 2:
004RUBBER, CHANGE PEDAL
24781-371-000
 

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I have everything except the o rings now, will be doing this pronto. Looking forward to it.
 

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Getting close! I chose to make a bushing rather than use the beer can, but otherwise the mod is the same. I will put 'er on this afternoon to see how the setup works out with my Cobra floorboards.
 

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Getting close! I chose to make a bushing rather than use the beer can, but otherwise the mod is the same. I will put 'er on this afternoon to see how the setup works out with my Cobra floorboards.
what did you use for a bushing? looks good by the way.
 

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It's just an oilite bronze type bushing. I used a reamer and some patience to enlarge the shifter hole a little, then the same with the interior surface of the bushing once installed until the bolt moves freely. The bushing was 5/8" OD if I remember correctly. I cut it to length once I had it sized correctly. I put a little medium loctite on the bushing before sliding it into the shifter arm. SHould hold it on place nicely.
 

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Nice Mod

I am interested in doing this mod, but I have installed Kury gruise peg mounts with retro pegs. Will the heel -toe shifter clear Kury cruise peg mounts for the 1800C?
 

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Had same issue with pop can. Wore pretty thin after a few years. Actually replaced the Al with a plastic shim from a 2 liter bottle. Greased it and installed. Working fine and should wear very well too. That plastic is some tough stuff.
FWIW MC Enterprises boards on my C.
You are so right. Mine got sloppy and I just tore it down. Plastic, here we go.
 

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IMG_2081.jpg

Sorry I have been out of town and could not reply. I ended up putting the shifter in a hydraulic press and bent it into a shape that would allow clearance around my foot board bracket. I was chancing that the chrome plating would not crack, and it didn't.

One note....I asked the guy who started the thread about why he did not use the 1800 shifter instead of the 1300 shifter. I was expecting a complicated answer. I was surprised when he said the 1300 bracket was just what he had to use. I didn't see that in his original story. My bad for not questioning before jumping in I guess. I suspect that you won't have to bother with all the bolt bushing fit issues if you order the 1800 shifter in the first place. However, the 1800 shifter price is twice that of the 1300 shifter. I have no idea why. Good luck!
 
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