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Uh, the 1800 heel toe shifter is FOUR times the cost of the 1300 unit.
 

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Just got all my parts on order for this mod! Cant wait to get this done, hope it all arrives before my trip this coming weekend...
 

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If I were to locate a bearing that fit the shifter pivot bolt but was too big for the shifter would drilling it out be a problem? I'm not sure how I feel about using a beer can as a shim.
 

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If I were to locate a bearing that fit the shifter pivot bolt but was too big for the shifter would drilling it out be a problem? I'm not sure how I feel about using a beer can as a shim.
GO to post number 114 and after. You will see that I made a bronze/oilite bushing to use for mine. All is working fine so far.
 

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I switched from aluminum to the plastic from a milk jug. Working just fine.
 

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Here is what my finished product looks like. Works fine.
IMG_2120.jpg
 

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Amazing mod

I don't know why they would tell you that. The parts are listed separately. When I changed my 1800 c foot pegs to the 1800 retro floor boards I had to look up each part and order them separately (one order of course)
dd
Kool mod for sure
I have 1800R, it comes stock with floorboards and H&T shifter, I really like the floorboards but I never use the "Heal" part of the shifter, it really gets in the way sometimes when I try to adjust my footing, I got big feet tho....... But..... It's nice for those who like that kind of stuff!! :)
 

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Kool mod for sure
I have 1800R, it comes stock with floorboards and H&T shifter, I really like the floorboards but I never use the "Heal" part of the shifter, it really gets in the way sometimes when I try to adjust my footing, I got big feet tho....... But..... It's nice for those who like that kind of stuff!! :)
I will swap you the stock front lever shifter from my "F" model for your heel/toe shifter! Interested?
IMG_2132.jpg
 

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Coke can bearing only lasted 3 years. now on 2nd year on a water bottle bearing. No slop and pretty much self lubing.
 

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2007 1300C Install

I was doing some research to install a heel-toe shifter on my 2007 1300C and ran into this thread. I saw some people asked if this would work for a 1300C so I decided to order the parts and give it a try.

What I learned:

1. The heel-toe shifter won't fit the Cobra swept floorboards properly.
2. The heel-toe shifter from the 1300R will not fit as designed on the 1300C. The main reason is spacing between the shifter and the engine block.
3. The shifter rod from the 1300R will fit better than the one that comes with the 1300C.
4. You will not be able to remove the shifter rod without removing the plastic cover that sits underneath the ignition key.

These two issues can be overcome with a few washers of varying sizes.

The first issue to overcome is the space between the frame of the cobra floorboards and the shifter, just keep in mind that you will need to add offset washers on the other side of the shifter assembly to keep the shifter from sliding off or being stuck by the stock washer.

The second issue to overcome is the space issue between the engine block and the floorboard frame, this was done by adding a few more washers between the frame of the bike and the floorboard frame.

Once all bolts are properly secured to factory specs, the floorboards and heel-toe shifter fit and work very nice!
 

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Minor adjustments are certainly expected. It was necessary to make slight bend modifications to the shifter for proper clearance around my Cobra floorboards. Took about 5 minutes.
View attachment 53683
 

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View attachment 52236

Sorry I have been out of town and could not reply. I ended up putting the shifter in a hydraulic press and bent it into a shape that would allow clearance around my foot board bracket. I was chancing that the chrome plating would not crack, and it didn't.

One note....I asked the guy who started the thread about why he did not use the 1800 shifter instead of the 1300 shifter. I was expecting a complicated answer. I was surprised when he said the 1300 bracket was just what he had to use. I didn't see that in his original story. My bad for not questioning before jumping in I guess. I suspect that you won't have to bother with all the bolt bushing fit issues if you order the 1800 shifter in the first place. However, the 1800 shifter price is twice that of the 1300 shifter. I have no idea why. Good luck!
Milkmaster, I have a 1800C and just got some Cobra floorboards and I followed the instructions to the T. I am running into an issue. I cannot shift using my HEEL shifter it seems to clear the engine so I am wondering if I have to adjust the shifter rod. Also the shifter pin just barely clears the Cobora floorboards. I cannot use the Cobora acorn nut on the shifter pin. since it screws into the floorboard is it just cosmetic or do I need the bolt?

Thanks!
 

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Help Needed

I followed these instructions to the T and I am running into an issue. I have a 1800C with pegs and a single shifter that I changed out to the heel toe shifter (the one everyone is using on this thread) When attaching the Shifter pin and tightening it, the shifter gets stiff. Also, when connecting it to the Cobora floorboards the screw barely clears the hole. Cobora sent a acorn nut I am not sure if it is cosmetic because the shifter pin screws into the floorboard. I was thinking that I might have to adjust the shifter rod because I cannot shift. Has anyone ever gotten this to work with a 1800 with Cobora floor boards? Take a look at the images. one is a close up of the shifter pin screwed into the Cobora floorboard. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!

Heeltoe w floorboards.jpg Heeltoe pin w floorboards.jpg
 

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Your pictures look just like mine before I straightened out the rear bend in the shifter to alleviate the interference with the Cobra floorboards. It's easier and safer to do off the bike. That way you will not break things you will need later. Yes you will need to adjust the shifter rod. That rod has right hand threads on one end and left handed threads on the other. Take off the transmission side cover and the linkage rod will reveal itself to you. Start the threads the same on both ends to allow maximum adjustment. In short you must straighten your new shifter to allow clearance and then install it on the floorboard. the 2nd step is to adjust the linkage so the shifter will function and sit in place to your liking.
IMG_2151.jpg
IMG_2152.jpg
 

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Your pictures look just like mine before I straightened out the rear bend in the shifter to alleviate the interference with the Cobra floorboards. It's easier and safer to do off the bike. That way you will not break things you will need later. Yes you will need to adjust the shifter rod. That rod has right hand threads on one end and left handed threads on the other. Take off the transmission side cover and the linkage rod will reveal itself to you. Start the threads the same on both ends to allow maximum adjustment. In short you must straighten your new shifter to allow clearance and then install it on the floorboard. the 2nd step is to adjust the linkage so the shifter will function and sit in place to your liking.
View attachment 53837
View attachment 53838
Cool, I am on the right track, thanks! I have a ? do you have a nut on the shifter pin that is screwed into your floorboard? Also does the sifter wiggle? I see the screw moving.. Thanks Milkman!
 

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I do not have a nut on the shifter pin. In fact it isn't long enough I used a little Loctite during the install. I Bought a new pin when buying the shifter. That way I had time to work on the bushing while my bike was still whole. The threads were very tight with the new shifter pin. The old pin had a little wiggle in it, but never came out.

Yes I have a small amount of wiggle in the shifter, but not enough that the shifter hits anything. The amount of wiggle is directly related to how much clearance you have on the pin bushing. That was one of the reasons I made a properly sized bushing for the pin. The tight fit around the Cobra floorboards presented a little more challenge than if I only had the stock pegs.

I am encouraged because you are asking the right questions. Take your time. You will get there and be proud of your work afterwards. Good luck!
 

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still under $50 for the shifter

I realize the last post to this thread is over a year old, but I got my hands on a 06' 1300C last fall and have been doing some upgrades and modifications.

The price for the shifter and pads is still under $50 with shipping ($49.38)

To add to rodmunera's post:
  • I used the Cobra classic floorboards and had to grid the edge of the bracket slightly to add a little clearance from the shifter.
  • The shifter mounts on the standard foot peg or the Cobra classic floorboards for the 1300C without the need for the bushing.
  • The stock shifter rod can be used but the adjustments are all the way in to make clearance for the heel shift.
  • If you have big feet this will not work well with the classic floorboards, with my heel against the back shifter I have just an inch in front of my boot. * 8.5 shoes
So just in case anyone else is still looking to do this mod on a 1300C.
 

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I know this is an older thread but I just did this mod to my 2003 1800C and I found something interesting you all need to know.

The brake pivot bolt for the 1800C works perfectly in the shifter for the 1300R!

The parts I used for this where as follows.

Shifter. Part number 24710-MEA-740. $39.11
Shifter rubber end caps. (You need 2) Part number 24781-371-000. $7.84 X2
Shifter seals. (You need 2) Part number 91251-MT4-003. $2.91 X2
Brake shaft pivot bolt. Part number 46513-MCH-000. $16.81

And last a washer from the local hardware store to act as a spacer as the shaft of the pivot bolt is slightly longer than the width of the barrel on the shifter it goes threw. I paid $0.87 for a stainless steel washer that I had to open the hole up just slightly for it to work. I used my dremel and a small grinding stone to do this.

After you have the washer ready to go installing everything on to the bracket is easy. (We will assume you have removed the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the bike at this point and disconnected the shift linkage rod.)

Install the seals in the shifter. Install the Rubber end caps on the shift. (A little spit helps. LOL)
Next add grease to the pivot bolt and some in the barrel of the shifter and then put the pivot bolt threw the shifter from the back side. Now add your washer.
Add a drop of blue lock-tight to the threads of the pivot bolt and screw it in to the bracket.
(Reconnect the shift linkage and bolt the bracket back to the bike. Adjust linkage as needed.)

The shifter is now mounted and works like its stock because other than a washer these are all factory parts!

No need to make a bushing from an old soda can, or water bottle or what ever. LOL

I ordered all the OEM parts from partzilla.
I spent a total of just under $98 including shipping and tax. :grin2:

I can get some pics if you guys want. I did not take any when I did the install.
But I have to take it all apart again in a few days when my Cobra floorboards arrive and I swap all this over to them.
 
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