[RTL9965]

I just want to preference this by saying that the only work that had been done recently was an oil change. Here is a list of everything aftermarket mechanical on the bike:
Cobra Exhaust
Pear Valve removed w/block off plates
Kuryakin Hypercharger intake
Amsoil

My problem is that my '05' 1800N is idling rough and has no power at low and high speeds... FML!!! :cus:
This is how is started... about 100 miles or more after the oil change I was riding into work and near the end of the 10 mile ride it began to run like it had no power on acceleration. At the end of the day it fired right up and rode home with no problems. A couple days later I rode again after a couple miles the problem began again so I parked it for about an hour and when I started it up again the problem began immediately. From then on the problem is constant.
Here are the symptoms my girl has:
- #1 Cylinder’s exhaust is colder than #2 when first started and for awhile after start while idling.
- Rough Idle (Sounds like its missing but no knocking)
- Strong Fuel smell when running
- Reduced power on acceleration and normal speed (Went on short run after replacing plugs and found that I had to hold the throttle open more than normal to keep my speed up)
I have consulted Clymers and this is what I have done so far: :tools:
- Ensured oil level is correct
- replaced the plugs (old ones not fouled but some carbon buildup on rim)
- checked to make sure there is spark to each plug by grounding an extra plug to the block while running
- unplugged one plug wire at a time and found out that when unplugged the #1 right plug causes rougher idle, #1 left plug does not cause a rougher idle, and both #2 plugs cause a rougher idle. This leads me to believe that while I am able to prove that there is spark going to all the plugs something is wrong with the #1 left plug.

I have not checked the Timing as Clymers suggests because I'm not confident that could be the issue. Also I haven't checked valve pressure cause I don't have the gauge to check it.
My next coarse of action is to take off the tank and test the coils but before I do that I want to talk with the VTXOA community and see what ya'll have to say. After reading some other posts I feel that it may be the FPR or the fuel filter or a number of other issues. That is what I would like to hear from the experts... cause I'm just hitting my head against the wall here!!! :banghead: :dontknow:
Any help you guys can give will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Gadget Guy]

I just want to preference this by saying that the only work that had been done recently was an oil change. Here is a list of everything aftermarket mechanical on the bike:
Cobra Exhaust
Pear Valve removed w/block off plates
Kuryakin Hypercharger intake
Amsoil

My problem is that my '05' 1800N is idling rough and has no power at low and high speeds... FML!!! :cus:
This is how is started... about 100 miles or more after the oil change I was riding into work and near the end of the 10 mile ride it began to run like it had no power on acceleration. At the end of the day it fired right up and rode home with no problems. A couple days later I rode again after a couple miles the problem began again so I parked it for about an hour and when I started it up again the problem began immediately. From then on the problem is constant.
Here are the symptoms my girl has:
- #1 Cylinder’s exhaust is colder than #2 when first started and for awhile after start while idling.
- Rough Idle (Sounds like its missing but no knocking)
- Strong Fuel smell when running
- Reduced power on acceleration and normal speed (Went on short run after replacing plugs and found that I had to hold the throttle open more than normal to keep my speed up)
I have consulted Clymers and this is what I have done so far: :tools:
- Ensured oil level is correct
- replaced the plugs (old ones not fouled but some carbon buildup on rim)
- checked to make sure there is spark to each plug by grounding an extra plug to the block while running
- unplugged one plug wire at a time and found out that when unplugged the #1 right plug causes rougher idle, #1 left plug does not cause a rougher idle, and both #2 plugs cause a rougher idle. This leads me to believe that while I am able to prove that there is spark going to all the plugs something is wrong with the #1 left plug.

I have not checked the Timing as Clymers suggests because I'm not confident that could be the issue. Also I haven't checked valve pressure cause I don't have the gauge to check it.
My next coarse of action is to take off the tank and test the coils but before I do that I want to talk with the VTXOA community and see what ya'll have to say. After reading some other posts I feel that it may be the FPR or the fuel filter or a number of other issues. That is what I would like to hear from the experts... cause I'm just hitting my head against the wall here!!! :banghead: :dontknow:
Any help you guys can give will be greatly appreciated!!!

I believe just like my 2004N you do not have a FPR and the fuel filter is built into the fuel pump. Check you battery connections and do the ground fix first. I had a similar experience recently and it seemed to end up being bad fuel related. I was running like it wanted to cut off and I have to keep the RPMs up at stop lights or it would cut off. I was around a 1/4 tank and after filling up and running 60-65 it only hesitated 1 time and cleared up. No problems since and that was about three weeks ago.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

You're loosing a cylinder;

1. Tighten your battery cables
2. Do the ground fix, paying attention only to the "Common Electronics Ground" section as seen on the "How To;Step-by-Step" board here
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205905

These are the Top 2 reasons for your symptoms.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Welcome to the board!
Bookmark or save to your favorites folder, these websites, http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=77
This is the NEW VTXOA Garage, a sister site to this message board and contains all your How-to/Tips/Tricks/Why’s and links to other helpful sites for your new VTX. http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/ A fellow VTX Riders site that has many write-ups on “How-To” do work on the VTX. Also, for you 1300 guys http://vtx1300tips.com/VTX1300TIPS.htm another fellow VTX Riders site.
There is also a helpful Search icon in the users Toolbar just under the VTXOwners Association banner
Click the “Search” drop down and select “Advanced Search”
Now, enter your keywords and select a single forum to search in
Select 1, and only 1 "Forum" to search in at a time, or at all.
For example, "Best airbox" I would only search in the "1800 Tech Board"
That's the basic way, you can limit further by using some of the other "Drop-Down" menu's like if you know the thread you are looking for is only a week or so old, etc....
The purpose of the "Search" is to offer a member the opportunity to research his/her question better. There is so much information from past threads that you may never see because that member is no longer here, or doesn't see your new post, or just won't respond to the same question. So use it to your advantage and enjoy the board! View this funny and informative film about posting and searching…
How To Use This Forum, Click Here
Take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the forum. At the top of every board there are threads that are tagged as "Sticky" These threads are "Sticky" because they contain very important/valuable information about the VTX and everyone should read them.
The thread at the top of the 1800 tech board called, "Air, Fuel, Motors..." will answer most of the performance questions...
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21749
Also, update your Profile to include where you live and what type X you have to your Signature line. I.E. 1300/1800/C/F/N/R/S/T

 

[Chicago-Spike]

It's NOT the FPR, even if you did have one and I'm pretty sure the Neo does not have one

 

[RTL9965]

You're loosing a cylinder;

1. Tighten your battery cables
2. Do the ground fix, paying attention only to the "Common Electronics Ground" section as seen on the "How To;Step-by-Step" board here

These are the Top 2 reasons for your symptoms.

Thanks Chicago-Spike. A Honda shop tech just told me to swap my coils to see if the problem changes cylinders so I'll to the Ground fix when I swap the coils. I'll let ya know how it goes... time to get out the tools and beers!!!

 

[BadAxe]

Thanks Chicago-Spike. A Honda shop tech just told me to swap my coils to see if the problem changes cylinders so I'll to the Ground fix when I swap the coils. I'll let ya know how it goes... time to get out the tools and beers!!!

Not sure what the coil replacement costs, but why not do the "free" fixes first. With all you looked at, could be a very simple fix. Good Luck.

And check the battery cables as suggested. I recently had a power issue as well, came here, they said look at the cables. I was like No Way, I just put the battery in and made sure the cables were tight. Couldn't be that. Took the seat off, and the neg cable was finger loose. Tightened it up, and all was fixed.

 

[Chicago-Spike]

The tech knows nothing, unless he is a long-time member here. Coils, rarely go bad. The 2 things I listed above, happen OFTEN on teh VTX. Often enough that I have that post saved as a Word.doc on my computer to copy&paste here at least once a week.

Do the 2 things I listed above, I will bet that fixes it and makes your VTX run like it never has before

 

[Slick X'er]

I had the same problem, and thanks to this board I finally found it. Snip off about 1/4 inch of the plug wire where it connects into the coil- runs like a raped ape now

 

[Kyoujin]

You'll learn to listen to Spike. He's literally filled with answers to almost any question you could think of. Welcome to the board and good luck.

 

[2002VTX]

Yay Spike!

 

[tnvnl]

I'm guessing fouled spark plugs.

 

[3 SLEDR]

+1 on the battery cables and ground fix, my 1800c was running rough, spike said check the cables and it was a loose cable. I think anyone who buys a vtx should be told this upfront.:bowdown:spike!

 

[Guest]

Is there anyway someone can explain in detail how to clip the plug wires

 

[coltergeist]

I got this from Bare when my bike dropped a cylinder while on the highway. I managed to limp back home on one cylinder and called Bare. The spark plug wires have 2 ends - one to the spark plug and one end LOOKS LIKE it screws into the coil. (note - to get to the front coil, you'll have to either prop up or remove the gas tank). Two wires to each coil. One at a time (so you don't forget which wires go where), unscrew a wire from the coil. Slide the plastic cap up the wire about an inch or two. You should see a bump in the black plastic insulation - this works like a compression fitting. You can take a dull knife, straight metal edge, or your fingernail like I did and pull back on that bump - until the thin painted black rubber coating stretches and breaks and you can work that "bump" up the wire about an inch (same direction you pulled the cap). You've now exposed the end of the spark plug wire on the coil end. The wire is mostly insulation with just a tiny hole in the middle where the copper wire is. The receiving end (the receptacle in the coil) is actually a spike - like the sharp point of a nail. It goes into that hole and touches the copper wire. Over time, that connection can corrode. Snip off about 1/4 inch of the spark plug wire (on the coil end), thereby obtaining "fresh" copper wire at the end, stick the fresh-cut end into the receptacle in the coil firmly, slide the "bump" back down until it hits the threads, then slide the plastic cap down over the bump and screw it down snugly. Repeat for other 3 wires and you're done.

 

[RTL9965]

The tech knows nothing, unless he is a long-time member here. Coils, rarely go bad. The 2 things I listed above, happen OFTEN on teh VTX. Often enough that I have that post saved as a Word.doc on my computer to copy&paste here at least once a week.

Do the 2 things I listed above, I will bet that fixes it and makes your VTX run like it never has before

Spike, my bike seems to be an oddity when ever I work on it... ok so its an 05 1800N and I'm doing the grounding fix like you said and right off the bat there is an issue. Per the instructions there is supposed to be a secondary ground to the frame just forward of the battery. I attached 2 pics showing that the SHHIIIT ain't there!!! :banghead:
Thinking that maybe its somewhere else I trace the battery ground and it goes to the common chassis ground near the oil filter but there is no secondary wire that splits off... am I missing something? Do I need to worry about the no secondary ground? Should I add a secondary ground? Again thanks for your help... you are a VTX God! :bowdown:

 

[Chicago-Spike]

No, the secondary was only on the early models. Yours, as you know, doesn't have one. All you have to worry about is the "Common Electronics Ground" sectioon

 

[RTL9965]

A little more help please...

No, the secondary was only on the early models. Yours, as you know, doesn't have one. All you have to worry about is the "Common Electronics Ground" sectioon

:bowdown: Spike you are awesome!:doorag: I'd been meaning to do the grounding fix next time I had the tank off :tools:but as is my luck something went wrong before I could. So Spike was right (as always:firstplace and the grounding fix took care of the problem I have listed above.
But now I have an old problem that has returned... :banghead:While test driving the bike after the ground fix I got on the throttle to get the RPM's up and heat the engine up but when I did my FI light began to flash and the bike stopped accelerating so I let off the throttle and it was okay after that. About 2 miles later I throttled up again and the FI began flashing again and this time a main line 30A fuse blew (the B fuse according to Clymer). This is not a new problem just one that went away on its own and is now back in force.
Here is a description of what exactly happens... I get on the throttle and the FI begins to flash and if the fuse blows the FI light will stay lit solid (no blink code). The bike will still be running at an idle but I can not accelerate. If I try the engine will cut out. It can start back up but I need to hold the throttle open while hitting the starter. Now as I said this is a problem that I had before and because of that I carry a lot of 30A fuses with me so I can change out the main line fuse B (according to Clymer's) or the middle socket on the main line fuse box. After that it will run again unless I get on the throttle at which time the FI will begin to flash (I'm not sure but I think its a series of 4-5 fast flashes).
Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I don't think its a grounding problem because it only happens when accelerating fast and I just did the grounding fix and this is a problem that happened before I did the fix. Please help!

 

[Chicago-Spike]

Sounds like teh TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Do you have any type of fuel manager on the bike that taps onto the TPS wire on th ECU harness?

 

[RTL9965]

Sounds like teh TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Do you have any type of fuel manager on the bike that taps onto the TPS wire on th ECU harness?

No sir, never installed a power commander or the like. Previously the fuse would only pop after the bike got really hot (stop and go traffic in Florida). But now any temp...