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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a brake issue and looked on here at the How 2 Posts but I can't get the cylinders to move afther I had them re-done! I would like to call and get some advice as I tried to pump them out and they will not move! I pushed them in and it took a lot of force and will not come out now? I don't want to beake them as I was to have it at a show for set up 4hrs ago! I have a 11pm dead line to have it there and ready!

2nd

Ok so here is a little more info;
I had the front and rear brake clappers re-chromed not a dip but a newer spray on method. The issue is that the so called pro sprayed on this stuff I thought I got off around the cylinders. So a few hours of clean up and a few more or tapping all the threads I reinstalled them but the cylinders will not close. I’m not a mechanic and may have missed something here? I looked on here at the How 2 threads and the web sight on the assembly and I know I put it back together correct. However the bleeder valve will not work so I bleed the brakes thru the main line and still can‘t get them to close on or off the bike! I would really appreciate it if I could call one of you who have some experience with these bikes for some help! I tried to put a pic on here of my bike as I would still love to make the show!
My info Dale 416-505-8554 cell you can text me your number so I can call and pay the long distance.


3rd

Ok so here is where we are at;
-It’s a 1300 VTX C
- There is no way I can close the piston by hand! In fact it took some force with a clamp! I only got it down showing 6 to 8 mm, is that as low as they go?
-I’m sure they got spray on it and need ideas to brake it free if the brakes will not bleed
- I bleed form the banjo bolts / the man hose to the cap papers. I got very little brake fluid on the cap papers and they got soft! But that still didn’t work in that the fluid came out good and clear and I closed it off but not enough presser to make them close again?
-I taped all the fitting so I’m as good as I’m going to get and the bleed screw will still not work? It sit good!
-The I already did cut around the pistons but it was such a mess I could not make out oring seal? I know where it is and looked on line to see what it is but I think it’s covered now and don’t know if the piston will still work or if the oring is in fact still there?
-the brakes pump fluid but will not get stiff or brake the piston free?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have a brake issue and looked on here at the How 2 Posts but I can't get the cylinders to move afther I had them re-done! I would like to call and get some advice as I tried to pump them out and they will not move! I pushed them in and it took a lot of force and will not come out now? I don't want to beake them as I was to have it at a show for set up 4hrs ago! I have a 11pm dead line to have it there and ready!
Ok so here is a little more info;
I had the front and rear brake clappers re-chromed not a dip but a newer spray on method. The issue is that the so called pro sprayed on this stuff I thought I got off around the cylinders. So a few hours of clean up and a few more or tapping all the threads I reinstalled them but the cylinders will not close. I’m not a mechanic and may have missed something here? I looked on here at the How 2 threads and the web sight on the assembly and I know I put it back together correct. However the bleeder valve will not work so I bleed the brakes thru the main line and still can‘t get them to close on or off the bike! I would really appreciate it if I could call one of you who have some experience with these bikes for some help! I tried to put a pic on here of my bike as I would still love to make the show!
My info Dale 416-505-8554 cell you can text me your number so I can call and pay the long distance.
 

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sounds like they were contaminated with over spray or some debris and are seized now. The piston should compress quite easily. I was able to do mine by had. calipers are milled pretty tight so it wouldn't take too much over spray to get it all stuck
 

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Is the lever firming up at all?
If not - you may just need to bleed at the banjo bolts. Often, an air bubble will get trapped there.
 

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The brake should have enough force to break the seal from teh chrome paint and move the pistons. So you just need to bleed the brakes. I would try to bleed from the bleed screw if you can get it loose. Use a tight fitting wrench or a six sided socket. You can also take a razor knife and cut around the threads to help break the chrome paint's hold. Once you get firmness at the lever hold it and wait for the seal to break. Do not try cutting around the pistons because you will scratch the piston and/or cut the oring seal which will make it leak.
 

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Yes, it sounds like they are stuck because of the spray on crap. If the cylinders will not move easily, you either have to;
Remove all that spray on crap, rehone the cylinders and rebuild the calipers comepletely
Buy new calipers

Does the bike have to be driven into the show?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so here is a little more info;
I had the front and rear brake clappers re-chromed not a dip but a newer spray on method. The issue is that the so called pro sprayed on this stuff I thought I got off around the cylinders. So a few hours of clean up and a few more or tapping all the threads I reinstalled them but the cylinders will not close. I’m not a mechanic and may have missed something here? I looked on here at the How 2 threads and the web sight on the assembly and I know I put it back together correct. However the bleeder valve will not work so I bleed the brakes thru the main line and still can‘t get them to close on or off the bike! I would really appreciate it if I could call one of you who have some experience with these bikes for some help! I tried to put a pic on here of my bike as I would still love to make the show!
My info Dale 416-505-8554 cell you can text me your number so I can call and pay the long distance.

Ok so here is where we are at;
-It’s a 1300 VTX C
- There is no way I can close the piston by hand! In fact it took some force with a clamp! I only got it down showing 6 to 8 mm, is that as low as they go?
-I’m sure they got spray on it and need ideas to brake it free if the brakes will not bleed
- I bleed form the banjo bolts / the man hose to the cap papers. I got very little brake fluid on the cap papers and they got soft! But that still didn’t work in that the fluid came out good and clear and I closed it off but not enough presser to make them close again?
-I taped all the fitting so I’m as good as I’m going to get and the bleed screw will still not work? It sit good!
-The I already did cut around the pistons but it was such a mess I could not make out oring seal? I know where it is and looked on line to see what it is but I think it’s covered now and don’t know if the piston will still work or if the oring is in fact still there?
 

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I don;t believe the pistons colapse all the way back into the caliper. But if you had to use a vise to get them to move, you don't want them on your bike. They should move fairly easy with just your finger pressure. You have to take them apart and hone out the cylinder s to make the clearance again and so that it is even all the way around.
 

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As has been stated, if you had to use a clamp to push 'em back in, something is very, very wrong! To get 'em out again, pull the calipers, drain what fluid you can out of 'em, remove the pads and any hardware and replace the pads with a small piece of scrap wood. Now use air pressure to remove 'em. Put the caliper (with wood buffer) on a bench or table, place a heavy rag over the entire mess, press the *rubberized* tip of the air gun against the banjo bolt hole and apply several short bursts of air until the pistons pop out. And make sure you keep your damn hands and fingers away from that opening!

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok I give that a try. Don't have the tools heer so it will take some time. But that makes sence thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lol.... Yea I guess your right! The FREE good advice is good to! Thanks again to you all and if anyone has any new or used callipers, chromed would be best ! Let me know. I have looked on here already and found two just waiting for a reply but they are not chromed
 

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I thought of one thing, it is a long shot but could be part of the problem. If he sprayed the chrome paint over the oring oil seals then he may have dried them out. Some of those paints require a 200deg. F bake to set properly. If he didn't pull the pistons and seals to do this then the seals could be so dry the pistons can just barely move past them. So you could possibly oil the top of the seals and sides of the pistons enough to get them to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good Day all!

I know it’s been a while and I have made some head way, but I still don’t have brakes! Very important thing you know! Lol…. Bike info: 2004 VTX 1300C brake issue still on going!

Ok so I bought used callipers front and back now had them chromed like my last set but done by a different guy. They look good and work. Here is the problem now. I can’t get 2nd brake pad (opposite of the piston side of the calliper) to fit snug against the disks on both sides? I bought a vacuum bleeder and performed a successful bleed and I’m confident that they work so I’m only left to guess that the callipers just need to be tightened to fit closer to the disk so the other side (pad/s both sides) can close up against the disk. Sounds logical however I can’t tighten the main bolts any tighter then they are? I’m quite strong and anxious as a 220lbs Army dude any more I put into it something will brake! I also can’t get the front pin that holds the one side of the pads to sit all the way in so I can screw in the finishing cap into it's place? I even tried using the used bolts that came with the used callipers to see if the chromed ones are the issue and I still have the problem? I can apply the front brake and still push the bike by hand so I know it’s dangerous to ride? Your help so far was and is greatly appreciated and any further help is truly needed as I have a show in 30 days and I want to be the only rider to ride my bike to it! Note I’m in Canada so we still have snow here!
:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
If you find it easer on the phone I will call you if you send me a PM?
:tools:
Dale : Unruly
:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good Day all!

I know it’s been a while and I have made some head way, but I still don’t have brakes! Very important thing you know! Lol…. Bike info: 2004 VTX 1300C brake issue still on going!

Ok so I bought used callipers front and back now had them chromed like my last set but done by a different guy. They look good and work. Here is the problem now. I can’t get 2nd brake pad (opposite of the piston side of the calliper) to fit snug against the disks on both sides? I bought a vacuum bleeder and performed a successful bleed and I’m confident that they work so I’m only left to guess that the callipers just need to be tightened to fit closer to the disk so the other side (pad/s both sides) can close up against the disk. Sounds logical however I can’t tighten the main bolts any tighter then they are? I’m quite strong and anxious as a 220lbs Army dude any more I put into it something will brake! I also can’t get the front pin that holds the one side of the pads to sit all the way in so I can screw in the finishing cap into it's place? I even tried using the used bolts that came with the used callipers to see if the chromed ones are the issue and I still have the problem? I can apply the front brake and still push the bike by hand so I know it’s dangerous to ride? Your help so far was and is greatly appreciated and any further help is truly needed as I have a show in 30 days and I want to be the only rider to ride my bike to it! Note I’m in Canada so we still have snow here!
:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
If you find it easer on the phone I will call you if you send me a PM?
:tools:
Dale : Unruly
:banghead:

Ok so I got both the front and back to work but as I can’t get the front pin that holds the one side of the pads to sit all the way in so I can screw in the finishing cap into it's place? I even tried using the old pin that came with the used callipers. So if anyone knows why this pin may not fit all the way in I’m all ears. I know it’s not chrome as it’s clean and I used very little plumbers tape so I’m confused? But until the road test I’m doing ok?
Thanks for all you help!
:D
Dale
 

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Ok so I got both the front and back to work but as I can’t get the front pin that holds the one side of the pads to sit all the way in so I can screw in the finishing cap into it's place? I even tried using the old pin that came with the used callipers. So if anyone knows why this pin may not fit all the way in I’m all ears. I know it’s not chrome as it’s clean and I used very little plumbers tape so I’m confused? But until the road test I’m doing ok?
Thanks for all you help!
:D
Dale

It sounds like you inboard brake pad is not seated properly. Loosen the pin and try and re-install the inboard pad
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, Very good thanks! I will take it apart and try that to make it work! I have to get to work now but wish I can get this done now! However thanks agian!
:D
Dale
 
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