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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 VTX 1300 R
Whether choked or not, it sputters when starting up (regardless of temp), runs fine after 2-3 miles. If I stop on a ride to take a break, and fire it back up after a 10-15 min break, it sputters and dies, then runs fine after a minute or so.
I have Cobra Classic slash cuts and a K&N filter (just filter, no "kit"). No other modifications.
Called my local dealer as bike is still under warranty, and he said Carb issues do not fall under the original 1 year warranty. He suggested dumping in some Marvel Mystery oil and 93 octane fuel. No luck, did not change a thing.
Bike ran fine all the way from last June to this past February (when I had to use a bit more choke in the morning).
Have read in forums that an A/F screw adjustment is needed, but I am new to this.
How close are the recommended settings of "2 1/2 turns" given my setup?
Have pulled the plugs and they are not totally shot, but a bit fouled. What is a good cleaning method? Or should I just replace them? If replacing, should I go stock, (NGK-DCPR 6 E) or is there a better brand or type? Please provide a link for them if different.
Regarding A/F setting, if environment makes a difference, I live in Florida and weather is generally mild year round. 80% of my driving is city streets.
If you have any pictures showing locations of the screw, please fwd a link.
If anyone out there has been through this or a similar situation and can provide a bit of info, I would greatly appreciate it.
:confused:
 

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Try the plugs first .... Champion RA8HC

Your stealer has no idea what octane rating is. This is a low compression engine and designed to run on regular. Octane rating is the resistance to knock. All ratings have approximately the same amount of energy in BTUs. So you gain nothing by running a fuel designed for a high compression engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try the plugs first .... Champion RA8HC

Your stealer has no idea what octane rating is. This is a low compression engine and designed to run on regular. Octane rating is the resistance to knock. All ratings have approximately the same amount of energy in BTUs. So you gain nothing by running a fuel designed for a high compression engine.

Since I am very new to this, please advise on the plugs as I have been told the higher the number, the "colder" the plug. Original is NGK xx6xx and you recommend the Champion xx8xx. If this is the case, will this plug still be ok with mostly city driving or am I at higher risk for fouling it and need to go with something different?
 

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Since I am very new to this, please advise on the plugs as I have been told the higher the number, the "colder" the plug. Original is NGK xx6xx and you recommend the Champion xx8xx. If this is the case, will this plug still be ok with mostly city driving or am I at higher risk for fouling it and need to go with something different?
Fouling is more of an issue of using the enricher (choke). Any plug will foul if you use the enricher too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fouling is more of an issue of using the enricher (choke). Any plug will foul if you use the enricher too much.
OK. Makes perfect sense regarding the choke. I also had a reply in between from a friend of mine who said the numbering theory is not quite true. You have to check with the individual manufacturer as European plugs are set as lower number is hotter, where American plugs (Champion, Autolite, etc) the higher numbers are hotter. Thanks again for your advice. I am going to get the Champions and put them in and I have a tool coming for the A/F screw so I can adjust that as well. With all the responses I have had about the plugs and the a/f screw, I am almost convinced it just might be the right thing to do. LOL. Thanks again.:bowdown:
 

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If I was you, I would stick with the OEM NGK's. I change my plugs to (Champion RA8HC) when I fouled the OEM NGK's using the choke when I first got mine, ever since I don't use the choke. And you being from Florida, you shouldn't need to at all. Just use the throttle a little until it smooths out. The Champion RA8HC plugs worked OK until I changed the exhaust and the carb setup. At lease it seemed to make a difference.:dontknow:
 

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Also, make it easy on yourself, only change one thing at a time. . if you change out the plugs, see how that runs for a bit, you may just have needed new plugs.

If you still have the problems, adjust the A/F screw, etc etc.

If you make wholesale changes, the bike might get even worse then it is now. . and that would be bad. . ;)

Key thing is addressing one thing at a time until you fix the problem, then you don't run into more problems.

Good luck.
 
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