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can anybody tell me what part is the reed, I got it apart and i see a screw holding a thin piece of steel and a thicker piece with a rectangular hole in it. the instructions ive see was to drill out the two screws that are holding the reed but all there is one screw holding it and I can screw it out so why would it be drilled out?.Any help would be appreciated.
 
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tapple said:
can anybody tell me what part is the reed, I got it apart and i see a screw holding a thin piece of steel and a thicker piece with a rectangular hole in it. the instructions ive see was to drill out the two screws that are holding the reed but all there is one screw holding it and I can screw it out so why would it be drilled out?.Any help would be appreciated.
If you can screw it out...do that. With mine, I could go about 2-3 turns and that was it. The threads are mushroomed at the tip so it can't back out on it's own.

Remove everything that the screw holds.
 

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The reed valve is the thin piece of metal held in place by the screw. Take a pair of needle nose vice grips and turn the screw. The head will break off and the remainng part of the screw & reed valve will drop out. Replace the holder back in its original position before replacing the cover. The holder has a rubber gasket around the outside which is the gasket needed to prevent the cover from leaking. Be careful when tightening the cover bolts and DO NOT over tighten. You are working with aluminium and you can strip the threads.
 

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Tapple,

I got caught up the same way you did. There is 1 screw, and 1 boss (not 2 screws) which together line up the reed (thin piece of steel, drilled thru) and the plate that clamps the reed to the main gasketed part. To keep from destroying the main part, I took the assembly first to a bench grinder and ground off the mushroomed tip of the screw (not the head). It's very difficult to do this without also nicking the boss next to the screw, but who cares.

After you grind the tip off, you can back the screw out with a philips head. Then, of three pieces, you only put back the main gasketed piece. Later (since I haven't heard from anyone that the system will pass emissions inspection without the pair valve) I can simply buy a new screw, and screw the whole thing back on.
 

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I read about this procedure last year and wanted to do it over the winter - but this just sounds too elaborate.

I did it the simple way: I used a small yellow wire nut, which at the top has almost the identical diameter as the larger hole in the breather box. To increase the diameter and to improve the seal, I wraped it in a couple of layers of electrical tape. Very tight fit but can be removed easily.

The whole procedure too about 5 minutes :)

No more back-firing at all and the engine noise cleaned up quite a bit. I'll wait with the full removal until I have to do something else under the tank.
 

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Might be too late for this but read what VTXrover did in this thread:http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65269&highlight=nipple Wish I would've thought about this before doing what I did (blockoff plates). Even after doing it this way I wish I would've drilled a hole in the plate (not all the way) to allow for the screw, that way you could but the system back easy, but VTXrover’s idea is even better.
 
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