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After reviewing many forum discussions about the infamous VTX Fuel regulators, I decided to change the one on my “new to me” VTX (1800S - 26K miles, all stock).

I did the diagnostics first, smelled for gas in the oil, checked for fuel in the vacuum tube, pulled and held a vacuum on the diaphragm and all seemed negative. The bike ran well and I really did not think I had an issue. But for $40 and 20min of work, I figured it was a good pre-emptive thing to take care of.

Once off, I compared it to the new one to the one that was on the bike. Markings looked the same, same vague numbers. I figure there is really no way to tell if the FPR on the bike was original or not. Just to see, I took the original one apart to look inside (see pictures below).

The rubber diaphragm was soft and appeared to be intact. There was some wear on the valve seating area (never-mind the center scratch in the pic). On the vacuum side, you can see what looks like corrosion between the spring and the diaphragm seat. Besides that, I saw no blazing issues.

Now I have had the new one on for a couple of miles now, and I will say that there is a difference. Low idle to mid throttle transition seems to be much smoother and all around drivability seems much better. Less decel popping also.

So, would I say the one we took off was bad? Not completely, but it was not the best it could have been. Possibly the calibration had gotten weak or even possibly stuck open or not sealing totally.
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Sometimes it pays to be pro-active, esp. if you don't know the history or have maintenance records.
 

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Thanks for posting this. I have a new FPR on hand for my ‘03c but I’ve been procrastinating. Faulty symptoms or not, it’s time to do the install.
It's an easy change-out. 2 bolts hold it on, the inside one closest to the engine is a P.I.A., but with a 1/4" dr. wobble socket or u-joint or an offset mini wrench it is pretty quick. Remember to take the black disc off the backside that protects the O ring. Easier with the tank lifted from the rear for a little better clearance and eyeball view. Have a bunch of rags for spilling fuel from the old FPR and maybe a plug for the return fuel line from the tank to the FPR. It can be done as a 1 man job, but an extra pr. of hands is always good.
 

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Sometimes it pays to be pro-active, esp. if you don't know the history or have maintenance records.
Def. Great post. Any other things to change ?

I’ve only known my bike a few months & about to put it in for as big of a service as it needs. I’m going to ask that every fuel line & radiator hose is replaced & a thorough check on steering / wheel /swing arm bearings
 

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Def. Great post. Any other things to change ?

I’ve only known my bike a few months & about to put it in for as big of a service as it needs. I’m going to ask that every fuel line & radiator hose is replaced & a thorough check on steering / wheel /swing arm bearings
Def. Great post. Any other things to change ?

I’ve only known my bike a few months & about to put it in for as big of a service as it needs. I’m going to ask that every fuel line & radiator hose is replaced & a thorough check on steering / wheel /swing arm bearings
I bought my assortment of cooling lines, clamps, etc. from Honda a couple summers ago. Still have to change most of them. I want to be pro-active, but at 71 I also pro-crastinate a lot, lol. At the time, all the cooling hoses came to $162. I haven't replaced anything with the fuel system other than the FPR, and I put a Viton plastic disconnect on the fuel tank return line to make removing the tank easier. That was about 6 years ago, and it has endured that long with no leaks. I bought it for maybe $20 from Aerostich, a mostly high end bike/camping/ clothing co. from Minne. Change your shock bushings. A cheap and very good way to improve the over-all ride and handling. Upgrade all lights to LED. VTX Daymaker is around $160, great improvement over one of NDAna's LED elements. Going to LED makes the bike safer for visibility of being SEEN. It also reduces the output load on our electrical systems, as they are running close to the max in stock condition. I haven't done anything with my swing arm bearings, but as soon as I remove my w/s, I intend to try to snug up my steering neck bearings. It flops when up on the stand, but doesn't have any wobbles out on the road. I'm also running darkside so that changes the ride some. I'm no expert, but have owned my 1800C for over 10 years now, and I read a SH##-TON of stuff on these forums every day. I have met and hung out with some very knowledgable actual Honda mechanics, had their help on some things, and done a lot myself. Don't be afraid to tackle something. If you somehow mis-step, we are all here to help you get it right. And save your $$$$ in the process.
 
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