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Discussion Starter #1
quick background. recently installed drag bars and ran the wires through the bars. as others suggest, I spliced and soldered additional wire to make the pass through the bars.

on installing the switch housing on the left hand grip, I found that I have no low beam, but the high beam lights.
tried new bulb, no difference. I'm thinking the switch is bad but would like another opinion

the switch gets its power from a 20 gauge blue wire with white stripe. the other wires are solid white and solid blue.

the headlight connector has the solid blue, solid white and ground.

when I have the switch in the high beam position, and test continuity between the blue wire in the switch and the blue wire in the headlight connector, everything is good. no resistance so I know the wire is intact.

when I throw the switch to low beam, I have continuity in the white wire, testing between the switch and headlight connector. however, I also have continuity in the solid blue wire when the switch is in this position

I'm guessing the switch is bad as I believe it should be one or the other, not both. I think the white wire is the low beam.

If I've done this correctly, I would have thought that power would have run through both wires in the low beam position and either got light or blown a fuse. neither occurs.

any thoughts?
 

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Blue wire is high beam, White wire is low beam. Blue/white is power to the switch coming from the start button. If you remove the connector from the bulb and you check continuity from the connector to the switch, each wire should read continuity. That tells you that the wires are good. If you check the blue wire from the bulb connector to the BLUE/WHITE wire, you should read continuity only when the switch is in the High beam. If you check the white wire from the bulb connector to the BLUE/WHITE wire, you should read continuity only when the switch is in the low beam. Basically, to tell if the switch is good you need to check across the switch.
 

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Do what Mopar said first. If you turn out to not have continuity on the low beam circuit in the headlight, then check the continuity from the switch to the headlight. I'm betting one of your solder joints broke. :( Open the switch housing, set your meter to continuity, put one probe in the white connector in the headlight, touch the other to where the white wire is soldered to the switch. If you don't get continuity then your joint broke.. bad news, as I know how hard it is to do wiring through the bars.

If you have continuity on all the wires then test the switch.

1. disconnect the Blue 6p mini plug in the headlight
2. disconnect the Black 6p mini plug in the headlight
3. select High beam and test at the switch across blue/white to blue
4. select Low beam and test at the switch across blue/white to white.

You need to disconnect the 2 connectors to prevent a potential false reading
 

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Discussion Starter #5
did some checking this am

Thanks Guys.

I didn't see RobDogg's message before testing between the switch housing and headlight connector as per Mopar.

put one lead at the blue/white wire at the switch, the other at the solid blue at the headlamp connector. got conductivity (don't remember high or low beam. same for testing across the blue/white in the switch and the solid white at the headlight connector. both have conductivity.

however, I had not disconnected the blue and black connectors and will try that after work.

I don't think any of the soldered joints is the problem or the resistance within each wire (white at the switch and the lamp connector) would be at infinity.

this shouldn't be too hard to figure out.

snaking those wires through the bars was a BEAR. not sure I'd do this a second time.
 

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What you've done so far is correct and tells me that your solder joints are good (as you stated). You only need to disconnect those P6 connectors if you're goint to test the switch. But if you got continuity via the Blue/white to both the Blue and White wires in the headlight connector then your switch is probably good. (I would test again to make sure you lose continuity when you switch from High to Low and vice versa.)

Try using a test light or meter to check for current to the connector with the bike on. If you're getting current there then it's definitely either the tab in the connector or the bulb itself.
 
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