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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Newbie here with very little mechanical knowledge so bare with me!

I have purchased a custom VTX1300 and I am having problems getting it to run correctly.

When I first purchased it I noticed that I would need the choke pulled out slightly otherwise it would cough and splutter when riding it whether it was hot or cold. It seemed as if when accelerating it would bog down and need more acceleration to pull through.

I took it to the garage where my mechanic cleaned the carbs, a little seafoam and hoped and preyed it would be okay.

This didn't change anything so we ended up changing the spark plugs and spark caps which still didn't improve things.

After this we then increased the main jets. My mechanic rode out for 2-3 miles and had no problems so at this point I went back to get the bike. At first no problems at all it ran really well. I went through town at lower speeds and all of a sudden it started coughing a spluttering again but this time it was a lot worse than the first time (I didn't think I was going to make it back home!).

I took it back to my mechanic who rode it and broke down 8 times during the journey but luckily got back in the end.

It just so happens that my mechanics bike was doing something very similar and it turned out that his generator was going to earth when the engine got hot so he thought this could be the problem that my bike was having.

He sent the generator away and just as he thought they confirmed this was the case so it was rebuilt and sent back.

My mechanic fitted it back to the bike, took it on 2 long test rides and all was good, finally it was running well.

My father then collected the bike from my mechanic and got it home (3 miles) absolutely fine.

Since then I took it out myself and within 2 minutes it started doing the exact same thing again. I got my dad to test it out and he confirmed it was definitely still there.

We are all out of ideas on what to check next hence the reason I am writing this!

I would really appreciate any advice that can be given and what I should be looking to check next!

Thanks in advance.
 

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What year?? How many Miles or Km??
Your mechanic sucks. The OEM parts worked. Fix the problem..
Adding a larger main jet may improve performance if the air intake has been modified/changed.
>>Thinks your problem is the same as his. TESTING is required.
ONE carb.. When cold, pull the choke completely. When it starts at a very high idle, push it in some.
20 -30 seconds I am riding. I have a stop and then a turn or go straight, so I am about a 1/4 mile
and push the choke in. You may see 1/8" of the shaft, that is ok.

The 1300 has one particular failure, two of the most forward wires of the Ignition Control Module tend
to break. Examine closely at the ICM connector. The Green and the Black wire are the ones to inspect.
Intermittent connection with backfire, exhaust explosions are common. The wire could be broken
internally. Pull on them gently to see what happens. Loose battery cable connections are a problem.
Check vacuum hoses, they tend to crack on the interior wall. If you have a vacuum leak
the fuel flow could be affected.

There is a Step by Step 1300 Section that has info.
 

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Old Goat
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Am I correct in assuming what’s a stator over here is called a generator over yonder....good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What year?? How many Miles or Km??
Your mechanic sucks. The OEM parts worked. Fix the problem..
Adding a larger main jet may improve performance if the air intake has been modified/changed.

ONE carb.. When cold, pull the choke completely. When it starts at a very high idle, push it in some.
20 -30 seconds I am riding. I have a stop and then a turn or go straight, so I am about a 1/4 mile
and push the choke in. You may see 1/8" of the shaft, that is ok.

The 1300 has one particular failure, two of the most forward wires of the Ignition Control Module tend
to break. Examine closely at the ICM connector. The Green and the Black wire are the ones to inspect.
Intermittent connection with backfire, exhaust explosions are common. The wire could be broken
internally. Pull on them gently to see what happens. Loose battery cable connections are a problem.
Check vacuum hoses, they tend to crack on the interior wall. If you have a vacuum leak
the fuel flow could be affected.

There is a Step by Step 1300 Section that has info.
Thanks for your comments.

It sounds to me you are thinking something electrical more than anything and that is what we are concluding over here. I will check the green and black wires on the ICM connector tomorrow along with the battery cable connections. I don't think that this VTX has vacuum hoses but I will check tomorrow.

I will update you tomorrow once I have had a look!

Thanks once again.
 

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Thanks for your comments.
It sounds to me you are thinking something electrical more than anything and that is what we are concluding over here. I will check the green and black wires on the ICM connector tomorrow along with the battery cable connections. I don't think that this VTX has vacuum hoses but I will check tomorrow. I will update you tomorrow once I have had a look!
Thanks once again.
At minimum OEM vacuum source at intake manifold, a "T" one hose to carb "Air cut off" valve and a hose to vacuum controlled petcock. The full suite also included "Pulsed Air Injection" aka PAIR which most remove if they removed
OEM exhaust..

California model has another 15 feet of hose and valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
At minimum OEM vacuum source at intake manifold, a "T" one hose to carb "Air cut off" valve and a hose to vacuum controlled petcock. The full suite also included "Pulsed Air Injection" aka PAIR which most remove if they removed
OEM exhaust..

California model has another 15 feet of hose and valves.
From what I'm told the bike has a Pingel Petcock installed so don’t think it’s vacuum operated.
 

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ICM broken wires.
 

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You can see where they broke, BUT sometimes the insulation was intact.
Is the trip meter resetting to zero or speedo quit working???
Check voltage at the battery to ground and at the 10 amp fuses.
Provide static voltage and voltage with engine running. About 14 volts expected at the battery
and at the fuses. Check both sides of the fuse to Ground.
Check fuel flow from petcock.

Any aftermarket parts/modifications??? What is the mileage???
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You can see where they broke, BUT sometimes the insulation was intact.
Is the trip meter resetting to zero or speedo quit working???
Check voltage at the battery to ground and at the 10 amp fuses.
Provide static voltage and voltage with engine running. About 14 volts expected at the battery
and at the fuses. Check both sides of the fuse to Ground.
Check fuel flow from petcock.

Any aftermarket parts/modifications??? What is the mileage???
The trip meter and speedo are fine.

It does have an aftermarket Vance&Hines exhaust and a spike intake.

When I got the bike the speedo wasn't working so I have changed it and it now reads 12k miles.

The bike is a 2004
 

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We had a problem a few weeks back, when rider put his foot on crash bar pegs, engine would lose performance.
I jumped on it figuring some wiring was shorting to ground or going open..
Turned out it was air flow disruption to the spike intake.
Many strange things in life.

Stay with it.. Grab, push/pull on the harness.
Ignition, Starter fuse > Black wire goes to ICM and to Kill Switch.
Black/White wire from IGN switch puts +12v onto coils.
Check IGN coils low voltage wiring.
ICM puts out a Ground to energize the Ign coils.

If I had a problem I would connect a led to a specific location and see if it lost +12v battery (14v at charge)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We had a problem a few weeks back, when rider put his foot on crash bar pegs, engine would lose performance.
I jumped on it figuring some wiring was shorting to ground or going open..
Turned out it was air flow disruption to the spike intake.
Many strange things in life.

Stay with it.. Grab, push/pull on the harness.
Ignition, Starter fuse > Black wire goes to ICM and to Kill Switch.
Black/White wire from IGN switch puts +12v onto coils.
Check IGN coils low voltage wiring.
ICM puts out a Ground to energize the Ign coils.

If I had a problem I would connect a led to a specific location and see if it lost +12v battery (14v at charge)
173348

Should there be power going directly to the green forward cable when the ignition is on? There is power to the black cable but nothing to the green. Is this correct?
 

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Green is Ground... Two Green wires.
Refer back to "1300 ICM Connector" and you will see it is connected to the IPG.
IPG = Ignition Pulse Generator puts out voltage when the engine is running.
It also has a resistance of 192 ohms between Green--White/Blue (second color is a stripe).
<iframe width="547" height="410" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Green is Ground... Two Green wires.
Refer back to "1300 ICM Connector" and you will see it is connected to the IPG.
IPG = Ignition Pulse Generator puts out voltage when the engine is running.
It also has a resistance of 192 ohms between Green--White/Blue (second color is a stripe).
<iframe width="547" height="410" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
just put the ICM and the battery back on, went to start it and it kept turning over but just won’t start. stinks of fuel so that’s obviously flowing but checked one of the spark plugs and doesn’t seem to have any spark at all. As I mentioned I’m no mechanic and have very little if any mechanical knowledge but it seems to me everything is leading towards the ICM..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you measure the resistance to the IPG???

I am not aware of any ICM failures.
The wiring is always suspect for any issue with no spark.
Unfortunately I haven’t got a clue how to check any of that as I’m not an electrician.

I just think it’s weird how I got it started, rode it to my dads (it ran like a bag of nails), then took the ICM out, checked the battery put it back together and then it doesn’t start.
 

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You probably pulled the broken wire apart. You do not have to be an electrician. You buy a test meter, learn how to use it. Give that Green wire and the black a tug. The insulation will shrink to a smaller OD when there is no wire in the break area.. If you bend a wire gently where copper is and compare that to where a break is there is a difference. It will be right next to the connector body also..
 
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