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I was running on 2 cylinders for a while before I found the grounded out wires to the rear coil under the frame...fwiw
 

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S'ok. I was definitely referring to the rear plugs which were not firing bc the wires to the coil had grounded out under the frame. We had changed the plugs, confirmed the coils were good on another bike, and and checked the connections to the ECU. We were at our wits ends re: the performance issue and the plugs not firing, until one of the guys discovered the two wires to the rear coil had grounded out.
 

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Hi guys,

Newbie here with very little mechanical knowledge so bare with me!

I have purchased a custom VTX1300 and I am having problems getting it to run correctly.

When I first purchased it I noticed that I would need the choke pulled out slightly otherwise it would cough and splutter when riding it whether it was hot or cold. It seemed as if when accelerating it would bog down and need more acceleration to pull through.

I took it to the garage where my mechanic cleaned the carbs, a little seafoam and hoped and preyed it would be okay.

This didn't change anything so we ended up changing the spark plugs and spark caps which still didn't improve things.

After this we then increased the main jets. My mechanic rode out for 2-3 miles and had no problems so at this point I went back to get the bike. At first no problems at all it ran really well. I went through town at lower speeds and all of a sudden it started coughing a spluttering again but this time it was a lot worse than the first time (I didn't think I was going to make it back home!).

I took it back to my mechanic who rode it and broke down 8 times during the journey but luckily got back in the end.

It just so happens that my mechanics bike was doing something very similar and it turned out that his generator was going to earth when the engine got hot so he thought this could be the problem that my bike was having.

He sent the generator away and just as he thought they confirmed this was the case so it was rebuilt and sent back.

My mechanic fitted it back to the bike, took it on 2 long test rides and all was good, finally it was running well.

My father then collected the bike from my mechanic and got it home (3 miles) absolutely fine.

Since then I took it out myself and within 2 minutes it started doing the exact same thing again. I got my dad to test it out and he confirmed it was definitely still there.

We are all out of ideas on what to check next hence the reason I am writing this!

I would really appreciate any advice that can be given and what I should be looking to check next!

Thanks in advance.
You must be going out of your mind like I was after thinking the problem was fixed and your in the middle of nowhere with this happening. This sounds the same as my problem and it ended up Only being bare wires coming off the battery that were not very noticeable. I hope this helps.
 

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S'ok. I was definitely referring to the rear plugs which were not firing bc the wires to the coil had grounded out under the frame. We had changed the plugs, confirmed the coils were good on another bike, and and checked the connections to the ECU. We were at our wits ends re: the performance issue and the plugs not firing, until one of the guys discovered the two wires to the rear coil had grounded out.
I can believe the Yellow/Blue shorted to ground but not the Black/White wire that is +12 volts.
It would have popped the Ignition fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I can believe the Yellow/Blue shorted to ground but not the Black/White wire that is +12 volts.
It would have popped the Ignition fuse.
So I had an electronics guy with 30 years + experience look at the bike today. He went through and tested every wire on the bike and couldn’t find anything wrong. It was just on another forum I saw that another guy wasn’t getting a spark and it turned out for him his battery was faulty and only firing about 10 volts. I only changed this battery a couple months back and it had been absolutely fine but we decided to take it off and hook up his van battery with jump leads. We turned the bike over and boom we had a spark again. I’ve ordered another battery (Motobatt MBYZ16HD Premium) and hopefully this is going to have been the problem all along. Fingers crossed but if it isn’t this then it surely has to be the regulator...? Any thoughts again are much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
UPDATE:

Good news and bad news...

The new battery is now in and the bike starts and runs again so that is the good news. I am only assuming that it was the battery all along as to why we weren't getting spark.

The bad news is that at cruising speeds it still backfires, bangs, pops and splutters just as it was.

At tick over the bike runs fine and at full throttle it is running fine.

I did try another ECU on the bike from another VTX 1300 but this made no difference.

Sounds to me like a fueling issue but please any advice again is much appreciated!!
 

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If it is good at full throttle (maximum fuel consumption) then fuel should not be an issue.
Slide valve functioning normally??
While engine running and tugging on the ICM wires any changes??
Ignition Coil wire terminals on tight? Wires connected good???
 

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Discussion Starter #33
If it is good at full throttle (maximum fuel consumption) then fuel should not be an issue.
Slide valve functioning normally??
While engine running and tugging on the ICM wires any changes??
Ignition Coil wire terminals on tight? Wires connected good???
Finally had a spare minute to have a quick go on it today. I checked the ICM wires again and all seemed fine, the electrician I had come out seems to think all wires are absolutely fine.
I have booked it in to get it on a dyne for next month and get the air fuel looked into as I think this is the problem.
It has a spike air filter with a BUBS exhaust so I can only assume this is the problem.

I now have another issue which I will post separately to this...
 
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