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Discussion Starter #1
So I did searched but couldn’t find anything.

Every time I push the horn button the 10 amp fuse blows. The fuse also runs the turn signals and brake light.
The horn worked last week.
2 days ago I rode through heavy rain for about an hour.
Today I installed engine guards (that’s another story).
To install the engine guards, I had to unbold the horn and let it hang down until it was time to bolt it back in place.
During the installation of the guards, both crappy bolts up to broke off so I drilled them out and just used a 2.5” bolt and nylon lock washer instead.
I’m pretty sure I didn’t hit a wire when I was drilling.
I’m not mechanically inclined so I’ll have to drop it off at the dealer tomorrow I guess.

Any Thoughts?
I did remove the contacts from the horn and clean them and add some grease.
I also sprayed some seafoam deep creep into the horn button and signals just in case but fuse still blows.

Thanks
Greg
 

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Disconnect the horn wires, see what happens.
 

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Short in the horn button or wiring that runs between switch to the horn.

Don't let it drive you more that $72 + shipping crazy though, because that's how much the complete LH Switch housing including horn wiring cost new at Partzilla. Although installation would be a PITA.
 

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I looked at my wiring, the wires are pretty tight fit at the top radiator bracket and the left down tube.
One Black wire from the horn goes to a Black 6 pin connector in the headlight bucket.
This wire will be HOT when the horn switch is operated.
The switch is not generally a problem.

Drilling is a dangerous situation, usually you are pushing hard and when it goes thru you better have clearance.
Once in awhile I will cut a piece of tubing as a drill depth control device.
I suspect your activity caused it. Either crimped and shorted by the radiator bracket, guards or drill activity.
Take the guards off. Remove horn bracket. INSPECT the wires.
If you see wires or damage figure out how to provide more cable clearance at the pinch point.
I am going to upload a picture.

Did you break the original bolts at the top radiator bracket?
The radiator floats on rubber bushings. If they get jammed up tight radiator failure may take place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I looked at my wiring, the wires are pretty tight fit at the top radiator bracket and the left down tube.
One Black wire from the horn goes to a Black 6 pin connector in the headlight bucket.
This wire will be HOT when the horn switch is operated.
The switch is not generally a problem.

Drilling is a dangerous situation, usually you are pushing hard and when it goes thru you better have clearance.
Once in awhile I will cut a piece of tubing as a drill depth control device.
I suspect your activity caused it. Either crimped and shorted by the radiator bracket, guards or drill activity.
Take the guards off. Remove horn bracket. INSPECT the wires.
If you see wires or damage figure out how to provide more cable clearance at the pinch point.
I am going to upload a picture.

Did you break the original bolts at the top radiator bracket?
The radiator floats on rubber bushings. If they get jammed up tight radiator failure may take place.
Yes, the new engine guard came with longer bolts and spacers to go through the rubber bushings. The longer bolts were soft metal and both broke off as soon as I tried to tighten them up.
In your picture, above your arrow........is that the half moon type metal shroud???? I can see that that could very well be a pinch point.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
Problem Fixed

Thanks to everyone for your replies.
Hans&Feet.......you were right and your picture really helped.
As soon as I relieved the pressure as indicated in your picture, the horn works perfect. While I had the horn loose I took the opportunity to adjust the sound with the philips screw on the back of the horn and now it’s louder than before.
Thanks again
Greg
 
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