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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It happened the other day, my Led charge indicator went off.
A few hours later I checked connectors, they looked good.
Then I checked stator voltage it was good, 17 AC volts on each phase at idle.
DC charging voltage was 14.4 VDC.

Today I had a good voltage indicator on my LED charge indicator for the first 7 miles.
Then I noticed it was off. Headed back to the house.
Having a LED headlight is nice with the low current draw.
Not charging at the battery. No voltage from the Stator.

It looks like charred insulation on the stator and charred wiring that splices to the stator.
Looks like something that a "shorting" rectifier/regulator would do...
104k miles and now at 190,763 miles.

The same stator when installed new in 2011.
 

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Hans,


You are the trail blazer when it comes to probable preventive replacement parts at given mileages.



I replaced my rectifier/regulator at 100K since you had trouble at about that many miles. I have a few to go before 190K. However, I will be keeping that number in my mind for another rectifier/regulator, plus probably a stator replacement.


Back before I hit the 100,000 mark you shared with me the few parts you had fail or give you trouble up to that point. I appreciated the info. I took care of them all before failure. You saved me a lot of trouble out on the road far, far from home and in some cases far from civilization.



Keep us up to date on any new issues as our X's age along with us.



Thank you.
 

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Sorry to see this happen to you.

Thanks for posting as you tackle this.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have ordered the Shindengen SH775 R/R which is a series regulator, it will reduce stator current flow to regulate the battery voltage.

The OEM and the Mosfet unit I had "Shorted" the stator output to control battery voltage.

I ordered a Ricks Motorsport stator.
 

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Mosfet unit I had "Shorted" the stator output to control battery voltage.

.
This latest unit was a mosfet as well?

And the first time was the original?

I may do an upgrade before it happens to me.:smile2:
 

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Thanks for posting Hans and keeping us informed about your replacement choices. Great info which is helpful for the rest of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OEM - Standard transistors and diodes have .7 voltage drop, they generate heat.

MOSFET was the second R/R.
I measured as much as 22 AC amps on a stator leg with the MOSFET.
MOSFET has very low resistance when turned On, minimal heat but it throws a bigger short on the stator which has to absorb the heat.

New series unit probably uses a digital signal to control ON time for charging voltage control.

If you ever put a DMM on the stator leads with a shunting/shorting, the voltage is bouncing.
Many times in single digit voltage range, shunting/shorting for milliseconds.

My "Charge Indicator" is a resistor, a Yellow Led, and a 12v zener diode.
It turns on at about 13.5 volts. It is a low cost voltage monitor.

One person omitted the resistor and I was baffled that the led did not go up in smoke.
Further discussion - found out he used a green Led which is good to about 4 volts + 12v zener = 16 volts
That means 2 components can work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The Stator and R/R arrived yesterday.

The Stator was incomplete.
The 3 phase coil ends were not connected to the three 16" - 20" of wire that go up to the connector.
A call to Rick's, an email with a picture, they will ship another one.
Looks like epoxy coating on the new stator.

The new R/R was briefly tested one phase at a time with a battery connected.
I had a 12v lamp as a series resistor/visual indicator on the stator side.
Initially bright the lamp dimmed as the battery got to full charge at 14.4 volts.
I like this.
 

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My "Charge Indicator" is a resistor, a Yellow Led, and a 12v zener diode.
It turns on at about 13.5 volts. It is a low cost voltage monitor.
Nice.
I am thinking about adding a no-charge indicator to my VTX. Not a charge indicator. The opposite. No-charge. I'll probably get a yellow light with the lightning-bolt symbol and drive it via a 13V Zener. I don't want a light in my face when riding. I want it to be a warning light.

Been needing the kick in the pants to start on my "remote indicator panel" for a while. Might be the right time! :)
Thanks for the kick.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice.
I am thinking about adding a no-charge indicator to my VTX. Not a charge indicator. The opposite. No-charge. I'll probably get a yellow light with the lightning-bolt symbol and drive it via a 13V Zener. I don't want a light in my face when riding. I want it to be a warning light.

Been needing the kick in the pants to start on my "remote indicator panel" for a while. Might be the right time! :)
Thanks for the kick.
First dozen rides I looked at it often, not so much now. I scan it occasionally. Middle of HB clamp area does not fall in normal view.
I can see when TS lights flash on because Led goes dim. Ditto for brake light check.
 

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First dozen rides I looked at it often, not so much now. I scan it occasionally.
Right.
That's why I don't want any lights lit to indicate positive a-ok status. Warning/malfunction lights should be in peripheral view and should not be distracting. They should only come on when the operator needs to be notified of a problem. That way, it is easy to detect even if not right in front of the operator's face.
I will go stare at fleaBay at some LED indicators with symbols now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
80 miles of riding today.
Less ripple at idle from my direct connect leds(no dc converter/led driver)


5/23/2019
I pulled 66ft 8in copper wire off of one phase with 6 pole pieces.
37 turns per pole piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Added a voltmeter but cut a lead in the led voltage monitor.
Further investigation conducted.
1. Top of LCVM was trimmed to allow voltmeter access.
2. Dremel tool was used.
3. Searching for removed material, I found two short wires, body of the 12v zener diode.
4. Chit happens...
 

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Who put the new stator in?
Also, a weak or marginal battery, or loose connections, can over-drive a regulator to where the contacts become welded together, and burn out the stator. In some cases, some LED headlights need a resistor in the circuit. Just a few suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Who put the new stator in?
Also, a weak or marginal battery, or loose connections, can over-drive a regulator to where the contacts become welded together, and burn out the stator. In some cases, some LED headlights need a resistor in the circuit. Just a few suggestions.
I put the stator in. And one in 2011.

Bob - Regulators (R/R)have been solid state for many years.
Every VTX OEM R/R has been solid state.
The problem is the method of voltage regulation they used, which happens to "short" the stator to Ground to control charging voltage.

Fortunately things have changed and now they have a "Series" R/R that "Unloads" the stator if current demand at the +12v reduces.
 

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