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Discussion Starter #1
How can I go about reforming a 1300 R shifter into a straight bar? I don’t care about the plating.

Back in 2013, I followed RoadDawg’s instructions to install a 1300 R shifter on my 2003 1800 C. It worked great for years.

Last year, I replaced the OEM pegs with footboards, and sadly, the heel-toe mod no longer works so well. I’m hoping you guys can pull me through this.

Looking at the pic, you can see where the the outward bend on the shifter’s heel arm impacts the footboard bracket.

If I bolt the shifter up tight, it gets stuck with every upshift and I have to tap it loose. It’s pretty annoying.

It works fine if I leave the pivot bolt pretty loose, but I’m worried about dropping the bolt on a long ride. The shifter is then a little floppy, but I’ve lived with it thus far.

I don’t care about the finish - if the plating cracks or blues, I’ll have it powder-coated to match the rims.

Thanks :)

173392
 

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Old Goat
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Is there a bolt under the green arrow holding the board on...if not can u trim the bracket...good luck

also u can change the pivot on the shift arm at the splined shaft on the tyranny...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there a bolt under the green arrow holding the board on...if not can u trim the bracket...good luckalso u can change the pivot on the shift arm at the splined shaft on the tyranny...
Thanks, man - I think it will be more difficult to cut the board bracket, it’s very thick plate.
 

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Old Goat
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Thanks, man - I think it will be more difficult to cut the board bracket, it’s very thick plate.
I guess its all in how folks look at things...I see the bracket as the easy fix,,My concern would be any attempt to bend/heat the shifter Could weaken and cause failure...your bike,your rulz...good luck
Machine shop got tools to make easy work of that bracket..
 

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Thanks, man - I think it will be more difficult to cut the board bracket, it’s very thick plate.
He ....TennX.....asked if there was a bolt under the green arrow. :cool:

So am I.:)

Do you have a grinder ? :)

This is what RD posted back when.....:)

roaddg.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I have a grinder. There is not a bolt near the area in question.
 

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Old Goat
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He ....TennX.....asked if there was a bolt under the green arrow. :cool:

So am I.:)

Do you have a grinder ? :)

This is what RD posted back when.....:)

View attachment 173395
Winner,winner ...chicken dinner.....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

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Yeah, if you have a grinder or an angle grinder, you can do it by removing the plate and just grind it down. Doesn't sound like you need to take off much. If it all works put some paint on where you took material off and you're done.

I see making the end of that plate thinner, not just grinding the end off. I have done this sort of thing many times. Some times the wrong combination of parts requires a bit of custom fitting.
 

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How can I go about reforming a 1300 R shifter into a straight bar? I don’t care about the plating.

Back in 2013, I followed RoadDawg’s instructions to install a 1300 R shifter on my 2003 1800 C. It worked great for years.

Last year, I replaced the OEM pegs with footboards, and sadly, the heel-toe mod no longer works so well. I’m hoping you guys can pull me through this.

Looking at the pic, you can see where the the outward bend on the shifter’s heel arm impacts the footboard bracket.

If I bolt the shifter up tight, it gets stuck with every upshift and I have to tap it loose. It’s pretty annoying.

It works fine if I leave the pivot bolt pretty loose, but I’m worried about dropping the bolt on a long ride. The shifter is then a little floppy, but I’ve lived with it thus far.

I don’t care about the finish - if the plating cracks or blues, I’ll have it powder-coated to match the rims.

Thanks :)

View attachment 173392
Is that one of those Kuryakyn decorative engine case covers stuck on there with VHB tape???? (See white arrow in pic below)

If it is, looks like you could remove it, then straighten out the heel part of the shift lever (looks like it's been bent)
and you'd be good to go...

173401
 

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Hope you didn't start grinding-off the 1/4" floorboard mounting plate, hope you saw this message.

Just remove that aftermarket chrome decoration on the side of the engine case. If you need advice how to remove vhb tape just ask.
 

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Looks like you could take some of that bend out at the arrow.
If the heel part gets too close to cover a small removal of angle.
Two pieces of wood to protect chrome in a vise or possibly with a hammer blow.
 

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Old Goat
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13 post u would think your working on the Falcon X...:)... good luck
 

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How can I go about reforming a 1300 R shifter into a straight bar? I don’t care about the plating.

Back in 2013, I followed RoadDawg’s instructions to install a 1300 R shifter on my 2003 1800 C. It worked great for years.

Last year, I replaced the OEM pegs with footboards, and sadly, the heel-toe mod no longer works so well. I’m hoping you guys can pull me through this.

Looking at the pic, you can see where the the outward bend on the shifter’s heel arm impacts the footboard bracket.

If I bolt the shifter up tight, it gets stuck with every upshift and I have to tap it loose. It’s pretty annoying.

It works fine if I leave the pivot bolt pretty loose, but I’m worried about dropping the bolt on a long ride. The shifter is then a little floppy, but I’ve lived with it thus far.

I don’t care about the finish - if the plating cracks or blues, I’ll have it powder-coated to match the rims.

Thanks :)

View attachment 173392
I guess some people want to cover-up the "Honda" name on the left crankcase cover so badly that they'll install a plastic chrome medallion (kury) over it THEN bend the shift lever and modify the floorboard mounting plate to accommodate it!!

Just get rid of the plastic decoration!! Then fix or replace the shift pedal!!

173426


 
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