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Discussion Starter #1
I've been wanting some tunes on my bike for quite a while, particularly for the long rides. I ended up purchasing the Pyle PLMCA60 speaker kit that comes with an amplifier, two 3" metal chromed speakers and a metal chromed USB port for charging an iPod or cell phone. The kit included parts to easily install on Harley motorcycles, so there were parts in the kit I didn't use. In case it's useful to anyone else here, this can work as a how-to.


=== Required Materials ===

  • (1) Pyle PLMCA60
  • (2) Kuryaken 7/8" - 1" P Claim (SKU #334199)
  • (1) 8mm - 1.25 Tap
  • (2) 8mm - 1.25 20mm Bolts/Screws
  • (2) 8mm Lock Washers
  • Soldering Gun/Iron
  • Heat Shrink Tubing
  • (2) vampire electrical crimp connectors
  • (2) Fuse Holders
  • (2) 7.5A fuses, compatible with above fuse holders
  • (6") 1/2" Wire Loom
  • (1) 5/16" x 1" Self-Tapping Sheet Metal Screw
  • (1) 1/4" x 1" Self-Tapping Sheet Metal Screw
  • (1) Zip Tie with mounting/support hole

=== Pull Apart ===
The first thing I had to do was pull my bike apart. This included the side covers, seat, and fuel tank. The exposes all the needed bits to install and splice all the wiring without making your bike look like a hack job.


1) Seat
The seat comes off the bike with two allen screws on the left and right, facing the rear of the bike. I believe they require a 6mm allen wrench. If you've got a passenger pad, it may be required to also remove the hex nut on the rear fender, which is a 10mm nut. The seat(s) the lift off from the rear. There's a tab on the front of the rider seat that wedges into the frame.


2) Side Covers
The side covers are held on with plastic or metal posts on the side covers which are pressed into holes with rubber bushings. Both side covers should pull of with ease.


3) Dashboard (on-tank)
In order to remove the tank, you must disconnect the on-tank dashboard. There are 9 5mm allen screws holding the dash to the tank; remove them all. Remove the gas cap, lift up on the dash panel, and push the entire piece forward. The dash should come free. I simply covered mine and layer it over the turn signal on the right side.


4) Fuel Tank
This is going to vary from one bike to the next. I have a 2003 VTX1800 which is fuel injected. The fuel pump on this bike is in the tank. Be smart and try to do this with as empty a tank as possible because it's not feasible to drain the tank on these models. I, unfortunately, tackled this with a full 4.6 gallons of gasoline, which made for a messy operation.


To remove the tank, there is a single bolt at the point where the rider seat wedges into the frame. The bolt goes in from either side, with a nut on the opposite side. Remove the nut with a 10mm wrench. You'll likely need another 10mm wrench on the opposite side to hold things. The bolt is surrounded by rubber bushing to cancel out some of the vibration, so it can move freely.


Once the rear bolt is removed, the tank can be lifted from the rear. Under the tank are three hoses, all on the left side. There is a small hose without any clamps that can be simply removed without risking leaking any fuel. The second hose is held in place with a brass fitting. This is a 17mm nut. This will leak a small amount of fuel when removed. There is a washer, so be careful not to lose it when taking this apart. I believe I had about a half cup of gasoline drain from this hose before it stopped.


The last of the three hoses is near the top of the fuel pump. There is a small clamp holding this hose to the nozzle. I found it easiest to have someone hold the tank up while I used a vice-grip to release the clamp and slide it backward. With a little coaxing, the hose comes off. This nozzle leaked the most gasoline. I estimate I lost nearly a half gallon throughout the move from my bike to the floor.


Last, there is a small electrical connection that goes from the fuel pump to a connector about 6 inches in front of the rider seat, just below the tank. There is a small metal tab holding the wire in place, which pries up easily (be careful not to break it off). Disconnect this wire from the connector.


The tank comes free by lifting from the rear, and then slowly rocking from left to right. There are two U-shaped brackets, one on the left, the other on the right, which slide over two rubber stoppers. These support the tank. Rocking left to right and slowly pulling backwards frees the tank.


=== USB Port Installation ===
I felt the best place for the USB charging port was on the left side of the bike, just below the tank. Up near the top of the frame, there is a welded gusset that boxes out the frame. To attach my USB charging port, I chose to drill a 17/64" hole and tap that with the 8mm-1.25. The allowed me to use the longer chromed allen screw that came with the audio system. The parts lists claimed this screw was to attach the amplifier to the bike.


Before attaching the charging port, feed the wires from the left side, through the frame, below the gusset plate, to the right side. All of my wire followed the wire harness for the headlights and dashboard. Attach the USB charging port.


IMG_0671.jpg


=== Amplifier Installation ===
I installed my amplifier under the bike, just in front of the rear tire. This also happens to be where the voltage regulator is mounted. To attach the amplifier to the bike, I used a self-tapping 5/16" sheet metal screw. The amplifier is mounted with the mounting hole toward the left side of the bike, and the wiring harness toward the right. I used another self-tapping 1/4" screw and a zip tie with a mounting hole to support the wire. This also works to stabilize the amplifier.


Once mounted, the wiring for the amplifier goes up into the frame and should come out near the main fuse box. I had to thread things in and out a few times before I was able to route the harness up under the seat, in front of the battery box.

IMG_0669.jpg


=== Speaker Installation ===
Attach the Kuryaken P clamps (remove the 7/8" sizing bushing that's included) to the handle bars. These clamps, in addition to the mounting hole for the speaker, have an additional set screw to aid in holding the clamp in place. I put mine about 1" up the bar from the first bend from the risers. Using the lock washer and the 20mm 8-1.25mm bolts, attach each speaker to a P-clamp. Route the wires with the rest of the handle bar wiring. The Pyle audio system came with some small black zip ties that I found suitable to help hold the speaker wires in place. Route both speaker wires to the right side of the bike, in front of the frame.


My speaker wires were too short to reach the harness for the amplifier. I ended up extending the wires by cutting them off at about 6" from the end, and soldering/heat-shrinking for protection and a solid connection. You need the end of the speaker wires, has they have retention clips for insertion into the female side of the harness. After extending the speaker wires, both the speaker wires and the USB charging port wires should be routed neatly along the right side of the frame to where the other wire harness routes under the frame to the seat. Don't route these under the seat yet, as we'll be using the wire loom here to protect the wiring from vibration and heat later.



=== Audio Input Routing ===
From the amplifier, there is a 1/8" stereo input along with the harness. At this time, route that wire under the frame and with the speaker wires/USB charging wires to the front of the bike. In my case, I was able to reach the triple tree without difficulty, with about 8" of slack.


=== Wire Routing ===
You can now neaten up the routing, and use additional zip ties to hold your wire in place. I caution against attaching your wire to the brake lines. Instead, route with the other electrical.


Once your wiring is close to tight, feed it into the wire loom. There should be enough loom to make it under the frame and into the cavity under the rider seat. This is used to protect the wire from vibration and engine heat. I routed mine behind the brake line for better protection and a cleaner look.


=== Making All the Connections ===
This is where things are a little tricky. For our amplifier, I wanted mine to only operate when the key switch was on. To achieve this, I used one of the vampire electrical crimp connections at the fuse box and connected it to the Red with black-stripe near the headlight fuse. All of the Red with black stripe (R/Bl) wires here are on a collective 30A fuse and are keyed with the ignition switch. I installed one of my in-line fuse modules here with a 7.5A fuse. This was connected to the red (+12V) for the amplifier.


For the USB charging port, I wanted the port to be always-hot. For this, I went to the left side of the bike near the starter solenoid. There you will find a small two-wire electrical connect with a solid red ®, and a red with white stripe (R/W) pair. Both of these are always hot. I used a second vampire connection and the second in-line fuse. I used another 7.5A fuse, though a smaller, 2A or 3A would suffice. This gets connected to the USB charging ports red (+12V) wire.


To ground both circuits, I used a single 1/4" 10-12Ga eyelet crimp connector. I inserted two 16Ga wires before crimping. This eyelet gets attached to the grounding screw immediately in front of the right-hand front side of the batter box. This is near with the brake equalization block is.


IMG_0687.jpg
(picture is sideways, front of bike is toward left)


Last, you should simply need to push the electrical friction clips into the female side of the amplifier harness and connect the two harnesses together. Neatly bundle your wires and try to fit them so they do not overlap the frame tubing. Your rider seat sits on top of this tubing, and will crush/ground your wires.


DO NOT OMIT THE FUSES FOR THESE TWO CIRCUITS. The time you think you're saving isn't worth it. It's easier to replace a fuse or two than fix a damaged harness due to over-current conditions, or worse, a fire.


=== Testing ===
Plug an iPod, MP3 player, or something, into the 1/8" input plug at the front of your bike. Turn the ignition switch on. You should be able to hear some audio. Congratulations! You've got a working speaker setup!


=== Re-assembly ===
The bike goes back together in the reverse order it came apart. The fuel tank is the biggest pain. As you put things back, make sure you're not pinching any wires.


=== Final Thoughts ===
I'm still looking for a good iPod mount, and I'd like to find a set of large-button iPod controls. I've found it difficult to control my iPod while riding, and just generally avoid it. The volume control that came with my setup was crap and just didn't work, which is why it's not included in this how-to. I'll admit the speakers aren't super high-quality, but they're not bad, and I won't notice the difference at 70MPH anyhow.

IMG_0696.jpg

I have a bunch more pictures, but the forum will only allow me to attach 5.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a stand alone unit that came with the speakers and amplifier.

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Discussion Starter #5
They claim 600 Watts.

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