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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gents,
Dug up this thread in search for an answer and this thread is very similar to my problem.
2006 VTX 1300C. Many years ago in an attempt to add a photo resistor as an auto-dimmer for the overly-bright blue high beam indicator, I smoked the LED. “Oh sh*t”, but no other damage or indicators went out. So I put it all back together and rode on without any other issues. That blue high beam indicator LED was the only squawk on the bike for years.
Fast forward to now and I finally got around to it and sourced the blue LED, soldered it in and reassembled cluster. Now, only that blue LED high beam indicator and the cluster backlighting LEDs (red) work. The L. Turn, Coolant, Neutral, Oil Press, and R. Turn are all inop. WTF? All brake lights and turn signals work…only these five “big” LED indicators are now inop.
I have confirmed all pins in the two green connectors are OK. The Clymer manual wiring schematic indicates the high beam indicator and the panel backlights are on different green plugs, so that eliminates a single plug problem. If it was a grounding problem…no lights would work. I can’t imagine that an unsolder/solder of the one LED would wipe out all 5 other “big” LEDs, yet the Speedo, ODO, and backlit LEDs still work. All fuses are good.

Does anybody have a guess/clue/idea?
 

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You could have put a dab of paint on top of the led or put some cotton over it.
The safe method.
Battery or Ground could be missing.
You have to see what one of the two is missing or shorted.
The HB led has +12v (high beam) and Ground. Maybe the Ground shorted a (+) connection.
A better picture of the speedo leds schematic.
A bit of solder could be connected to an adjoining pc trace.
Examine carefully. Take high quality pix or use a magnifying glass.
Added picture in Howto Step by Step 1300

 

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Do you have a way to test the cluster on a bench? Do you have good wires to attach and provide signals to test out the LEDs?
And I already assume that you don't mind since you did the photo resistor mod years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey all. I finally resurrected this project but still frustrated and sweating in the heat out in garage. No change yet.
It appears both green plugs are OK because I get the cluster backlight LEDs (7) and the high beam LED with just one of the plugs (5 wire plug set) and also I get the odometer & speedo needle to come alive with the other plugs (6 wire plug set).
I know Hans has stated there may be a short across another PCB trace due to the soldering in of the new high beam blue LED (which is the only one of the big six that now works). As stated before, I do not see anything amiss with the PCB.

Does anyone have a clue what could have knocked out the other 5 LEDs?

If not, where is the best source for this instrument cluster? If replaced, is there any way to preserve the odometer data?
 

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Look at the board, do you see resistors connected to leds not illuminating?
What is missing?? Battery or Ground.
Is there an island/pod with battery or ground missing???

Left TS IND > +12v from TS, component led requires a resistor and Ground.
Coolant Temp > gets +12v from the same place as the backlights (Bl/Br wire) plus a resistor in series with led, switch closed gives it the Ground.
Neutral indicator get same backlight +12v with led and a resistor, ground from switch.
Oil pressure Indicator gets +12v back lighting power with led and resistor to OPS.
Right turn Ind gets +12v from TS circuit. Resistor and Led to a Ground.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Hans&Feet, thank you for all the info. Here are some photos of the PCB and the new blue high beam LED. The legs of the new diode are between the letters R52 and C51 on the PCB. To the left in the wider view is the oil pressure LED which is not working.
 

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How about more pixels than 640x480??? Triple that or more.

Pix of the leds top and bottom. ID the led.
Establish if it should have + voltage. What voltage? What is on the other lead???

Backlight leds are chips I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well this website would not accept the full res photos. I posted three photos and described the location of the high beam LED pins. Can you not see those posts?
 

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I see C51 and R52 led solder pads. Led actually on the other side???

Where is the oil pressure led??? Need some component marking to get a locate.

I have uploaded a 1.2 MB burned up stator. Uploaded a 4.1MB VTX schematic.

Usually a large upload is resized.
Try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The solder pads for the Oil Pressure LED are just below the “CL10” label. I pointed that out for reference to what they look like compared to the High Beam LED that was replaced. Yes, the actual LEDs are on the other side of the board.
 

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Oil pressure light---What led wire is postive and which one is negative.
Connect +12v and Ground(Negative) to the respective green connector wires
and start measuring for +12v and the resistor and where the oil pressure switch wire is.
Black and Red marker pens may help follow the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I desoldered the blue high beam LED. No change. Obviously another component on the PCB has failed in this process.
 

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High beam indicator get power from headlight. It only has a resistor and a ground connection.
Back to the real problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sure. Five LEDs quit working. Speedo and backlighting LEDs work.
Are you thinking there may be two grounds going to this PCB, one for the items working and one for the items not working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK. I confirmed continuity for a grounding wire, and touched that to the Anode (-) leg of the Oil Pressure and the Neutral indicator LEDs. Neither lit up. Tried left TS and that LED, then tried right TS and that LED. Nothing. Actual turn signals front and rear flashing per switched position (at left handlebar) as expected.
 

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What is on the Anode side of those Leds?? Needs + voltage
 
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