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It is an 05 s. I bought it in rough shape and just about halfway modified. I started riding before 3rd. grade and have had many bikes, but I love this one more!
It's my accelerator pump that's ticking me off. Any suggestions?
 

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No, Sea-Foam will not damage your engine.

Some people who are having engine problems split a can between 3 tanks of gas, to really clean out the top end of the motor.
(If you do that, don't be alarmed to see white smoke from your xhaust, it's an oil based product)

I throw a few ounces in every time I fill up.
I would not recommend adding it to your oil.

As for your accel. pump, smarter ppl than I will be along to help
.
How to use Sea Foam in fuel | Sea Foam
 

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Seafoam is good stuff. Don't expect a miracle though. As far as the AC , what's the problem. you don't leave any info. Are you getting gas flow when you turn the throttle from the AC? You can tell by taking the air filter housing off and looking at the carb . You should see the gas squirt from the AC when you turn the throttle
 

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I have 5 jerry jugs for fuel for everything I own- mower, chain saws, weed wacker, leaf blower, leaf vacc., pressure washer, etc. I add a half can to each empty jug before filling it. 2 of the jugs are strictly for un-ethanol fuel for the lawn implements, the other 3 for the mower, leaf vacc. Seafoam is more of a preventive measure to keep deposits from building in unused fuel lines etc. If it sits a real long time, I'd recommend Startron 'blue', an enzyme-based product that will dissolve buildups. Adding these products is probably cheaper in the long run, than replacing carburetors and fuel lines in small gas products. My .02. I get paid -0- for any endorsements.
 
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Seafoam, use for winter storage to keep the fuel from turning to varnish
You want to clean the fuel system, use Techron Fuel System cleaner as recommended by many vehicle manufacturers. Split a bottle over 2 or 3 tank fill-ups

Neither one will harm your engine
 

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""It's my accelerator pump that's ticking me off""
Inspect it. It sprays out a squirt.
It not working inspect diaphragm.
One or two ball check valves to allow fuel in to accelerator pump, prevent
backflow to carb bowl.
Getting backfire from carb due to lean A/F when throttle opens.
Any carb mods? ACO valve connected.
 

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Seafoam, use for winter storage to keep the fuel from turning to varnish
You want to clean the fuel system, use Techron Fuel System cleaner as recommended by many vehicle manufacturers. Split a bottle over 2 or 3 tank fill-ups Neither one will harm your engine
I have never used "Seafoam" in my VTX, too many other products out there that in my opinion, do a better job. Several products will do the trick when it comes to cleaning the carb & winter storage. Techron is one, this is recommended by Honda. Archoil is what I use - Amazon.com: Ar6200 (4.2 Oz) Fuel Modification Complex (Treats 335 Gallons of Fuel): Everything Else
and of course Sta-Bill will work just fine as well.
 

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Sta-bil has a shelf life of 2 years, or less.
 
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I've used many different cleaners / stabilizers, seafoam is one of the best IMO. I use it on everything I own year round. all 4 of my bikes have it added with a full tank of gas every fall for storage, in the springtime, I add it to my snow blower with just about 1/2 cup of gas then when first snow hits I fill the tank. As a matter of fact last night 12/29/20, Chicago area just had it's 1st real snow, the blower fired up on the 2nd pull. I have it in my generator that I only start once every 6 months, runs perfect. My biggest problem is keeping all the batteries charged, my storage areas don't have electricity in them and I don't want to run extension cords outside over the winter months.
 

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Unless they are in the way, don't worry about extension cords in winter. They might be a little stiff, but still work fine. I have an unheated, un-wired 24 x 24 barn for the bike, snowblower, tractor, etc. It gets power from an extension cord plugged into the GFCI outlet on my deck, and I have it running partway up the roofline before crossing the driveway to the barn, also entering the barn up high so big delivery trucks can drive under safely. I just bought a new 12ga. cord to replace the 14 ga. presently in use, as it's getting near 30 years old and has a couple splits in the insulation that I can see, and who knows what I can't see. The heaviest draw is when I run my upright compressor.
 
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Be careful running anything that has built in switches that shift from start up windings to run windings, like saws and pumps. These switches work off armature speed (centrifugal) and often will not switch if run on a long extension (voltage drop). Motor does not shift off of the start windings and fries. As noted above, wire gauge of extensions is critical.
 
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