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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished the rebuild on my bike which involved replacing all the clutch components. I put in the performance kit with Kevlar plates and heavy duty springs.

Did a test ride and everything works great. Got back to the house and found it very difficult to get the bike in neutral while it's running. Turn it off and it goes neutral fine. It feels as is the bike is pulling forward slightly even at a stand still with the clutch lever pulled.



Need some assistance, tips, guidance, etc.
 

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How much "Freeplay" do your have on the lever?
You may have to reduce it to a minimum to get disk separation.
Did you offset the last disk???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How much "Freeplay" do your have on the lever?
You may have to reduce it to a minimum to get disk separation.
Did you offset the last disk???

I didn't make any adjustments to the lever and cable during my rebuild. I've only adjusted them once before when I first got the bike.
What do you mean offset? All the instructions and videos didn't say anything about offset anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How much "Freeplay" do your have on the lever?
You may have to reduce it to a minimum to get disk separation.
Did you offset the last disk???
I didn't make any adjustments to the lever and cable during my rebuild. I've only adjusted them once before when I first got the bike.
What do you mean offset? All the instructions and videos didn't say anything about offset anything.
Will the last plate not being offset cause this? The clutch grabs hard and shifts great. It'd just when I'm stopped trying to go in N with the bike running. Turn it off and it goes in N easily. A friend of mine said to check / adjust the clutch cable.
 

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If the springs are too tight and the disks are a bit thicker your clutch will not disengage all the way. That is why you only go into neutral when the engine is off, its pulling on the clutch because you no longer have any spot that the clutch is free. Some of the Kevlar style clutches come with spacers that go underneath the springs to adjust clutch tension. The MTC clutch I used on my supercharged bike did the same thing. I needed to take out 1 25 thousands spacer to get it to adjust. Also the offset will cause the plate not to seat all the way which could cause this as well. You have very sticky disks with stiff springs if you get the clutch to fully disengage you should be aware that if the bike sits for any amount of time you should free the clutch by rocking the bike in gear before you start it. If you don't the bike will lunge the first time you put in to gear because the Kevlar disks will stick to the plates. I about took out the garage door the first time I ran my bike after it sat for day. Good Luck :{)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the springs are too tight and the disks are a bit thicker your clutch will not disengage all the way. That is why you only go into neutral when the engine is off, its pulling on the clutch because you no longer have any spot that the clutch is free. Some of the Kevlar style clutches come with spacers that go underneath the springs to adjust clutch tension. The MTC clutch I used on my supercharged bike did the same thing. I needed to take out 1 25 thousands spacer to get it to adjust. Also the offset will cause the plate not to seat all the way which could cause this as well. You have very sticky disks with stiff springs if you get the clutch to fully disengage you should be aware that if the bike sits for any amount of time you should free the clutch by rocking the bike in gear before you start it. If you don't the bike will lunge the first time you put in to gear because the Kevlar disks will stick to the plates. I about took out the garage door the first time I ran my bike after it sat for day. Good Luck :{)
Thanks. Guess I'll have to take it back apart. I only tightened the springs to the required torque and the kit I bought didn't come with or say anything about spacers.
There weren't any indicators or markers on any of the plates, am I supposed to just offset one? Does it matter which direction or anything else?
 

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Freeplay--the clutch lever movement that does not disengage the clutch pack.
If the lever has too much freeplay, the clutch pack cannot separate as it should.
Pictures of last disk offset and freeplay.
No washers on the springs=ok. Too many washers and spring coil bind prevents
full clutch release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Freeplay--the clutch lever movement that does not disengage the clutch pack.
If the lever has too much freeplay, the clutch pack cannot separate as it should.
Pictures of last disk offset and freeplay.
No washers on the springs=ok. Too many washers and spring coil bind prevents
full clutch release.

Cool. Would it hurt things if I try and just adjust my lever and leave the plates where there are or should I just tear it down again and do plate offset? I do have a lot of free play in my lever.
 

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What are you waiting on? Do it. Sometimes I make Freeplay changes on the go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What are you waiting on? Do it. Sometimes I make Freeplay changes on the go.

Just trying to figure out the best way to fix it and avoid tear down if I can because it's been on the lift fir months. I'm not with the bike at the moment so trying to plan ahead. If leaving the outer plate where it is will be fine I'll just adjust the freeplay. Just need to figure out if that plate positioning will hurt things or not.
 
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