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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Scar,

I know there are many here, as well as I, who respect your knowledge on jetting. I’m hoping you can help me with my problem. Here’s my story:

I have V&H Bigshots with quiet baffles on my 2004 1300S. When I installed the Bigshots a couple of years ago I also installed the DynoJet Stage 1 Jet kit at the same time. I replaced the stock spring, needle, and main jet with the kit‘s spring, needle and jet. My setup is pretty standard:, E-clip in 3rd groove from top, DJ195 main jet, A/F screw 2.5 turns out. Also, have the stock air box with a K&N filter and the PAIR valve is removed. The bike ran pretty well with this setup.

I liked the sound of the Bigshots much better than stock but it was just too loud for my taste. So over time I had covered 12 of the 16 holes in the forward section of the baffle hoping it would quiet them down. It did quiet them slightly, but still too loud for me.

Just a couple of weeks ago I tried another experiment. I tack welded a 5/8” I.D. washer inside the baffles down by the welded fastener nut used to secure the baffle inside the pipe. The O.D. of the washer fit perfectly in the end of the baffle and there’s a positive stop for the washer where the baffle necks down about 1” from the end. This gave me the sound I was looking for. I was pretty happy and I took her out for a ride. It seemed to run pretty good and it was a lot easier on my ears.

Here’s where my problem comes in. After about 6 or 7 miles into the ride, I was coming to a stop and the bike stalled. It started back up but would only stay running if I kept the throttle up. I drove it home as I was only about a mile away when the stalling happened. I let the bike cool down and pulled the plugs. They were all pretty black and carboned up. I figured the reason I fouled the plugs was that the washers created too much back pressure restricting airflow and I wasn’t fully burning the fuel like I was without the washer. So I removed the washers, sandblasted the plugs clean and reinstalled everything and it’s running good again, but louder than I like.

I don’t want to put the stock pipes back on as I like the look and lighter weight of the Bigshots much better. I tried the “Clayton mod on the stock pipes before I changed to the V&H, but it wasn’t the sound I was looking for. I would like to put the washers back in the V&H baffles but I know I’ll have to mess with the carb to make it run right.

If I put the washers back in, should I take the carb back to the stock setup? Would it just be a matter of changing the main jet to a smaller size, or the E-clip groove on the needle? What would you recommend I do jetting-wise so it’ll run good with the washer in the baffle setup? Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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I would try this, put your factory main jet back in and do 2 turns out with the a/f screw.

Since you are putting in those washers you're restricting the airflow and basically you have too much gas. So by putting in the smaller factory jet you will reduce the amount of gas in the mix. 2 turns is a good starting point in my opinion.

I would say and this is just a shot in the dark, that you are just as restricting as the factory with those washers in the baffles. So just go back to the factory jet. The spring and needle are good to leave in there though.

Hope you get the sound and performance you desire. I just bought some HK 3" pipes (in the mail.) But I have gutted stock pipes and its just too blah for me. My friend has the HK 3" pipes on his shadow and they sound really good (throaty deep sound) Gutted stocks are just fricken loud. I really don't mind them but I feel bad for my neighbors. Sadly the HK's will be less noisey.

I measure the dbs with a decible meter from work and gutted stocks measured over 105 at idle 12" away from the pipes.

HK's on my friends 750 shadow measured 92 decibles at idle 12" away from the pipes.

Hope some of that helps you out.
 

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Put the stock main jet and stock needle back in... leave the short dj slider spring --

Decreasing the airflow through the exhaust has made the bike rich.. if you are lucky it is close to the stock exhaust and the stock needle and mainjet will do the trick for you -- if it is still rich after making that change, then leave the stock needle and install the dj 195 main jet.. it is much smaller than the Keihin 195 in actual fuel flow.

For testing purposes run your A/F screw to 2 1/2 turns out when installing the stock jet and needle... run the bike for at least 15 miles and then do your 60 and above speed testing... if the bike is running good up there then you can fine tune the A/F screw if necessary... don't mess with the A/F screw until you have the main circuit tuned or you will end up chasing your tail and never achieve the performance that you want... the bike should run at least as good as "stock" with your V&H modified the way you have it once the carb is tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all of the replies. I've taken some time off from the board and not posted here for a quite a while. A couple of months ago I started back just reading and kinda got back into the spirit of the board. The people here are really great and always ready to help someone with a problem.

I'm gonna give Scar's recommendation a try and let you know how it turns out. I should have this completed sometime Monday. I'd have it done tomorrow but I have to use the welder at work to tack the washers back in the baffles. I feel pretty confident that I'll get it running good knowing there's quite a few experts on this board who have my back.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I put the stock main jet and needle back in the carb, set the A/F screw 2.5 turns out, welded the 5/8" washers into the baffles, and put them in the pipes. I took the bike out for a 50 mile ride and all I can say is that Scar knows his stuff. The bike runs really good throughout the whole throttle range. It may be my imagination but it feels like it pulls harder now.

The sound is exactly what I was looking for. It's still plenty loud. Much louder than stockers with the Clayton Mod, but not ear shattering like it was before. As far as before and after... it's much quieter now at idle but when you twist the throttle it barks pretty good and loud. Cruising speeds of 60 - 70 mph are much easier on my ears and I'm sure, those of my riding buddies. When I run it hard through the gears, it still sounds pretty damn loud!

Thanks again Scar. I'm going to run it a couple of hundred miles, then check the plugs to see if any adjustment is needed. If you have any other suggestions on optimal tuning, please let me know.

Regards,
Dan
 

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canaled said:
Well I put the stock main jet and needle back in the carb, set the A/F screw 2.5 turns out, welded the 5/8" washers into the baffles, and put them in the pipes. I took the bike out for a 50 mile ride and all I can say is that Scar knows his stuff. The bike runs really good throughout the whole throttle range. It may be my imagination but it feels like it pulls harder now.

The sound is exactly what I was looking for. It's still plenty loud. Much louder than stockers with the Clayton Mod, but not ear shattering like it was before. As far as before and after... it's much quieter now at idle but when you twist the throttle it barks pretty good and loud. Cruising speeds of 60 - 70 mph are much easier on my ears and I'm sure, those of my riding buddies. When I run it hard through the gears, it still sounds pretty damn loud!

Thanks again Scar. I'm going to run it a couple of hundred miles, then check the plugs to see if any adjustment is needed. If you have any other suggestions on optimal tuning, please let me know.

Regards,
Dan
Chalk another one up for good 'ol #11. :wink:

Biddy
 

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canaled said:
Well I put the stock main jet and needle back in the carb, set the A/F screw 2.5 turns out, welded the 5/8" washers into the baffles, and put them in the pipes.... The bike runs really good throughout the whole throttle range. It may be my imagination but it feels like it pulls harder now.

Dan
 
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