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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading, with much interest, the "Air Fuel and Missives" article, I still have one simple question.....Can you replace the stock air filter with a K & N on a completely stock 2005 1800F without any fuel management adjustments? Is there any noticeable difference?

Thanks up front,
Jim in Oregon
 

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Don't buy the K&N for performance cause you won't be happy. It will only gain 1 or so horses.
Do you need to add a fuel manager when you add airboxes and/or pipes?
The short answer is, No. They are not needed, but you might want to add one to get the best possible performance and fuel mileage out of the additions. Most members run without a fuel manager while having aftermarket air intakes and exhaust and have no problems at all. The following is from the “Sticky” thread called,“Air,Fuel,Motor,Missives…” and the first post by Tapper. The entire post is filled with great information on the VTX engine.

Tapper said:


After Market Fuel Computers

This is a good time to talk about aftermarket fuel controllers, so lets hit on what they do real quick. The 1300 guys can manipulate their A/F ratios by changing jets, but it’s a bit more complex (and expensive) for the 1800 riders. For the VTX, there are basically three types of controller available. All three do exactly the same thing – they manipulate the amount of time the injectors are turned on during the intake stroke, by intercepting the voltage the ECU sends to the injectors. How the decide how much longer or shorter to turn the injector on, varies a bit though, and that variety is important thing to know when selecting which controller to use on your bike (if in fact you choose to use on at all – none of them are ever really necessary, regardless of what pipes or airboxes you add on to the bike.)


It’s also important to understand this: None of these controllers is ever a necessity, regardless of whether you change pipes or airboxes on your bike. The stock ECU will, in almost every case, adjust to the changes in airflow you’ve caused, and give you a reasonably good A/F ratio.
But you should understand, that the ECU is not programmed to give you an A/F ratio that is optimized for horsepower from the factory – instead, Honda worries about things like pollution, engine temperature, and rider perception, and so the ECU can be said to be “de-tuned” in order to address these other concerns. So the real function of these add-on controllers is to correct the error (or eliminate the de-tuning) that Honda induced in your fuel curve on purpose, in order to reclaim the lost horsepower and improve engine efficiency (possibly at the cost of making more pollution, hearing more deceleration backfiring, etc). Adding on aftermarket pipes or airboxes can sometimes exaggerate this de-tuning as well, so we need to be able to modify our fuel curves to match the configuration of our bikes. Got that? These boxes aren’t necessary, but if you’re hunting more horses, they can sure find them.
 

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Welcome to the board!
Bookmark or save to your favorites folder, these websites, http://tech.vtxoa.com This is the VTXOA Garage, a sister site to this message board and contains all your How-to/Tips/Tricks/Why’s and links to other helpful sites for your new VTX. http://www.bareasschoppers.com/ A fellow VTX Riders site that has many write-ups on “How-To” do work on the VTX. Also, for you 1300 guys http://www.vtx1300tips.com/ another fellow VTX Riders site.

There is also a helpful red Search icon at the top of every page(not the Google search)
Search Query section
Search for Key Words;__________________________

Below that click on the "Search for All Terms" button, effectively unchecking the default selection of "Search for any terms or use query as entered"


Search Options section
Select 1, and only 1 "Forum" to search in at a time, or at all.
For example, "Best airbox" I would only search in the "1800 Tech Board"



That's the basic way, you can limit further by using some of the other "Drop-Down" menu's like if you know the thread you are looking for is only a week or so old, etc....

Now that you have a list of threads you've searched for, do not just click on the thread you want to read. Instead RIGHT click on the thread and select "Open in New Window" This will pop up a new window with that thread in it, leaving your searched list intact for you to go back to.

The purpose of the "Search" is to offer a member the opportunity to research his/her question better. There is so much information from past threads that you may never see because that member is no longer here, or doesn't see your new post, or just won't respond to the same question. So use it to your advantage and enjoy the board! View this funny and informative film about posting and searching…
http://uploads.ungrounded.net/188000/188612_Posting.swf

Take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with the forum. At the top of every board there are threads that are tagged as "Sticky" These threads are "Sticky" because they contain very important/valuable information about the VTX and everyone should read them.
The thread at the top of the 1800 tech board called, "Air, Fuel, Motors..." will answer most of the performance questions...
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28918

Also, update your Profile to include where you live and what type X you have to your Signature line. I.E. 1300/1800/C/F/N/R/S.
 

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I tried to find ways to get around doing the desmog and getting the new air box and maybe skipping getting the PCIII, but what I found out was what everyone kept saying. Do the desmog, get the pipes, put on a PCIII, do your airbox mod and then get it dyno'd/ I did this and everything runs great. I get 126.9 FT/LBS of tq and 109.17 hp and I'm fine with that. The pipes sound great and I'm not messing with anything (at least for a while).
 

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BPD29289 said:
After reading, with much interest, the "Air Fuel and Missives" article, I still have one simple question.....Can you replace the stock air filter with a K & N on a completely stock 2005 1800F without any fuel management adjustments? Is there any noticeable difference?

Thanks up front,
Jim in Oregon
first off, buy a used airbox to mess around with ... they run
about $25-35 ... i cut off the flapper and nozzle and drilled
some big holes in it and installed a K&N filter ... won't say
the performance improved but it runs fine and the gas mileage
is a tiny bit better ...

then installed a pclll ... long story short it was the last one in
Western Canada ... and i have pipes ordered so i got it now
and installed it (thanks for the solder hint C-Spike!) ...

okay, now the bike runs much better ... just used the 'stock'
map but the throttle is smoother, the bike really pulls at the
top end so who know wtf happened but again, won't say i
got tons of performance, but its better with the pclll and open
airbox than before ...

will report on gas mileage when i get a couple tanks through ...

oh yeah, since you will have the tank off:

1. ground fix -- lookit up its important!
2. clean rad cap ... tighten rad hoses
3. do pair removal ... i recommend Bone's block off plates.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
K&N Filter

Thanks guys....and especially you Spike for the web site search info.
 

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Exile said:
BPD29289 said:
After reading, with much interest, the "Air Fuel and Missives" article, I still have one simple question.....Can you replace the stock air filter with a K & N on a completely stock 2005 1800F without any fuel management adjustments? Is there any noticeable difference?

Thanks up front,
Jim in Oregon
first off, buy a used airbox to mess around with ... they run
about $25-35 ... i cut off the flapper and nozzle and drilled
some big holes in it and installed a K&N filter ... won't say
the performance improved but it runs fine and the gas mileage
is a tiny bit better ...

then installed a pclll ... long story short it was the last one in
Western Canada ... and i have pipes ordered so i got it now
and installed it (thanks for the solder hint C-Spike!) ...

okay, now the bike runs much better ... just used the 'stock'
map but the throttle is smoother, the bike really pulls at the
top end so who know wtf happened but again, won't say i
got tons of performance, but its better with the pclll and open
airbox than before ...

will report on gas mileage when i get a couple tanks through ...

oh yeah, since you will have the tank off:

1. ground fix -- lookit up its important!
2. clean rad cap ... tighten rad hoses
3. do pair removal ... i recommend Bone's block off plates.

:)
And also number 4:

4. Install a fuel line quick disconnect.

This will make it much easier for future work when you have
to remove the tank.

Great advice on all posts here.

Jim...
 
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