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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a trick to keep Kury passenger floorboards from rotating? I installed them with Kury adapters and I can't seem to tighten them enough to keep them from rotating when they're stepped on while passenger is mounting/dismounting the m/c.
 

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Did you use locktight on the bolt threads, maybe bolts are loosning up :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Locktite might work. I don't seem to be able to tighten the adaptor bolt enough to overcome the weight applied to the front or rear of the floorboards. I'll take them apart and apply some locktite.
 

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They are both right hand threads so, depending on how you mounted them, one will want to un-thread. They're coarse thread so it's hard to get enough torque on them to keep them in place. Use the blue locktite, and quite a bit of it or, get removable loctite for coarse thread bolts. The blue loctite worked very well for me.
 

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IM having the same problem.....and its not that they are coming loose from riding, I just cant get enough Torque on them to tighten them up initially....maybe I'll step up to a half inch drive and a breaker bar....anybody have a better fix to secure these adapters?
 

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Kury

Hey fellas,
the reason you're not getting enough torque on those bolts is because the two parts you're trying to mate together are touching. I had the same problem. I bought the floorboards at Daytona during bike week, brought them home, installed them and almost busted my butt the first time I stepped on them. Let’s see if I can explain what to do so you can understand. I think the adapter comes to a point and the floorboard has a recess. The point is much to long so what’s happening is they are making contact thus not allowing the bolt to tighten. The splines will NOT engage enough to keep the floorboard from rotating. I brought the parts back to the Kury tent and they told me that Kuryakyn knows about this problem but refuses to fix it for some reason. Anyway what they did to fix the situation was to take the adapter to a grinding wheel, grind off about the depth of 2 threads. This allowed the bolt to pull tight enough to allow it to engage the splines and tighten the bolt. That bolt needs to be real tight but use a 3/8th ratchet because if you use a breaker bar or 1/2 ratchet you can break the bolt.
Let me know if I can be of more assistance.
Charlie
 

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Neo...Im not having the rotation problem where the hex bolt secures the floorboard to the adapter (not yet anyway....i havent gotten that far). My situation is that the adapter will not tighten down on the frame tabs, and they are rotating even though Ive tried to squeeze in a d washer, and really crank down the bolt. They should have designed them to work similar to the stock peg, which when lowered recesses into a hole in the frame tabs. I may have a fix to the adapter problem. :idea:

For the past hour Ive been cutting and grinding a piece of flat metal to be the correct thickness and width which will take up the space just inside the adapters. This will prevent them from rotating. The flat metal will "lock" against the flat edge of the adapter and I can drill a hole and bolt the flat metal below the adapter using the hole that locked ths stock pegs. Seeing how I've been up for 24 hours straight and have to be back at work in about 6 hours, I'm going to get some rest because I may not be making sense...LOL. But I'll post the info and pics if this works out.

The good news is that I got my Kury switchblade pegs on, the Kury Brake Resevior cover done, and the Kury Turn signals with smoke lenses on, so thats a start. 8)
 

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Update....turns out the guy who looked up the adapters I needed was an Idiot. He told me Id need the same adapters as the front peg adapters....which is what they sent me. NOPE. I called them back to ensure they were the correct ones for the floorboard....and sure enough...they are NOT! So, they will be shipping me the new ones in about 2 weeks. IN the meantime...i need to see if i can continue the fabrication tomorrow so the wife has her floorboards for the Ruidoso Rally next thursday....fun fun.

Oh, and I also managed to get a few more accesories done today......The Kury Engine Mount chrome covers....which are a pain in the A$$ to get installed. Well time consuming is probably a better word. And the Kury Spark Plug Slotted covers with the LED accents were installed and wired up today. Id like to get additional LED's to put behind the slotted engine mount covers now, but that will have to wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Kury

CAPT-NEO said:
Hey fellas,
the reason you're not getting enough torque on those bolts is because the two parts you're trying to mate together are touching. I had the same problem. I bought the floorboards at Daytona during bike week, brought them home, installed them and almost busted my butt the first time I stepped on them. Let’s see if I can explain what to do so you can understand. I think the adapter comes to a point and the floorboard has a recess. The point is much to long so what’s happening is they are making contact thus not allowing the bolt to tighten. The splines will NOT engage enough to keep the floorboard from rotating. I brought the parts back to the Kury tent and they told me that Kuryakyn knows about this problem but refuses to fix it for some reason. Anyway what they did to fix the situation was to take the adapter to a grinding wheel, grind off about the depth of 2 threads. This allowed the bolt to pull tight enough to allow it to engage the splines and tighten the bolt. That bolt needs to be real tight but use a 3/8th ratchet because if you use a breaker bar or 1/2 ratchet you can break the bolt.
Let me know if I can be of more assistance.
Charlie
+1 I visited the Kury tent in Sturgis this summer and they did the same fix on my adaptors. The floorboards splines mesh and tighten down now.
 

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I have some of the old style that dont have the splines I ended up drilling from the bottom tapping and putting set screws in.
 
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