Honda VTX Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Background:

* 1300C
* Silver Bullets (halogen) on Back

I added the Silver bullets (halogen) on front and it works great (no equalizer, no diode). I connected the SB's in the headlight shell. Working from memory it was Left SB to Orange and Right SB to Light Blue.

What do I need to add the running lights as well to the front? Will the Kury diode kit do it?

I tried adding a 3 amp diode between the orange/white wire and the orange wire and I got running lights when the blinker was off, but the diode got nice and hot after a few seconds. I removed it and don't have running lights now, just functioning blinkers.

Any thoughts are appreciated. I searched the board but most all I see referenced are the LEDs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,181 Posts
Just as general FYI - you only need the load EQ when you switch to LED's and you only need the diode if you have a 1800C model which has the single dash indicator.

http://tech.vtxoa.com/index.php?action= ... artlang=en

So no need to worry about any of that stuff! :wink:

Now, to figure your situation here... What you tried is normally what I recommend for LED's up front:



But that won't work with halogens since they draw so much current. I'm unsure which wattage you have but here's the basics:

35W halogen / 14.4V supply voltage = about 2.5 Amps

55W halogen / 14.4V supply voltage = about 3.8 Amps

Sooo... You need to find a diode that can handle more amperage if you want to run them this way. Try these:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?c ... d=276-1661

It's the highest rated diode I can find at Radio Shack. Put them on and see if they get too hot, I think they should be fine for your application. Make sure you wire them in with the stripe facing towards the light! :wink:

Hope that gets you where you need to be. 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Excellent.

Thanks, Bare. I thought/think I was on the right track, but the heat really got me concerned. That was the biggest one they had at that RatShack in particular.

Back to RatShack (damn, they are closed at this time of night) and tear the headlight back apart.

If this works out I will give back to the tech board with some pics and a quick write up.

Without your help. of course, I would still be twiddling my thumbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Went to RatShack and got those diodes.

Same situation. When I wire it up everything function great, but the diode gets hot.

So, until I come up with another solution, no running lights. The Kury tech support says use the 4170 run/turn/brake controller and just not hook up the break wire.

Well, it was worth a shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
If you are looking for a more heavy duty diode, you can try Fry's here in the metroplex. The Kury RTB controller is a pretty slick set-up - I'm running my rear signals off of one, but...

...take a look at these. They are smaller and will take up a lot less room in the growing hornet's nest in your headlight bucket. They're rated to 15A and should handle those SBs OK.

http://www.customdynamics.com/magic_blinkers.htm
$16 each...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #7

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #9

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,181 Posts
JamesC said:
3D said:
JamesC said:
Wonder what size that Magic Blinker one has in it?
I would guess that rated at 15A, pretty big.
This link http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/MAGIC_BLINKER/magic_blinker.htm says they are can cary 5A (~65w).

The instructions call it a resistor:

http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/MAGIC_BLINKER/Custom_LED_Magic_Blinker_-_Instructions.pdf

Perhaps I need to be looking at resistor's.
You need diodes not resistors for sure, resistors will only dim the lights.

As for the proper one, I have to admit I'm a bit stumped on why the 6A diodes wouldn't work, how hot did they get? Some heat is normal and expected. If it's like fire hot, going to burst into flames hot then obviously that's a problem... Otherwise just throw some heatshrink around them and call it a day. :wink:

PM me when you get back to this. :wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
JamesC said:
3D said:
JamesC said:
Wonder what size that Magic Blinker one has in it?
I would guess that rated at 15A, pretty big.
This link http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/MAGIC_BLINKER/magic_blinker.htm says they are can cary 5A (~65w).

The instructions call it a resistor:

http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/MAGIC_BLINKER/Custom_LED_Magic_Blinker_-_Instructions.pdf

Perhaps I need to be looking at resistor's.
Interesting. I'd guess that the guy who actually makes them rather than sells them knows better. Might be a good question to ask Custom Dynamics why they're claiming triple the actual rating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
Hi
A few weeks ago I asked "how does it works" http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64808&highlight= and Poison pointed it out that on the front lights If signal is on then running is off same side so I made a 2 to 1 end cable and connected the two cables ( ornge and orange/white I do not remember the colors) on one end and the small bullets on the other end, it work perfectly. I left on for five minute and everything was ok but because I am waiting for my lightbar, I installed it as a turn signal only.
I do not know if leaving it on all the time it is going to be good or not. May be somebody can clarify this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
NDM said:
Hi
A few weeks ago I asked "how does it works" http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64808&highlight= and Poison pointed it out that on the front lights If signal is on then running is off same side so I made a 2 to 1 end cable and connected the two cables ( ornge and orange/white I do not remember the colors) on one end and the small bullets on the other end, it work perfectly. I left on for five minute and everything was ok but because I am waiting for my lightbar, I installed it as a turn signal only.
I do not know if leaving it on all the time it is going to be good or not. May be somebody can clarify this.
That did the trick!

I connected the SB's to the running lights and tied in the turn signals to the single wire. When the turn signal is on, it works as expected. When it is off, I got running lights. Nothing gets hot, works fine. Except....

I got running lights on the back too (and the dash LEDs are lit up all the time in runnning light mode). So....

I connected a 3A diode between the light and the turn signal wire and viola! I got running lights on front, turn signals all around working 100% and my dash signals only illuminate when I turn them on.

Thanks, everyone.

I will try and create a drawing that illustrates it all and post. If anyone needs some clarification, I can provide insight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
HDL has a wire pigtail that is two into one with diodes in that makes them running and turn signals. part # xtr-xr61 magic adapter cable. $20.00
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
831 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
matman said:
HDL has a wire pigtail that is two into one with diodes in that makes them running and turn signals. part # xtr-xr61 magic adapter cable. $20.00
Thanks.

My solution, once I figured it out, cost me around $2.00 for the two 3A diodes. I had the wire and the shrink tubing already.

And, I feel good about figuring it out (with assistance from the forum, of course).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,181 Posts
JamesC said:
matman said:
HDL has a wire pigtail that is two into one with diodes in that makes them running and turn signals. part # xtr-xr61 magic adapter cable. $20.00
Thanks.

My solution, once I figured it out, cost me around $2.00 for the two 3A diodes. I had the wire and the shrink tubing already.

And, I feel good about figuring it out (with assistance from the forum, of course).
I knew that would work, the reason I usually recommend using the 2 diodes (like in the schematic above) is that I don't like the power feeding back through the running light wires. I know that in theory it won't hurt anything but I just don't like current floating around like that.

Personal opinion I suppose, I'd just rather be safe than sorry. :wink:

Glad you got it ironed out.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top