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Discussion Starter #1
Baron's makes a great quality product in their Big Air Kit (BAK). However, unless you have the fingers of a triple jointed 12 year old female piano player, servicing the BAK is not a simple endeavor.

The problem starts with the fact that the outer cover is retained by some 1/4" fine thread (28 tpi) by an 1 13/16 in. bolts that thread in from the backside of the backing cover. The bolts are surrounded by the Air Temp Sensor, and hoses. This further complicated by the air filter having no retaining grooves etc to hold it in place. So you have to hold the outer cover, and the filter while blindly reaching in to thread the bolts into the outer cover. (See BAK Stock image)

My first install took about 20 minutes and some angry words to make it through. So being a lazy slob I thought about a cheap and simple workaround.

Parts Needed:

2 - 2 inch long exhaust studs (1/4 by 28 tpi on one end and 1/4 by 20 tpi) or 28 tpi on both ends I could not find one (Ace Hardware # 63522)

2 - 1/4 by 20 tpi nylon locking nuts (aircraft nuts)

1 - tube of blue threadlock (I picked blue because it it not as permanent)

Steps:

1) Remove the BAK outer cover by removing the two retaining bolts highlighted in the first image (BAK stock image)

2) Remove the retaining bolts and spacers from the BAK backing plate (you will reuse the spacers)

3) Clean off the inside of the BAK outer cover and dry the threads of the lower two retaining bolt holes.

4) Install a drop of threadlock on each of the 2" studs on the fine threaded end of the stud and thread the studs into the outer cover lower two mounting holes (see image install fine threaded studs w threadlock)

5) I took a small set of vise grips and gave the stud a 1/8 turn to snug it up, the outer cover only has a small depth to it so do not over exert yourself and damage that very nice chrome.

6) I then added a little teflon tape to each stud on the unthreaded section of the studs to hold the spacers in place (about 3-4 rounds of tape will add just a little drag and keep the spacer in place). (see image adding teflon tape)

7) Now put the spacers onto the studs and over the teflon (these are important to keep you from crushing the filter). (see image spacers in place).

8) Now its time to remount the cover and filter.
a) place the filter into the grooves on the backing plate.
b) use the outer cover to trap the filter in place while lining up the studs with the backing plate mounting holes. (make sure the filter stays in the grooves.
c) while using your left hand to hold pressure on the cover, take your right hand and start the lower retaining nut (use the 1/4 in by 20 aircraft nuts) and tighten with a wrench until in is barely snug.
d) recheck the filter and the grooves, loosen and start over if it is out of place.
e) now start the much harder upper nut (made easier since we ditched the goofy bolt setup) tighten until just snug.
f) now finish tightening (just past snug) the lower retaining nut.

9) Recheck the filter and alignment to the grooves.

10) Your done! Now you can the filter swap out to clean it in under 5 minutes with less chance of cross threading that nice outer cover.


In retrospect this costs about $7 to do with what I cited. You could have used threaded rod (fine thread) and made your own studs. I liked the higher tensile strength of the studs (actually exhaust studs). I would own a Gearwrench or similar 7/16 in ratcheting combo wrench to make this easy.
 

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I found the 1/4 X 2 studs with the 20tpi on one end and 28tpi on the other end at my local Carquest auto parts. They were the only auto parts store around that had them.
 

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This is interesting.
I'm considering getting a BAK, so am subscribing to this. It's the first time I've heard of their difficulty level in servicing.

thanks for the DIY.
I'm riding an 05 1800 Neo and just switched to the BAK. I love it except for one thing...nobody told me that for my bike I needed the classic filter instead of the one that comes with the kit and now I have a little bare spot under the right side of the tank from the top of the chrome cover digging into it. My advice, make sure you order the classic filter with the kit. It's taller than the other one and comes with longer bolts. I would also advise finding a set of regular ol' hex bolts that you can put a wrench or socket on...Baron's sent me a pair of Allen bolts and let me tell ya, the top bolt is kind of a bear when you have a small space and fairly big hands. FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

This was so simple I almost did not post - thanks for the feedback.

Just paying it forward for all of the great ideas others have submitted.
 

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Regarding the Baron's Big Air Kit

I see that the BAK comes with new needles and jets. Are these always needed, or are they supplied as "just-in-case" items? I plan on getting the BAK and a Power Commander III and doing the install myself on an 1800R, however, installing new needles and jets, well, that's a bit out of my range. I'm also running the full Cobra Slash-Cut exhaust system on the bike. What do you think - are they needed?
 

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I see that the BAK comes with new needles and jets. Are these always needed, or are they supplied as "just-in-case" items? I plan on getting the BAK and a Power Commander III and doing the install myself on an 1800R, however, installing new needles and jets, well, that's a bit out of my range. I'm also running the full Cobra Slash-Cut exhaust system on the bike. What do you think - are they needed?
needles and jets are for carbs...you have FI
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No worries - no jets on an 1800

I see that the BAK comes with new needles and jets. Are these always needed, or are they supplied as "just-in-case" items? I plan on getting the BAK and a Power Commander III and doing the install myself on an 1800R, however, installing new needles and jets, well, that's a bit out of my range. I'm also running the full Cobra Slash-Cut exhaust system on the bike. What do you think - are they needed?
Your golden no jets. Just buy a K&N Filter Charger and your set for years.
 

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needles and jets are for carbs...you have FI
You know, I really thought that was the case, that FI didn't use needles and jets and such, but I figured that since the kit was designed specifically for the VTX1800, they wouldn't include the new needles and all if I couldn't use them. So I figured I must be wrong - there MUST be jets in there somewhere! Thanks. (now I really wonder why they're included!?)
 

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Just want everyone to know you can also order these parts directly from Mcmaster Carr online. Here are the item numbers, total cost was $13.29 + S&H

Part# 94358A130 - 2" long 1/4" studs 20tpi on one end and 28tpi on the other - 2ea needed
Part# 92018A210 - Nylon insert locknut 1ea (comes in bags with 100 nuts)

Hope this helps those that either don't have an ACE nearby or just don't want to be bothered traveling to find the parts.
 

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i wish i had seen this thread months ago when i first got my bike and started work on the rebuild. my filter is nicely squashed where i was fighting and eventually gave up trying to get it off. will give this a go when the urge takes me but i still think i need to get the tank off to get access to it .
 

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Does anyone know how long the spacers are? I have a "fatter" filter in my BAK. Thanks!


Thanks,
Tony
2004 Honda VTX 1800C
 
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