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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was taking my seat off to do the ground fix and my ultimate seat has worn 3 marks into my rear fender down to the metal. Additionally I lost the bolt that goes on behind the passenger seat. Then I noticed that I lost a bolt on my front fender. Then while peeking under the gas tank (haven't popped it off yet I found a hose off at the front of the tank. Popped that back on hoping it was the root of my problem. So I started cleaning the bike and now I've noticed that my paint is peeling/bubbling around the metal housing near the gas tank :(. So now my questions.

1. What is the size of the bolt for the passenger seat (rear bolt)
2. My paint job isn't even a year old what's up with that?
3. I was at the end of a long ride and the bike started sputtering and spitting. Eventually died. I thought it was a ground issue, but now I wonder if that hose I found off the tank is the culprit. Thoughts?
4. Has anyone else had their ultimate seat wear through the paint of the rear fender?
5. Do I need to go have words with my painter?

Thanks for listening and any advice is appreciated.

Here is a link to pictures of my paint.

http://picasaweb.google.com/cclagg/PaintProblems
 

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My Ultimate Low Rider is based on stock seat pans. The passenger seat has a couple rubber stops/bumpers that touch the paint, but I keep the fender clean and it hasn't worn through yet. I can see some slight scuffing of the clearcoat where it touches, but nothing major. Sounds like your paint is custom? Custom paint might not be a tough as factory paint.

Sorry to hear about your other problems. I would doubt that the hose you mention would be causing a problem like that... I think it just is for capturing gasoline vapors returning from some part of the fuel system.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep custom paint that I was very proud of and now it is bumming me out.

I pulled the right side rear plug just to see what it looked like and it was WAY corroded and fouled. I pulled my breather and there is a little bit of oil in the bottom. Everything is stock, and I'm only at 6500 miles. Why would my plugs be fouled already?

I took her out for a spin and when I get on the throttle she starts dying out.
 

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Wort said:
Yep custom paint that I was very proud of and now it is bumming me out.

I pulled the right side rear plug just to see what it looked like and it was WAY corroded and fouled. I pulled my breather and there is a little bit of oil in the bottom. Everything is stock, and I'm only at 6500 miles. Why would my plugs be fouled already?

I took her out for a spin and when I get on the throttle she starts dying out.
Sorry about your paint job. I would talk to the painter about what can be done.

Are you burning low octaine regular gas as recommended by the MFG? Have you done a ground fix and checked your battery connections to make sure they are clean and tight?

The type of riding you do may have some effect on fouling plugs. It's been my experience these engines need to run at a little higher RPM's and not be lugged down. I was having problems with fouled plugs and carbon build up. I decarbed my engine and started running higher RPM's and so far no problems in over 4k miles.

Assuming what you call the breather is what is also known as the crankcase breather hose or the intake air filter and housing, it is not uncommon the find a little oil in the bottom.

Dying out when getting on the throttle could mean a number of things including a kinked hose, dirty fuel filter, faulty pressure regulator or although not likely with such low mileage, a weak fuel pump.

Hope this helps and good luck.
Jack
 

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sorry to hear about the paint problems. It's hard to tell where the problem is happening, the pic is too much of a close up. Talk to whoever painted your bike and see what he says. I've never wanted a customer of ours who's paid thousands of dollars for a paintjob to feel bummed, that's why we offer a standard lifetime warranty on all our work so our customers don't have to worry about things. Maybe your painter offers some sort of guarantee also???? I hope you get that (and all the mechanical gremlins) worked out....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going to call the painter Monday and depending on how that goes I'll call my insurance adjuster. The paint job was part of my repairs when I laid my bike down, I just paid the delta for the custom part.

I'm going to search, but I'm trying to find out a way to tell if my battery is part of the issue. I think I should be able to measure the voltage across the battery while it is running to see if the voltage is correct, but I'm not certain.
 

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Yea, the one image is too much out of focus, and barely make out the next one which I take it is near the tank center console.
Typical fuel migration on bare paint.
Must not be a urethane clear over coat done.

Tank Too full when fueled?
Only guessing...

How much time between painted and fueling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got the paint done late last year. The bubbling just appeared this past weekend.

So should I suspect that they used the wrong or worse no clear coat after they painted?
 

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usually clear only bubbles right around where the fuel hole itself is. On a VTX, that is hidden under a chrome bezel and the fumes would have to travel 4" under the clear before coming up on the visible part of the tank. You just don't see this happen too often on metric cruisers, because most of them have that chrome bezel. On HD's, the gas cap has a little 1/8" lip to go between the paint and the gas fumes/hole. Not much.

One easy way to prevent this (especially on Metrics) is to just tape around the fuel filler hole before painting. Anyone who's gotten one of our paintjobs knows what I am talking about. Your tank is whatever color it is, and when you pop the cap to fill the tank you see the OEM orange/red/blue ring of color there. That pretty much prevents the fumes from getting underway beneath the clear.

Most of the times when you have gas getting under the clear, it's in one of those flush mount pop up cap situations, as there's just nowhere for to hide anything, the paint goes right up to the edge of the gas cap opening.

There really is no "wrong" clearcoat, as long as it's a catalized clear (which they all are) then you should be fine. It's possible they could have sprayed a candy and then left that without clear, or color sanded and buffed the candy itself, but that would be absurd and make no sense to do that.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok that makes sense then. My paint goes right up to the lip of the fuel filler hole. When I pop of my gas cap I see green all the way around the lip and it has flaked away a bit.

Now that has me thinking, I wonder if any of that paint has flaked off into my tank, causing me issues.
 

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I just did the ground fix last week to fix my 1800r from stumbling (thanks for the fix suggestion on this site, I haven't had a problem since). When i took off my Ultimate seat I too noticed the paint was rubbed in on the rear fender. I've had the seat a little over a year, put about 4000 miles on it, and have a 120# rider 75% of the time.
 

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X8urHD said:
My Ultimate Low Rider is based on stock seat pans. The passenger seat has a couple rubber stops/bumpers that touch the paint, but I keep the fender clean and it hasn't worn through yet. I can see some slight scuffing of the clearcoat where it touches, but nothing major. Sounds like your paint is custom? Custom paint might not be a tough as factory paint.

Sorry to hear about your other problems. I would doubt that the hose you mention would be causing a problem like that... I think it just is for capturing gasoline vapors returning from some part of the fuel system.

Rob
I have the stock rear passenger seat & I noticed the same ""slight" rub marks :? :oops: :roll: . I wonder just how these rub marks can be eliminated so that it does not continue over the life of the bike!?? I like the look of the NEO w/out the passenger seat & love to pull it off when riding solo!....I hate the fact that these rub marks exist :cry: :shock: :( & would love to make this "go away"! :wink: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok I've done the ground fix and went all the way even removed the tank, not bad for a non-wrencher.

However, my problem still exists. When I get on the gas it is almost like it is flooding out.

I measured the voltage across the battery while it was idling and it was around 12-13 volts. Doesn't seem right to me.
 

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Can you throttle up sitting still and still get the sputtering and missing or is it just when accelerating under load?

It sounds to me like you have a clogged up fuel filter - there are 3 on the 1800 - one replaceable and two non-replaceable but cleanable. When accelerating, it gets to a certain point and then sounds like its bogging down? It doesn't take much to replace the replaceable filter - except you should get it from HDL or a dealership (and most dealers don't "stock" it - they have to order it). They're not cheap - but you shouldn't have to replace it that often.

What happened with mine, I bought a used bike that had sat up for quite some time - the owner started it periodically, but didn't keep the tank full - the temperature fluctuations caused condensation inside the tank on the metal that wasn't covered by gasoline - led to rust. When I bought it, ran 20 or so tanks through it - even went to Honda Homecoming 960 miles away - ran fine for about 6000 miles - but eventually all the sloshing fuel knocked loose the rust particles and my fuel filter slowly clogged up. It got to the point where I'd be running down the interstate, the bike would start sputtering and coughing - I'd have to pull off, shut of the engine for a few seconds (to allow the floating debris to clear) then start it up and run another few miles before clogging up again.

I've got over 10,000 miles on the second fuel filter and no signs of any kind of trouble - just keep the tank as full as possible to prevent the rust.

You can see full photo step-by-step of how to get to the filter at VTXOA Garage - look for "fuel pick-up mod" and you'll find a write up by Bare regarding lowering the fuel pick-up. It gives instructions on how to access the fuel pick-up arm and remove it and re-install it with torque values and all.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks coltergeist. I started a new thread that dealt with just this one issue. Not sure if that's bad forum etiquette. But, to answer your question, when I start the bike she is fine. But once the problem starts, it happens with or without load.

Another detail, On the way home last night I stalled out right in front of my house. I pulled in the clutch and hit the starter and everything flashed, odometer lit up all LED segments and nothing happened. Released the starter and hit it again and she fired up enough for me to limp into the garage.
 
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