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Discussion Starter #1
How much wattage you can withdraw from a honda vtx1800f 2008, taking in consideration stock lights?
Will I be able to hook up....
200 watt speakers... phone charger...10w and some LED strips...
Tried hooking up all and 10 amp fuse burnt.
Any advise on how to work electrical calculations.
Thanks
 

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the charging system can provide 400 watts.

the stock 1800 uses 280 watts

leaving you with 120 watts..
speakers do not draw 200 watts... but the "AMP" can produce 200 watts of Audio..
not pull 200 watts of power.
200 watts is 15 amps at 12.6 volts.
audio and power watts are not the same thing.

Welcome fellow "F" owner.
got mine New 2005.. currently at 92,500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the charging system can provide 400 watts.

the stock 1800 uses 280 watts

leaving you with 120 watts..
speakers do not draw 200 watts... but the "AMP" can produce 200 watts of Audio..
not pull 200 watts of power.
200 watts is 15 amps at 12.6 volts.
audio and power watts are not the same thing.

Welcome fellow "F" owner.
got mine New 2005.. currently at 92,500 miles.
This is audio system I have installed...

And 6 strips of drivestyle flex lite LED and 8w cell phone charger.

And my 10 amp fuse blew...when connected directly....it burnt my LED wire...

Am I am pushing too much amps or why did the LED wire burn
174965
 

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NO.. and NO..

you have a Short... a little over draw of power will not burn wires.. just pop a fuse.

and NO way that little box can deliver 100 watts ( P.E.P )

1200 watts ( PEP ) class 'AB2' audio power is 45 amps at 12.6 volts..

class AB2 is the standard of audio amplifiers..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Little box? What are you referring too?
Should I put higher amp fuse.. I.e. more than 10amps?
Pull separate line from ignition to LEDs and keep audio on separate line?
I will check all wires for short circuit.
How to fix the issue?
 

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Led wire maybe wired incorrectly or shorted or is defective.
This Pyle of crap is advertised as 1200 watts peak power.
That is an ambiguous figure that means nothing but exaggerated BS.
The only valid power rating is RMS.
A lack of instructions.
A "T-Tap". That is sorry.
The 10 amp fuse, is that on the amp wiring or is it the VTX fuse???
A good amp should have some instructions on how to procure the appropriate power.
Most people that add electronic devices connect an external relay and fuse box.
The 1800 has an unused terminal on the Ignition switch that can be used for something at 10 amps or less.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Led wire maybe wired incorrectly or shorted or is defective.
This Pyle of crap is advertised as 1200 watts peak power.
That is an ambiguous figure that means nothing but exaggerated BS.
The only valid power rating is RMS.
A lack of instructions.
A "T-Tap". That is sorry.
The 10 amp fuse, is that on the amp wiring or is it the VTX fuse???
A good amp should have some instructions on how to procure the appropriate power.
Most people that add electronic devices connect an external relay and fuse box.
The 1800 has an unused terminal on the Ignition switch that can be used for something at 10 amps or less.
The 10 amps fuse is on extended (separate) audio fuse wire...but I threw in led and phone charger on same wire ... which makes in 3 components hooked to single fuse extension.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Plan now is....
Hook up audio and phone charger via 10 amp fuse line....
6 led hook up direct to battery with a switch...which will be turned on at night....
WILL IT WORK?
or should I run it through 2nd fuse line...just to protect over surge.
174967
174968
 

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A fuse protects the wire from burning up if a short occurs in a device or if the wire becomes
shorted.

If the melted wiring of the first set of pictures would have melted and shorted to other wires than
critical wiring could have been damaged.
 

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You might not like this, but get a 6-circuit fuse block from Advanced Auto or similar, to run all aftermarket stuff. One hot lead to the box, 6 individual circuits for everything else so things don't have to be wired together to make them work. And I recommend the EZ-ID fuses that light up when they pop. I have 1 circuit for my road lights, one for my LED 'show' lights, 1 for my Wolo, 1 for my satellite radio, 1 for my handlebar Kury power point for charging phone, etc. Each circuit individually grounded. I drilled a couple small holes for a tap bolt in the frame for extra grounding points. Changing all OEM lights to LED will free up a little juice.
 
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There really isn't any information available to know for sure. My guess, like Chucks, is that, that small of an amp could never deal with 300w of power for more than a few milliseconds. Nor could those tiny speakers. The instructions call for a 15A fuse. Unless you actually put a meter on the Amp and crank it up tgere is no way to know for certain what the current draw will be. That said my bet is that you will be fine, just based on the size of the components. Anything other than actually metering it is a best guess though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A fuse protects the wire from burning up if a short occurs in a device or if the wire becomes
shorted.

If the melted wiring of the first set of pictures would have melted and shorted to other wires than
critical wiring could have been damaged.
I checked all components individually and they all seem to be working fine...headlight, turn signals, speakers, charger, LEDs.
How do I rule out which LED may be defective? What is best way without burning another wire...
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update...
As per plan...I seperated... audio and phone charger (both items).. via 10 amp fuse wire and they seem to be working and holding ON.
Moving all LED to separate fuse wire and connect a toggle switch...hopefully it should work...
Will work on it tomorrow.
 

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I'm currently tracing LED blue light gremlins. I too have them on a toggle switch, a 5 amp EZ-ID fuse in a fuse block. I have the rear half working again, but need to get my tank off to trace / rewire the rest.
 
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