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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe this has been posted somewhere else, I did a search but no lucky for me today.
I did the Mortons 7* with AllBall bearings. Since Mortons did not came with specs, and the way it goes is different from the OEM I don't have a clue about torque specs. BadX gave me 40 ft lbs - 45. I'm in 45. I handlebar goes to the left about 30 - 40 mph on decel. I took it for a very short ride ( 2 miles or less) and noticed this.

I found a post several weeks ago talking about high speed and low speed wobbles and how can be detected. I'm very tired, no extra hands here to help me out so any help will be appreciate.

Mortons 7
2" fork extensions
11 rear shocks
tire Metzeler on 38psi
races all the way down to the stop
around 2 - 2 1/2 lbs with the fishing scale
 

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don't know

I don't know what to tell you. I had absolutely no problems with my ride after I installed the bearings and Mortons trees. And I had decel wobble before with the stock stuff. Tire cupping? Tire pressure? I'm sure you've checked these. I would double check all bolts, especially the steering stem bolt, and go from there. Good luck.
 

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Make sure your axle is set properly. Loosen up your left side axle pinch bolts and bounce on the front end ( with the front brakes on) about 4 or 5 times. This will let the front forks take a natural alignment to the new trees. If you look at the axle just inside the left tree, you should see a groove next to the fork. The spec's say that is the premium alignment for the brake caliper on that side. If it is binding on the left side, that could account for the pull to the left.
Not sure of the neck bolt configuration on the Morton's but, I believe it is the same as the stock, which is a good thing. The star bolt that sets the torque on the bearings (bearing preload) should be set with the fish scale as your guide to about 2-2 1/2 lb like it says you did. Tighten the top nut to 74 foot pounds. Install the tire, but not the bars as the cabling can screw up your readings on the scale, and check the bearing preload with the fish scale. If it is not within the 2-2 1/2 lb limit, take the top tree off and adjust the star bolt again.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tires are completely new. Less than 20 miles each.
About the neck, there's no steering lock nut to adjust. The Mortons comes with one single main bolt and you must install the upper TT in order to retain the lower in place. Also, the Mortons is aluminum, so I am scared to tighten that bolt to 74 ft lbs. Let's see what else I can find.

I emailed those guys from Mortons.... still waiting for a reply.
 

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Seat Dr
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Something isn't right if you have a wobble for sure, what I don't know. I would check the front tire first. One thing I noticed when I went to the 7 degree trees is the touchyness of the steering it self, if I just barely moved the handle bars it would be twitchy and every bike i have riden with them has been the same way(rake and trail numbers come into play on this) How easy are the handle bars to turn? Easy, medium or stiff...I am guessing easy and that may be the problem. You may need to torque them down a little more to get it to a medium type feeling. When I first installed mine I went right to the 74 ft lbs and it was stiff so I started backing it off some and like I stated to you in the PM I was going by what I could remember(its been 2 years since I did mine) so you may have to increase the torque on the nut a little may try 50-60 lbs.
 

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In my opinion, and others as well, those type of trees are basiclly junk. Sorry but, I went through a whole episode with mine. They were both Hal's and VTExtreme with the center through bolt. They have no means to preload the bearings or to properly torque the trees to provide stability. I had to have a special spacer made up that goes into the neck in order to properly preload the bearings and get rid of the wobble. I cannot have the spacer duplicated so, don't ask. In my opinion, that type of tree is unsafe. I would suggest you return them if possible and pick up a set that is made properly. Hal (Honda Direct) sells a nice set by Kewl Metal that is made correctly with the factory type preload setup. I believe he stopped selling the ones with the through bolt. The KM trees are about $850 but, well worth the extra bucks. I spent over $1200 trying to make the cheap ones work properly. If someone tries to convince you that a wobble with degree trees is normal, that is pure BS.
Here's a link to the right kind of trees:
http://www.kewlmetal.com/Default.aspx?t ... genumber=0
 

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the tree I have from SOTMC are the same as factory for assembly. I torqued the top bolt to 86 F LBs that is what the book said.

Larry
 

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Corrado_Driver said:
the tree I have from SOTMC are the same as factory for assembly. I torqued the top bolt to 86 F LBs that is what the book said.

Larry
According to the 1300 shop manual page 13-28, the torque on the stem nut should be 76 lbf/ft
 

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I knew it was X6 lol

I did it with two torque wrenches cause it seems super tight lol Just wanted to make sure I wasn't off

Mine is very touchy no wobbles but I have gotten used to it now, and love it

I don't even notice any more, check the axle Like they said before mine was not aligned after doing the new tire. PM and I'll walk you though what I did.


Larry
 

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Easy Rider said:
In my opinion, and others as well, those type of trees are basiclly junk. Sorry but, I went through a whole episode with mine. They were both Hal's and VTExtreme with the center through bolt. They have no means to preload the bearings or to properly torque the trees to provide stability. I had to have a special spacer made up that goes into the neck in order to properly preload the bearings and get rid of the wobble. I cannot have the spacer duplicated so, don't ask. In my opinion, that type of tree is unsafe. I would suggest you return them if possible and pick up a set that is made properly. Hal (Honda Direct) sells a nice set by Kewl Metal that is made correctly with the factory type preload setup. I believe he stopped selling the ones with the through bolt. The KM trees are about $850 but, well worth the extra bucks. I spent over $1200 trying to make the cheap ones work properly. If someone tries to convince you that a wobble with degree trees is normal, that is pure BS.
Here's a link to the right kind of trees:
http://www.kewlmetal.com/Default.aspx?t ... genumber=0
Well, to be honest, any aftermarket tree that increases your rake and decreases your trail is going to be "less safe" than the stock set up. Why do you feel the Morton's are any less safe than another brand?
 

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Easy Rider said:
Make sure your axle is set properly. Loosen up your left side axle pinch bolts and bounce on the front end ( with the front brakes on) about 4 or 5 times. This will let the front forks take a natural alignment to the new trees. If you look at the axle just inside the left tree, you should see a groove next to the fork. The spec's say that is the premium alignment for the brake caliper on that side. If it is binding on the left side, that could account for the pull to the left.
Not sure of the neck bolt configuration on the Morton's but, I believe it is the same as the stock, which is a good thing. The star bolt that sets the torque on the bearings (bearing preload) should be set with the fish scale as your guide to about 2-2 1/2 lb like it says you did. Tighten the top nut to 74 foot pounds. Install the tire, but not the bars as the cabling can screw up your readings on the scale, and check the bearing preload with the fish scale. If it is not within the 2-2 1/2 lb limit, take the top tree off and adjust the star bolt again.
Hope this helps.
Joshen, I would try this. The fact that it's pulling to one side makes me think it's not related to the center head bolt.

And are you positive you got both extensions flush?
 

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Re: ..........

BDsbigZRX said:
I'm still trying to figure out what a "wooble" is.......... :roll: :lol:
I was trying to figure out if a wooble was more or less severe than a wobble.
 

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.......

Lamonster convinced 240spoke and myself that raking the neck out on Matt's bike (in addition to the Mortons trees) would bring the stability back. It's done, we are still just working on other parts of the bike so we haven't been able to test it yet.....
 

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I am suspecting the wobble is the touchyness of the steering. When I first installed my trees the touchyness was kind of nerve racking at hwy speed (70-75 mph) When i put the the 240 setup on my bike I lowered the back about 1" and that really stablized the bike so you may want to consider lowering the back end a little.

I won't get into a debate about raked triple trees but they have been around forever and are perfectly safe as long as you take in consideration what you have. People say lowered bikes aren't safe and yada yada yada...you have to ride within the bikes limit and if you customize a bike to be lowered and raked out you know its not going to handle like a sport bike nor ride like one. Personally, I like lowered and raked out bikes but thats just me. I know the bikes limits and ride it within them as I suggest anyone who has a customized bike. Just my .02cts
 

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Badx,

Easy rider isn't suggesting rakingthe bike is unsafe. He's saying that the way most of the trees are engineered is not safe in his opinion because of the lack of a way to preload the bearings properly. He worked on this with VTXextreme or Kewl Metal, one of the companies, quite a while ago, and I believe he convinced them to change the way they build their trees. He also spent a pile of money getting his set up the way he believed was the right way to do it.

Kfox
 

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Kfox said:
Badx,

Easy rider isn't suggesting rakingthe bike is unsafe. He's saying that the way most of the trees are engineered is not safe in his opinion because of the lack of a way to preload the bearings properly. He worked on this with VTXextreme or Kewl Metal, one of the companies, quite a while ago, and I believe he convinced them to change the way they build their trees. He also spent a pile of money getting his set up the way he believed was the right way to do it.

Kfox
From his opening line
In my opinion, and others as well, those type of trees are basiclly junk.
I guess everybody has their own experiance, mine was good and know of plenty of other who have had good experiances also. When you change tree's or what not you have to understand what is happening and what is going to happen when you do this.... enuff said on this I am officially dropping this subject so if anybody wants to flame me thats fine.
 

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Whoa. Badx. I'm not trying to flame anyone. Never have on any forum. Just trying to explain where he's coming from. I'm not an engineer. I have no idea wether they're built safe or not. I just knew about easy rider's dealings with this from back a year or two ago, whenever it was and he feels that they're not built safe and could get someone hurt. That's all I was trying to say.

Kfox
 
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