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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bought in 6/2013 in Albuquerque from original owner - 8520 miles.
When I Bought The Bike, It Came With:
♦ Studded Tank Bra with Pouch
♦ V&H Longshot pipes
♦ Fat engine bar / crash bar
♦ PC3
♦ Adjustable Honda Windshield
♦ Honda Sissybar, backrest, luggage rack
♦ Leatherlyke hard Saddlebags
♦ K&N Air filter
♦ Custom License Plate Mount and Cover
It Still had original tires on it from 2003 - good tread but deteriorating from age

July 2013 - 9400 miles:
Put new Dunlop E3 tires on front & rear - running at 40psi on both
While replacing tire, found rear flange bearing were bad - replaced with OEM bearings - Also replaced axle & nut
Lubed drive splines
Changed oil & filter - Royal Purple 15/40 - Honda filter

September 2013 - 13500 miles:
MCC seat mod
cleaned reset button on trip meter
Changed oil & filter - Mobil 1 TD 5/40 - Napa Gold filter
Cleaned & lubed shifter pivot point

February 2014: 16800 miles
Checked valve clearance - 1 valve needed adjusting - West Honda Albuquerque
New spark plugs OEM

April 2014:
Running bad - problem was broken wire on PC3 under seat
Soldered wire fixed problem
Did ground fix

June 2014:
Replaced Fuel Pump Regulator
Changed Oil & filter - Mobil 1 TD 5/40 - Napa Gold filter

September 2014:
Cleaned & lubed shifter pivot point

March 2015:
Changed Oil & filter - Mobil 1 TD 5/40 - Napa Gold filter
Flushed hydraulic systems & replaced fluids
Flushed and replaced engine coolant

August 2015: 27555 miles
Changed oil & filter - Mobil 1 Advanced 15/50 - Napa gold filter
Pulled rear wheel - lubed splines - Honda moly 60 paste
Changed differential oil - valvoline full synthetic gear oil

March 1 2016: 28740 Miles
Rear tire picked up nail, went flat - Replaced just the rear tire with a new Dunlop E3 - Now running 42 psi front & rear
Replaced rear brake pads
Moly on splines looked unused after 1000 miles - added a little more moly to the splines
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
March 3, 2016:
Turn signal switch moving stiff and not working properly. Flushed and lubed with WD40 by inserting the straw on the can into the switch and moving it back and forth while flooding it with WD40. Problem Solved. Got the tip to use WD40 from other members here, Hans & Feet and Jammerwalker.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
JULY 30, 2016 - 31250 miles

Getting ready to make another 2000 mile round trip to south Texas in a couple of weeks. Today, had the stealer install new Dunlop E3 front tire and new OEM front brake pads, both sides, miles. All front brake pads were original and were paper thin. Lubed shifter & kickstand. Rear tire & brake pads replaced a few months ago.

Front tire that was replaced today had 23000 miles on it. Rear tire had 19500 on it when replaced in March. Both were E3's. Both new ones also E3's.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
August 7, 2016 - 31,550 miles

Today put in new spark plugs. NGK oem's were not available so I used Autolite xp3924 iridiums. The old plugs were pretty carbon'd up for such low miles on them, may be running a little rich.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
October 10 2016 - 34580 miles

Bike has been acting strange. Occasionally acts as if it has momentarily run out of fuel for an instant, the immediately picks up and goes again. Found broken TPS wire wire under the seat. Same wire previously broke and I soldered it in 2014. Re-soldered it today and added a 3 inch extension wire to it so it will have a little slack in it when I access the battery. The original problem with this wire was caused by a vampire clip being used on it too close to the plug leaving only 1/2 inch of wire to work with. Hopefully the extended piece I added to it today will keep it from breaking again.
Also cleaned and tightened battery terminals today.

Also, forgot to post on August 7, 2016 that I changed the oil and filter, Rotella T6 oil and a NAPA gold vtx1800 motorcycle filter.

I pulled the dipstick today for a look at the oil which now has a little over 3000 miles on it and it is clean, looks almost like new oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
01-26-2016 34920 miles

Had to re-solder the TPS wire again today. Could see now where my recent solder job was pretty poor. Got it soldered good today.

OOPS - the date is 10-26-2016
 

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Discussion Starter #11
August 6, 2017

Removed the PCIII today. Have been having problems with bike cutting out and was unable to fix it any other way.

Also, as part of the troubleshooting, did the ground fix again paying particular attention to the front coil ground, and cleaned and tightened battery terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Removed the PCIII today. Have been having problems with bike cutting out and was unable to fix it any other way.

Also, as part of the troubleshooting, did the ground fix again paying particular attention to the front coil ground, and cleaned and tightened battery terminals.
Also as part of the troubleshooting, installed new spark plugs, again using Autolite xp3924
 

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Took to bike shop in Albuquerque today to have front forks re-sealed - right side is leaking
I've heard that most of the time you don't usually need new seals, but just need to remove the debris or dirt that is causing the seal to leak, and there is a tool you can get for about $5 to do that with. You might even be able to use a thin laminated card to do the job. Just run it around the top of the seals to pull out any stuff that's allowing them to leak.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
thanks Jammerwalker. I've heard of people doing that on dirt bikes. I've also seen a product that works in a similar way called Sealmate, but have only seen pictures of it being used on dirt bikes. Have you ever had any luck just cleaning it ?
BTW I took my bike to J & D on Quincy right behind Bobby J's Yamanha - have you ever heard of them ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
8-18-2017

Got bike back today. Shop installed 'leakproofseals' brand seal kits, no leak. Also went from 10w fork oil to 15w. Ride a little stiffer, more fire but better. Discovered during the fork rebuild that I already had progressive springs and didn't know it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
1 year and seals leaking both sides. Got a sealmate gadget worked on the leaks last 2 weekends. Got right fork leak 100% stopped not leaking at all. Left fork close to stopped. Left fork will leave a thin light ring near the bottom if the forks bottom out or come close on a rough road but not building up or dripping and no sign of fork oil unless iv been on a rough road.
41974 miles

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
42260 miles Changed oil filter, topped off oil

With almost 5000 miles on the last oil change ( used Mobil 1 Racing 4T and a K&N filter ), I put a new oil filter on today ( walmart Supertech ST6607, the blue one there is also a black one and a white one )
and added 1/2 quart of Mobile 1 Racing 4T oil which brought the level up exactly to the full mark. Also noticed what looks like some micro-cracks on the rear tire that I need to look at closer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
42265 Miles

New Rear tire this weekend. Bought a Dunlop American Elite from Cycle Gear, took them the rim and they mounted it. Put it back on the bike today. Got a new 90 degree angle valve stem. Got the road hazard warranty for the tire. Cleaned the splines and put a new coat of Honda 77 assembly paste on, put a thin coat of paste on the axle as well. Torqued the axle to 81 foot pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
42750 miles forks rebuilt

Rebuilt front forks last Monday, October 8th. New seals and bushings - all Honda OEM parts this time. Went back to 10wt fork oil. Last seal job leakproofseals were used, did not last but barely 1 year and started leaking. Last time I did not replace the bushings and should have. This time I did it right. 42750 miles.
 
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