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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I don't know how many of you saw my aux led light post a few years back, but they ended up just being cheap pieces.. either burned out or fell apart. This time I made my own custom set up using my favorite LED supplier - they had everything for the LED side of it and heatsinks, and I just snagged some P-clamps and fuses etc from EBay or Amazon.

The cool part about this setup, is that if the LEDs or lenses get damaged, I can easily replace them for literally just a couple bucks. I have a switch that turns on amber lights for the foggy mornings, and another switch to turn on the 4 super bright cool whites.

The only thing left is I've ordered some chrome steel wraps (basically chrome zip ties made of metal) that I will replace the stupid plastic zip ties with... :D

I'm working on a big write-up and how-to that I'll post in a few days, but check out the end result!
 

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Wish you lived closer. I'd pay you to add these to my bike,, but I think Kentucky is a little too far away from Utah!!!!
Nice look. No one will be able to say "I didn't see you".....
Safe Riding.
 
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Very impressive!

:firstplace::congrats:

One of the first things I did to my bike was to improve the lighting for safety. Can't wait to see your write-up.:pepper1:
 
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Rare to see amber lights but there are very noticeable.
Waiting for the hardware to be posted.
Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice workmanship! Great write-up and photos!
Unfortunately no focus, cutoff, or pattern control from those LED's in that 2nd to last photo.
Thank you!

Just to clarify: the focus and pattern is subject to the lens I put in (there are 3 or 4 different throws you can choose from), but you're right that there is no cutoff. To not blind others on the road, the aiming of the module is pretty crucial. I think after doing this write up I did end up turning the aim more towards the ground. If you line it up on a good long straight and flat road, you can dial in the position to get a good throw and really good ground lighting.
 
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This is what "proper" cutoff looks like:

Typical stock...



Projection LED...



This is NO cut-off pattern whatsoever...



No pattern, no focus, no cutoff.
Just wide scattered light, unsafe and blinding up-close at night to oncoming drivers.
It appears the headlight also suffers from the same no focused pattern?

Sorry nothing personal... just calling it the way it is.
Hopefully you've resolved this.

I post this because a lot of riders are uninformed, or refuse to understand.
There is a LOT of information out there about this.

But I really DO like your handiwork and craftsmanship!!!


I think after doing this write up I did end up turning the aim more towards the ground..
If that's true... take another picture against the same white fence or wall and observe the results. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll get some pictures next time the temps get above freezing. You're right that there's no cutoff, but there definitely is focus - I should take a picture without the lens on as well - and wait for it to actually be dark so you can see absolutely where the light falls.

No hard feelings - I appreciate honest feedback! That's how we get better!

The main headlight was actually stock in that picture... so that is what it is.
 
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Have to agree, your pics show no focus at all. Think of an in house flood light in your kitchen compared to a spot light. Yes, a flood light "Looks" as though it is really bright and focused. Then you see a spot light in the same fixture and you instantly see the difference. That's as basic a comparison as I can give. There's a reason why OEM style LED headlights have weird looking thick glass lenses on them. LEDs NEED a thick glass lens to take all that ambient light and focus all that into a beam of projected light. This is why taking a $15 Autozone LED H4 replacement lamp doesn't work as a replacement in a headlight designed for an incandescent lamp. You can see in your second to last pic all the light on the ground right next to your front wheel. All that is ambient light, lost unfocused light. And because it is unfocused this means the lamp is spewing light in all directions and the only way you will not piss off other drivers is if you point those lights almost straight down.

LEDs must have a projection lens for them to operate as a focused headlight. That's just the way an LED light is
 

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I looked at your 3up led lens 10507 and looked for some beamwidth data: 16.4° FWHM - XPE Leds.
I have used 3 watt leds with 10° lens which has a lot of scattered light.
My lens are right at 7/16" in height. Your lens look to be about the same also.
A few years back my wife bought a bicycle light claiming 2000 lumens.
It has a much tighter beam than what I have.
The lens in this device is about 3/4" to 1" in height.
The longer lens is the important factor I believe.
I bought two of these lights without the battery pack and charger for $8 each.
I can dim all my leds when in traffic.
I replaced my 4 watt 30° bulbs with the 6 watt units.
I improved the 6 watt([email protected]) units by using epoxy to fasten the 1 up led board to the heatsink.
It has a buck/boost regulator but when enough resistance is in the circuit it will dim.
A picture from a few years ago when doing indoor comparisons.
These are aux driving lights NOT headlights.
 

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Like it.

I used to think adding lights to a MC was just a "thing" many did for grins.

However, after returning to motorcycle riding after 26 years and being caught on long rides in the dark I soon remembered that motorcycle lighting SUCKS, even in the day time.

I finally added Moto Lights then converted to LED to save watts plus brighter. I then put a yellow Lamin-X stick-on filter over the stock lens. Now they are sort of yellow with a greenish tint look. I then added Rivco H-4 (headlights with Hi-Lo) to my Glen's Blinker Bar. All three run the H-4 Silver Star Ultras. I can see much better. The cagers still seem to be blind though. I should have went with either HID headlights or good LEDs which I did on my Royal Star Venture S.

All are aimed correctly. Sorry the night pictures seem blurry.

light bar 2.jpg

MC lights low.jpg Low Beam

MC lights hi.jpg Hi Beam
 
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