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Discussion Starter #1
I started here last year. https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/113-new-member-introductions/457626-bought-beater-2007-1800-vtx-f2-2.html
This year, so far I have installed new take off rear shocks, passenger seat, foot pegs, V&H exhaust tip and I have fork tube covers coming in the mail. This week I have changed oil, filter, brake and clutch fluid and final drive oil. Bleeding the brakes was a little messy as the left front bleed valve was plugged and I ended up with lots of air while I was unplugging it. I also developed a bad vibration at all rpms and found the source of that issue to be a loose positive cable on the battery. While diagnosing this problem I did the ground fix. A month or so ago I hired out the front fork seals. I straightened the rear brake lever. When I get my fork tubes I will install them and a like new triple tree assembly I bought with the rear shocks.
2007 VTX 1800 F2 17586 kilometers
engine oil Amsoil Metric 10/40 full synthetic
filter Napa Gold
final drive Amsoil 75/90 full synthetic
fresh Dot 4 brake fluid, brake and clutch.
I am thankful for all the info I have found here and on the net.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Changed the fork tube covers, triple tree assembly and bearings, headlight and handlebars. Struggling with sticky throttle. It worked good on the old bars. Cleaned the plastic tube, shot lithium spray grease, removed, cleaned and installed again. The throttle works freely until I bolt it on the brand new oem bars. Thats when it is binding in the grip. Next plan is to take the cables out of the control, give that and the tube a real good cleaning and try again. Maybe take a close look at handlebar end for burs and hit that with a file. I searched "sticky throttle: but most posts refer to the cables. Feel free to offer suggestions.
 

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It sounds like you are shoving the grips too tight to the ends of the bars, Back the grip up about 1/8" to 1/4" from the end of the bars. That should fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I thought about that but the clamp has a probe that fits in a hole in the bars and that is where it needs to be? I will compare the old bar with the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I went to compare the hole in the new oem bars to the old crap. This is what I found. Scary. I never noticed these holes when I dismantled it. Turns out the po had the kill switch wiring outside its little holder and when I disturbed it it would not fit in there properly. I completely took everything apart and cleaned everything and installed new take off throttle cables. Lubed them with silicon spray. Smooth as silk.

 

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For years, I have cut the little pin off, that sticks in the hole in the bars. That way I can adjust the switch housing to any position that I like. I do it to both sides of the bars, brake & clutch.
 

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For years, I have cut the little pin off, that sticks in the hole in the bars. That way I can adjust the switch housing to any position that I like. I do it to both sides of the bars, brake & clutch.
It is my understanding that the pins can be removed, pulled out with a pair of pliers or vise grips.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Scrap parts, mostly, some are not bad but I got some better ones free. Thanks to all who have helped so far. Paint or wrap this winter.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sent out parts for paint. Excited!!! Going to have to start scrubbing before the parts come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Painted, Corbin beetles installed with missing brackets I made. Next will be some kind of aftermarket seat. Swapped mitrrors off wifeys's Kawasaki/ These are shorter and look better tahn the jobbers I had.
 
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