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Switch wire

You show 2 blue wires to switch one from relay and one from Tail light wire?:dontknow:

Steve
 

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You show 2 blue wires to switch one from relay and one from Tail light wire?:dontknow:

Steve
Thats right - one IN from the taillight and the other OUT to the relay. That is what you are switching.
 

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what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.

Steve
He is showing a ground wire, maybe that is causing confusion?
You still need to get from the trigger (running light wire) to the relay. He is showing a switch in between because most people want to turn a lightbar on and off.
If you had no switch the running light trigger wire would go straight to the relay.
 

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what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.

Steve
I think what this is showing is a lighted switch -- lights up when it's on, and is unlit when off. If you just use a plain 2 pole switch you can put it in line of the blue wire, to toggle the relay trigger.
 

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Heres what Im getting ready to do, at the moment my running lights are on with my high beam switched on thru a relay triggered by the blue wire in the 3 pin connector, Im installing a on/off switch between the keyed on brown wire in that 3 pin connector and my relay so my lights can be on/off with either hi/low, Im doing this so my running lights arent on with my high beam as it modulates unless I want them on. Im thinking this will work. :dontknow:
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you here.. but.. the end result you're after is having your running lights ON when your low beams are on, and on HI only when you want them to be?

What if you used a 5 terminal relay (with an 87a - HOT when UNtriggered) where your trigger is the high beam?

When on LOW beam the terminal 87a would go to the running lights since you're untriggered, but when you trigger the relay with the highbeam the regular out, Terminal 87, goes hot to the running lights. You'd have your switch on this line from 87 to the running lights.

I only see two (actually 1.5..) potential issues with this:

1) Your power IN has to be on a relay so as to have the lights go out with the headlight when cranking. This would depend on how you wired your aux fuse block I suppose. I don't know if the way the initial picture has it set up will allow that (unless the license plate light goes out when cranking). You'd either have to have a separate relay wired for regular running lights "always on but off when cranking" to put power IN to pin 30/51, or have your fuse block triggered by something keyed-on, but off when cranking.

2) You'd have two "hot inputs" into your running lights (87a and 87). Since this is coming out of the same relay, and can't [read: shouldn't] be hot at the same time this is a moot point. But for safety redundancy to avoid back feeding your + through the other pin on the relay you might be able to rectify this problem through the use diodes to control the flow?
 

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Good point , I will rethink it.
I just didn't follow it the way you were describing it..
For that end result though, to do it with relays you'd need a relay outputting power triggered from a "key-on but off when cranking" source to TWO relays.. 1 triggered by low beam, 1 by hi beam.

The way I described above eliminates 1 of the "beam" relays, and theoretically prevents the risk of backfeeding, as long as everything functions correctly. Let us know what you decide! I've been considering doing this for a while since technically the "always on except when cranking" i have them on now is illegal in NJ... no "fogs" with high beam.

Where were you planning on putting the switch?
 

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I'm about to mount a stereo to my bike in a fairing, and also a 12v power outlet for my GPS. I want to run a fuse block, to run everything

I'm also going to be adding a lightbar, and LED's down the road.

I come off the battery to the fuse block. then out to the relays?

You show coming off the battery right to a relay, then 30/51 , then 87 over to the fuse block. 85 is ground , and 86 is I'm gussing the + wire to the item you want to feed correct?
 

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what is the purpose of coming off the battery to a relay first, then back over to the fuse block?

wouldn't you want to power the fuse block with a 30amp inline fuse, dirrectley to the battery?
 

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what is the purpose of coming off the battery to a relay first, then back over to the fuse block?

wouldn't you want to power the fuse block with a 30amp inline fuse, dirrectley to the battery?
So it will be live only with the key on.
If you went straight though, it would be live all the time.
 

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Ok, that makes sense somewhat, but then aren't you putting all the amperage through the first relay for everything?

Also, some things may be on all the time, such as LED's
Which would be connected to the fuse box also.

Whats the difference if you have a in-line fuse straight to the fuse box, then out to everything vs running straight off the fuse-box, then using the trigger wire when you turn the key on, then that feeds power through the relay to the item you want powered.

Reason I'm asking, I'm wiring everything up tonight, fuse box, etc for the radio, GPS, LED's and Light-bar

Don't mean to high jack the thread sorry

Also, on a 2005 1300R, is there any other wire to use as the trigger wire other than in the can?

I looked under the seat, and I don't have the 4th wire coming out of the harness plug
 

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Yes, you are putting everything through the first relay, but it's okay since it's a relay. Either you switch it all to "key on" in the first place with a relay (AND FUSE!) to the fuse box, or you can switch each individual thing hooked up with its own relay.

For instance, when I just installed MY fuse block, I already had everything wired on it's own relay. so my fuse block, for the time being at least, it just wired straight to the battery with a fuse. it is "hot" all the time, but each individual item (running lights, gps, etc) are all on their own relay so they aren't on all the time.
 

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Yes, you are putting everything through the first relay, but it's okay since it's a relay. Either you switch it all to "key on" in the first place with a relay (AND FUSE!) to the fuse box, or you can switch each individual thing hooked up with its own relay.

For instance, when I just installed MY fuse block, I already had everything wired on it's own relay. so my fuse block, for the time being at least, it just wired straight to the battery with a fuse. it is "hot" all the time, but each individual item (running lights, gps, etc) are all on their own relay so they aren't on all the time.

Ok, that sounds the way i want to do it.

Now I plan on running everything through a relay, each item. So that means everything item, such as the stereo , then the GPS, will all use the same trigger wire for the " Key On " for the power to trigger the relays?

I just bought 3 relays from Autozone, so I should use the following 3's on the relay in this order:

  1. Power from battery right to fuse block with 30amp inline fuse.
  2. Power from fuse block to realy # 30/51
  3. #86 off relay goes to trigger wire
  4. #87 power the item your hooking up
  5. #85 Is ground



Such as this from rattlebars:

 

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You're right on the relay terminal wiring.

But, just a thought:

Since you'll be hooking up the stereo and gps both to "key on" trigger, why not just use ONE relay to trigger the fuse block to "key on" and then go straight to the fuse block with the power for the stereo and gps? It will save a lot of wiring and hassle IMO..

That's how I would have done it in the first place if I didn't already have it already wired.
 

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I understand the simple method , by wiring each thing up as I go.

I understand his schematic on top, but not sure how to sure how to wire everything , because he has extra stuff in there, such as switch's , etc.

I was going to run the GPS straight to the block with no relay, because it pulls so little, and also because it's not hard wired, so I'll be wiring up a 12v power outlet, and running the GPS through that.

Also, I want to run LED's etc, off the block, which I'll be leaving on during the night for a few hours when we go out

So I'll need constant power for those

What do you think?

Thanks for your help :thumbup:
 

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Fuse Block

Greetings Tenn X'r,

I am adding a stebel horn and a power outlet before a trip coming up, I am not much on wiring, wife wants me to get help..dawg has volunterred to give me a hand...so the fuse block is the way to go..and can I get this from any electrical shoppe??
 
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