He is showing a ground wire, maybe that is causing confusion?what if switch only has 2 poles and not 3.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you here.. but.. the end result you're after is having your running lights ON when your low beams are on, and on HI only when you want them to be?Heres what Im getting ready to do, at the moment my running lights are on with my high beam switched on thru a relay triggered by the blue wire in the 3 pin connector, Im installing a on/off switch between the keyed on brown wire in that 3 pin connector and my relay so my lights can be on/off with either hi/low, Im doing this so my running lights arent on with my high beam as it modulates unless I want them on. Im thinking this will work. :dontknow:
I just didn't follow it the way you were describing it..Good point , I will rethink it.
So it will be live only with the key on.what is the purpose of coming off the battery to a relay first, then back over to the fuse block?
wouldn't you want to power the fuse block with a 30amp inline fuse, dirrectley to the battery?
Yes, you are putting everything through the first relay, but it's okay since it's a relay. Either you switch it all to "key on" in the first place with a relay (AND FUSE!) to the fuse box, or you can switch each individual thing hooked up with its own relay.
For instance, when I just installed MY fuse block, I already had everything wired on it's own relay. so my fuse block, for the time being at least, it just wired straight to the battery with a fuse. it is "hot" all the time, but each individual item (running lights, gps, etc) are all on their own relay so they aren't on all the time.