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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Performed the pair valve removal and demsog using Biglry's instruction. I am pretty sure I did everythng right, except I used two 1/2 inch oil hoses to plug off the reed valves, I checked and did not find any disconnected or pinched lines. The hoses were about 1-1/2 inch long, decided to use them while I am waiting on my GP block off plates to come in.

After completing the job, I started the engine and after it warms up I a I get a odd sound gurguling or something like that from the rear cylinder exhaust pipe. Also the exhaust gases from the rear cylinder pipe seem to lose some pressure and are much hotter than the front cylinder. I don't think the hoses are leaking I plugged them pretty well.

I took a ride today and was stuck in traffic, it was around 85-90 degrees out and it seems that the radiator fan kicked on more often than it normally does at this temperature.

Noticed the same thing when I got back from riding the rear cylinder exhaust gas pressure coming from the pipes seems to be a little hotter and less pressure than the front pipe.

I am running the stock air box, with HK 2-1/2 American straight pipes and a TFI fuel unit.

I was thinking the rear cylinder probably runs a little hotter and maybe the length of pipes or something to do with the pipes would cause the difference in pressure.

As I remember before I did the mod they both felt about the same.

Did I scr..... something up? Any ideas on what my mistake I have made or is this normal after the desmog/pair valve removal.

Need some help, please !!!! Don't want to get stuck on the road with an overheated

I didn't notice much difference in performance, just seems the fan is running more often. Most of the decel popping is gone and it seems that the jake brake effect is much less.

Is this something I should worry about? Appreciate any advice.
 

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while that method of blocking is ok its not going to last.

as for the gurgling, did you take the time to clean
your rad cap?
 

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Could be water in the hoses (condensation). This always happens when the pair system is blocked but not removed.
 

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SeoulRider"]I used two 1/2 inch oil hoses to plug off the reed valves,

That's just fine, no hose is going to rot off in a year or more.
Again they are too short to amount to any gagging moisture.
I can tell you and everyone else about condensation in real time.
I thought mine was still in stock set up, till I took off aircleaner.
It was then I discovered someone prior inserted an allen bolt at the airbox in hose from Pair system.
Every bit off hose from airbox to both heads were full of water.

I drove it all last summer with out one issue.
I changed it all just a couple weeks ago to block off plates.
It ran just fine.

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SeoulRider:
After completing the job, I started the engine and after it warms up I get a odd sound gurguling or something like that from the rear cylinder exhaust pipe.

Hard to say why, maybe check the plugs after a while to see what they say.
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SeoulRider:
I took a ride today and was stuck in traffic, it was around 85-90 degrees out and it seems that the radiator fan kicked on more often than it normally does at this temperature.

Need some help, please !!!! Don't want to get stuck on the road with an overheated .....

Here's what I do,, if stuck in hot traffic.
Get the heck off, even if taking the shoulder to the next ramp.
That hour sitting there is just going to torture you and the machine.
I never let mine run for more than a minute in stalled traffic , or 5 min traffic lights.
Shut if off, and let the fan cool it down some. Then when it looks like you can move, restart.

At some time, just like it has happened to myself and hundreds of others, the fan will not come on because of damaged temp switch in radiator that turns on the fan. There is a narrow margin sitting when the fan comes on at 212f, to get the temp down. If you start to loose coolant, then danger mode is about to occur. This is when the engine wishes it had 20/50.

You just need to practice heat management. The fan is saying,,,, get moving..
 

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3 other things you can do:

1. drain and flush coolant and fill with engine ICE

2. use full synthetic oil, amsoil is very good.

3. use a Bucks cooler ... it is simply finned aluminum
that wraps around the oil filter and acts like a heat sink ...
also protects the filter from rocks etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My questions are:

1) Is it normal for the engine rear cylinder to run hotter after doing the desmog/pair valve removal, esp. the rear cylinder??? Or does this have something to do with the length of the exhuast pipe, the HK 2-1/2 inch rear exhaust pipe is much shorter than the front pipe.


2) Is their anything that would cause a decrease in exhaust gas flow from the rear cylinder at the exhaust after doing the desmog??? Is it possible since the length of the front cylinder pipe is much longer will that make it feel like a stronger pulse at the end of the pipe?

3) Is there anything that I might have done incorrectly when I did the desmog that would cause the rear cylinder to run hotter than the front cylinder or cause a power loss.

4) Or is this all normal after the desmog.
 

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if the pair valve is not properly sealed it could leak air but
then the bike would pop all the time.
 

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SeoulRider said:
My questions are:

1) Is it normal for the engine rear cylinder to run hotter after doing the desmog/pair valve removal, esp. the rear cylinder??? Or does this have something to do with the length of the exhuast pipe, the HK 2-1/2 inch rear exhaust pipe is much shorter than the front pipe.


2) Is their anything that would cause a decrease in exhaust gas flow from the rear cylinder at the exhaust after doing the desmog??? Is it possible since the length of the front cylinder pipe is much longer will that make it feel like a stronger pulse at the end of the pipe?

3) Is there anything that I might have done incorrectly when I did the desmog that would cause the rear cylinder to run hotter than the front cylinder or cause a power loss.

4) Or is this all normal after the desmog.

1) This is not normal.
2) Not unless you did something you weren't supposed to.
3) Possibly; I just can't think what it might be.
4) See answer #1.

It's hard to diagnose things like this over the web; get someone close to you to look at it and figure it out. It sounds like something unrelated to the desmog procedure just happened to occur at the right time. You might try checking the head temps on your bike and someone else's after riding them; use one of those laser thermometers. Not to put you down, but you might just be imagining it all; you might be looking too hard for something to be amiss after you worked on it. Good luck.
 

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Exile said:
3. use a Bucks cooler ... it is simply finned aluminum
that wraps around the oil filter and acts like a heat sink ...
also protects the filter from rocks etc.
That is a good idea - passive cooling & protection. The Yamaha Road Star filter mount area is a bit different than the VTX, did you have to make any mods to the finning or does Buck offer one specifically for the VTX?

Buck's Oil Filter Protector/Cooler: http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=19
 
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