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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just joined to get some info on my Grandsons 2004 1300c VTX. This is his FIRST bike ever he is almost 21 yrs old.
I'm 65 years old and a machinist/ maintenance machinist. Served a 5 year apprenticeship in Manchester England then emigrated to the states at 25. Been a maint. machinist ever since i emigrated, retired in 2014. Played with cars, bikes all my life and spent the last 30 years working in a nuke plant.

Bike is a 2004 VTX1300c with 4,500 miles, YES 4,500 miles.
Absolute beauty except the front cylinder keeps cutting out.
Got the bike and cleaned the carb, petcock, fuel tank, air filter etc.etc.
Replaced any vacuum lines and fuel lines, installed inline fuel filter. New battery.
Can only get about 3 miles before losing front cylinder and all 4 plugs sooting up from a rich mixture. Rear cylinder always works, front works intermittently.
Just got through checking wiring for loss of continuity but non found from ecm to coils, side stand too, waiting on a manual for schematics.
New front coil, rear coil checks out good for resistance, checked old front coil and it was good too. checked continuity of coil feed wires, SAT.
Removed air cleaner and filter to get more air into engine. Took it for a run and it was spitting back through carb and bucking.
This bike only has 4,500 miles and runs terrible after 3 miles even after cleaning the plugs.
We bought the bike from the second owner who only put 600 miles on it.
Original owner put Cobra pipes on and it is LOUD. Don't know if they re jetted and went too large, it certainly appears so. Waiting on a manual showing up to see schematics.
Will be putting "jumper wires" to feed coils tomorrow.
Does the ecm ever go bad on these bikes?
Shame that such a nice looking bike is acting like this, grandson was turning a corner and it cut out and he dropped it. He's ok but this rough running isn't helping him learn to ride. I have a 2009 Triumph Speedmaster that's "only" 865cc but a lot nimbler than the vtx so i'm hoping to convince him to try it.

Des.
 

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Welcome to the VTXOA!
A long term parked in place causes carb issues.
You cleaned the carb, what jets are in it? #195 and #55 are the stock jets.
Did you check the Air Cutoff Valve diaphragm and accelerator pump diaphragm?
Did you clean the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes/jets?
Sparkplug cap to Sparkplug cap should measure from 32k ohms to 36kohms.
The 1300 ICM with extremely short wires can break.. Usually the most forward two wires.
I have info in the Step by Step board.
I believe one Ignition coil wire broke at the terminal to the coil. Rare event, not mine.
No problems with the ICM unit, only the short wires that break.
Blue/Yellow is third in line at top terminals. The two to the right are the wires
that tend to break. https://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/1300-icm-connector-png.137700/
At the front Ignition coil is the Common Electronics Ground, make sure the terminals are clean and then greased to prevent oxidation.

MR VTX Carb 101

I rode a 2009 Triumph America back in 2012 in Germany and Austria.
Wide open 160km (100mph) on the Autobahn.
It was very similar in weight+handling to my Yamaha XS850
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone for the warm welcome, looks like the bike has the "short wire" syndrome. I didn't work on it today but will do tomorrow. I'm going to run new wires to the coils first. Any ideas on whether the wires break in the main run of the harness or is it mainly just in the "tight bend" area. Not dealt with Honda too much but surely they could have used a larger wire. I guess all that extra copper amounts to savings over the years. I'll report back later with results.
 

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ICM wires break at the o-ring seal in the connector.
Pull out the headlight and tail light fuses(to reduce load on the battery)
Remove ICM connector, now you can test for continuity.
IGN switch ON, Kill switch in Run position puts +12v on IGN coils.
With a test lamp now test and wiggle for opens on the front IGN coil wire.
I save an old headlight as the test lamp, it draws amps.
A link to pix I added showing broken ICM wires.
 

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Welcome to the board where your questions will be answered
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Strange things happen when i play with electricity, I was checking continuity with an ohm meter. I have already cleaned ground wire and engine case and bolt. Ground wire is 0 ohms off the bike
+ on engine case
- on battery lug
0 ohms
Then turned ignition on 13.52 ohms. WHAT is going on! i wonder if the meter detects voltage and then shows 13.6 volts.
Put - onto strands of ground cable and left +on case 6 ohms.
Cable end to cable end was 0 ohms OFF the bike.
Why it changes is beyond me
Green wire was ok 0 ohms, removed from plug 0 ohms
Black wire seemed open then 0 ohms when in connector and fluctuated some times, removed from connector 0 ohms every time.
Should i put a Bulb in series instead of using the ohm meter?
Ive not got the manual yet but i wonder if there's wires going to the headlamp and then going to the kill switch ( i think i read there was somewhere in the postings).
 

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Strange things happen when i play with electricity, I was checking continuity with an ohm meter. I have already cleaned ground wire and engine case and bolt. Ground wire is 0 ohms off the bike
+ on engine case
- on battery lug
0 ohms
Then turned ignition on 13.52 ohms. WHAT is going on! i wonder if the meter detects voltage and then shows 13.6 volts.
Put - onto strands of ground cable and left +on case 6 ohms.
Cable end to cable end was 0 ohms OFF the bike.
Why it changes is beyond me
Green wire was ok 0 ohms, removed from plug 0 ohms
Black wire seemed open then 0 ohms when in connector and fluctuated some times, removed from connector 0 ohms every time.
Should i put a Bulb in series instead of using the ohm meter?
Ive not got the manual yet but i wonder if there's wires going to the headlamp and then going to the kill switch ( i think i read there was somewhere in the postings).
You should NEVER check voltage with the meter on the OHMs setting! You probably are reading voltage, but change the meter setting to DCVolts. Maybe the meter itself is faulty. I am no electrical whiz either, but I actually have 4 meters. A good one, a cheapie, an older analog, and a analog clamp-on Ammeter/ multimeter.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
rangers4u, I'll try explain how the meter was set up a little clearer. Pos. lead on crankcase within 1" of ground cable, Neg. lead on Neg.battery post, meter on 200 Ohm scale = O ohms on meter display.
Keeping everything the same But turn on ignition switch then get 13.5 on meter display.
No circuit is being made with the positive, therefore it can't read voltage or at least shouldn't. So i can only think that turning on the ignition switch gives a less resistive reading than the ground wire i had already measured at 0 ohms when it was removed from the bike.
I have a Simpson 260 and a Gardener Bender digital meter (G&B was only $18 at Lowes.)
The bike starts first time and runs for maybe 2 miles before acting up. This leads me to believe that when current starts flowing and the bike is getting warmed up then the coil starts to cut in and out or whatever trigger the coil starts acting up. Not found ANY broken wires YET, ( i wish i could).
 

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rangers4u, I'll try explain how the meter was set up a little clearer. Pos. lead on crankcase within 1" of ground cable, Neg. lead on Neg.battery post, meter on 200 Ohm scale = O ohms on meter display.
Keeping everything the same But turn on ignition switch then get 13.5 on meter display.
No circuit is being made with the positive, therefore it can't read voltage or at least shouldn't. So i can only think that turning on the ignition switch gives a less resistive reading than the ground wire i had already measured at 0 ohms when it was removed from the bike.
I have a Simpson 260 and a Gardener Bender digital meter (G&B was only $18 at Lowes.)
The bike starts first time and runs for maybe 2 miles before acting up. This leads me to believe that when current starts flowing and the bike is getting warmed up then the coil starts to cut in and out or whatever trigger the coil starts acting up. Not found ANY broken wires YET, ( i wish i could).
Thanks for the info, wish I could help beyond my limited knowledge. There are a couple regular experts on here, maybe they'll chime in. (Hans & Feet, Chicago Spike, Sojourner, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Took the headlight out to see if any mice had been in there while it sat for years, NO mice or bad wires, may buy another ecm. Running out of ideas and patience.
 
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