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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the ground fix and the bike is still stalling out. I can make it happen if I crack the throttle open, but as my ride goes on it gets worse and worse until it finally just stalls out.

I checked the voltage on the battery at idle and it was between 12 - 13 v.

What do I do next?

Do I buy a new battery and try it? How do I know it isn't my charging system that is acting up?

Would my fouled plug be a cause or an effect of my problem?
 

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If you have not done this already,
check your battery cable connections for tightness.
They tend to loosen up from engine and road vibration after
a few thousand miles.

At most dealers' shops, the mechanics are mechanics and not
electricians. Typically they will replace a battery first,
then if there is still a charging problem they will replace
the rectifier or regulator and finally replace the alternator,
since that is the most expensive and the most work.

On our bikes the rectifier/regulator is one unit,
so that will save you a step, but will cost a bit more than
separate units

Certainly a fouled plug could be a cause of your problems,
but I would bet that the battery cables are loose.

Also, if you have a lightbar on your bike, try not to leave it
on when you are idling or running in slow traffic where your
radiator cooling fan might kick in to cool the bike.

Run your high beam during the daytime if the reason you run a lightbar
is so that oncoming traffic will notice you for safety.

Your battery will charge up better if there is less of a load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Coyote for the advice.

No lightbars, and I've tightened the battery terminals already.

What is odd is that the bike will run fine for about 5 - 10 minutes, but then it just starts sputtering. A lot of the guys here at work are saying bad gas, but that doesn't seem to make sense to me. The problem isn't constant. I'll go buy some dry-gas just to rule it out.

I'll probably go buy a battery too, my logic being that it is a 2005, manufactured on 08/04. I bought it last year so the battery has almost 3 years on it. Cost of a battery is probably about an hour of tech time at the shop. Very frustrating, I need to get her up and running in time for the honda homecoming.
 

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Here's the stupid question of the day, or maybe not.....you mentioned the fouled plug.....have you replaced the plugs yet? A fouled plug will definately cause it to run this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well not such a silly question after all. I haven't. I took the fouled plug to be a symptom not the cause.

I can tell you it isn't the battery, cause my brand spanking new one is installed and the problem still exists. It seems that I have to get the bike hot before the problem starts showing itself.

I guess I might as well do the plugs before I breakdown and take her to the shop.

Where's a good place to get plugs quickly :)
 

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You can get plugs at most auto parts stores. There is a great cross reference list of plugs that fit the 1800 at http://bareasschoppers.com/plugs/

I think you'll find that new plugs take care of the problem.

Tina
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow I look at those plug pictures and what I considered to be fouled is marked as good.

I'm going to wait until she cools down then I'll pop them out again to take another peek.
 

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My wifes 1300 started doing this very same thing.. longer the bike ran the worse it got. Dont know ir it would be for the same reason as on a 1800.
It was in and out of the shop 3 or 4 times each time they thought they fixed it only to have it pop back up. So to finally fix this problem I traded it in on a 1800 N.. Now her bike dosnt die in a turn or while trying to pull out in traffic... Imagine that!
 

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Wort said:
I did the ground fix and the bike is still stalling out. I can make it happen if I crack the throttle open, but as my ride goes on it gets worse and worse until it finally just stalls out.

I checked the voltage on the battery at idle and it was between 12 - 13 v.

What do I do next?

Do I buy a new battery and try it? How do I know it isn't my charging system that is acting up?

Would my fouled plug be a cause or an effect of my problem?
A fully charged battery will probably show 12-13v or even higher. You have to run the battery down a little in order to determine if you charging system is working. Have you taken a voltage reading with a load on it? I bought a battery tester that puts a load on the battery when checking it. If your battery seems to start the bike good then I suggest checking for other problems.

Have you considered the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator? The symtoms sure indicate either could be the problem. I changed my fuel filter at 12k. Even though the tank looked clean, I couldn't believe how much stuff came out of the old filter when I backflushed it. I ran about a quart of clean water through it and I could not see through the fine particals in the glass jar.

All it takes is one fill up of bad gas to cause problems because the filter is pretty small. I never fill any of my vehicles where a tanker truck is filling the gas station tanks and stirring up the sediment. Unfortunately there is no way of knowing if the tanker truck had just left. The station pump filters are not effective in filtering the very fine particles our bikes filter out of the gas.

Just my best guess from experience.
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well Apache truer words have never been spoken. I posted this over at www.mixriders.com.

Eureka the bike is running strong.

Here are the steps.

1. Do the ground fix.
2. Pull a spark plug and review for fouling. (helps if you think it is fouled)
3. Buy a new battery.
4. Think about buying new plugs.
5. Throw your hands up in the air and call the dealer to make an appointment.
6. Take dealer's advice and put dry gas in the tank. (no charge for advice)
7. Problem solved!!

I think this shows that I'm a pessimist. Always expecting the worse, and overlooking the easy.

Either way, my bike is like Forest Gump - SHE IS A RUNNIN'
 

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Are you sucking air/air leak?? Check your exhaust. I've also heard that others have found the throttle body loose.

Good luck
 

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Just a suggestion. Since the problem manifests itself once the engine warms up, I'm thinking an electronic breakdown (I speedread through this thread and didn't see this suggested; my apologies if I missed it) once the components get hot. I don't have my manual handy, but you might try checking your coils hot and cold to see if the problem lies there; hopefully the manual will give you some specs on that. Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ARGH, my problem is back. Clearly not a bad gas issue. I was broken down completely. My buddy with me thought it sounded like the bike was starving for fuel. He also thought the fuel pump sounded a bit weak when I turned on the key.

I'm going to chase down a clymer manual and dive deeper.

I'm wondering if my fuel pump is flaking out.

I read the article about the 2005 fuel pumps, but mine is working and the bike will start, but she just stalls out. Think it could be related to the sticky fuel pump?
 

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Wort said:
ARGH, my problem is back. Clearly not a bad gas issue. I was broken down completely. My buddy with me thought it sounded like the bike was starving for fuel. He also thought the fuel pump sounded a bit weak when I turned on the key.

I'm going to chase down a clymer manual and dive deeper.

I'm wondering if my fuel pump is flaking out.

I read the article about the 2005 fuel pumps, but mine is working and the bike will start, but she just stalls out. Think it could be related to the sticky fuel pump?
Consider installing a new fuel filter as I mentioned before. At least you can then eliminate that possibility.
 

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hey wort, sorry to hear ur bike is sick. I know how u feel cuz i just went thru this with my 1800...spitting sputtering and backfiring..i tried everything..plugs,ground fix and valve adjusting..nothing worked...not sure if u have a power commander on ur bike but i do..everyone told me to chek the vampire clips on the connecting wires..and that they should be soldered instead..did that..didnt help. Then just to b safe since i didnt know who put it on, i went to powercommander.com to see the install instructions for my bike and chek the wiring diagram..the throttle position sensor lead was hooked up to the wrong wire..rerouted the wire and bingo..the bike is running awesome..hope this helps u or someone else on the forum..good luck
 

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hey wort, sorry to hear ur bike is sick. I know how u feel cuz i just went thru this with my 1800...spitting sputtering and backfiring..i tried everything..plugs,ground fix and valve adjusting..nothing worked...not sure if u have a power commander on ur bike but i do..everyone told me to chek the vampire clips on the connecting wires..and that they should be soldered instead..did that..didnt help. Then just to b safe since i didnt know who put it on, i went to powercommander.com to see the install instructions for my bike and chek the wiring diagram..the throttle position sensor lead was hooked up to the wrong wire..rerouted the wire and bingo..the bike is running awesome..hope this helps u or someone else on the forum..good luck
 

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My money would be on one of the fuel injection sensors. Usually, when cold, the FI dumps fuel into the cylinders. Once it thinks the bike is warm, it starts to alter is fueling based on sensor inputs. One of your sensor inputs is wrong.

First check for any codes. Then double check connections. Pull them apart and check for corrosion.

You may also want to check for leaks into the intake manifold. If a leak is bad enough it lowers the manifold vacuum pressure. The ECU reads this from the MAP sensor as a no/low load condition and cuts fuel.

When looking for a leak remember that it may not be at the manifold itself. It could be a failure along any one of the hoses connected to it, or the component on the other end.

If you find out that it's actually running too much fuel (fouling plugs), i'd check the engine temperature sensor first. It's probably not working and keeping your bike in the "cold" mode too long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's where I am so far :(

It wasn't water in the gas after all I declared victory prematurely. I've taken the bike into the shop and here is what has been done so far.

1. New plugs - ran smoother, but didn't fix it
2. Tested the timing - good - they tell me this means the ECU is good too
3. Compression - good
4. Valve adjustment, one valve out of spec, haven't heard yet, but I suspect no change
5. Today is a fuel pump test

I am bone stock, nothing changed to pipes, fuel system...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just spoke to the dealer. It was a flaky fuel pump.

I also had it wrong, 3 valved were out of tolerance, so I got my valve adjustment 800 miles early. Can't wait to go test her myself.

Honda Homecoming here I come!!!!


:D :D :D
 
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