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Rode my 2006 VTX 1800C2. Drove it during the day. Then jumped on it, hit starter button, starter turned over once or twice. Then nothing. No power to the digital odometer and no lights. Leaving bike at work and wife picking me up. Asked her to bring a voltmeter but she doesn't know what one looks like at the house. I purchased bike 12/31/18 with 5,000 miles. Maybe original battery in it. Any clues to check for, much appreciated.
 

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If it is the OEM battery it had a long life.

You should have used a jumper cable to see if it would come to life.

Oxidation or loose battery connections... Cell went open or inter-cell link broke..

Have NAPA check battery. They generally use a tester that puts a 100 amp load on the battery.
 

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Rented trailer and got it home. Put the voltmeter on it and it showed 12.8 volts. Was going to try and jump start it but... How do you connect legs jumper cables?
 

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That voltage reading means nothing! Like Hans said, take the battery to get it LOAD tested 100 amps. It can show 12+ volts and still have a weak or dead cell or 2, and not have enough kick to turn it over. Spend your $$ on a Yuasa replacement battery, and then an extra $30 for a Battery Tender Jr. and keep it hooked up when not riding. It has been mentioned it takes the same amps to start our VTX's that a small block Chevy V8 does, and yet with 1/3 the size battery.
 

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Happened to me. My fix was the battery cable connections at the battery had vibrated loose.

I would remove them, clean terminals on battery and cables then reinstall and tighten with a socket and ratchet. These need to be checked once in a while.

Good luck and hope this may help.
 

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Measure the battery voltage with the Ign Key ON. Battery posts then the cable terminals on the battery posts..

Another test with volt meter on the battery posts..
1. Transmission in Neutral
2. Place a screwdriver across the Starter Relay bolts with the big cables under them.
It will arc and spark and the engine should crank over.
3. What was the voltage while cranking if it did crank?
 

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I have a question...why is it important to find out if a 13 year old battery is good...what’s wrong with getting new battery and starting(no pun)there....inquiring minds would like to know.....:thumbup:
 

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The same happened to me yesterday.

1500 miles from home (Denver area) in the middle of Sequoia National Park no juice whatsoever. Bike was pointed downhill so rolled it and it started.
Drove 75 miles west to Fresno where it is now at the dealer who will be installing a new stator tomorrow.
Bike is 16 years old and has 95k miles and things happen, but the time and location just is a pain in the you-know-what.
BTW: yes, it ran for 75 miles but it was not happy, it had to be kept at relative high rpm.
But I made it to about 5 miles from dealer, better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
 

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2006 1800 Winlange bought it Dec 2018.
5k miles, parked for a long time.

What is the probability of it being OEM?? Low
If it was on a tender for all the years maybe.
If not on a tender then probably not the OEM.
Usually a replacement battery will have a date code sticker on them, if a distributor filled/charged it.

Winlange - any maintenance records?
 

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The same happened to me yesterday.

1500 miles from home (Denver area) in the middle of Sequoia National Park no juice whatsoever. Bike was pointed downhill so rolled it and it started. Drove 75 miles west to Fresno where it is now at the dealer who will be installing a new stator tomorrow.
Bike is 16 years old and has 95k miles and things happen, but the time and location just is a pain in the you-know-what.
BTW: yes, it ran for 75 miles but it was not happy, it had to be kept at relative high rpm.
But I made it to about 5 miles from dealer, better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
I am on the 2nd replacement Stator and R/R.
The first one was a no crank 20 miles from the house. Four jumps from a vehicle to get home.
2nd failure was detected when my led indicator was off. It lights up at 13.5 volts.

I suggest a volt meter or a led charge indicator so you can see what is going on.
I have a picture of a 3 component charge indicator, 12v zener diode, led, a resistor.

The OEM R/R is a "shunt" regulating unit, it shorts the stator to controls battery voltage.
My 1st replacement R/R was a better shunting regulator.
My 2nd replacement R/R is a series regulating unit, it opens the stator output to control battery voltage.

Replacing filament bulbs with leds means less current needed but more shunting/shorting required to regulate the DC voltage.
 

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Take the battery to Autozone and have them load test it. It may read as GOOD, but if a cell or two is bad inside, it won't have enough juice to power things up or start. If it's the original battery, that's now 14 years old, buy a new battery. They only last average of 2-4 years
 

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I am on the 2nd replacement Stator and R/R.
The first one was a no crank 20 miles from the house. Four jumps from a vehicle to get home.
2nd failure was detected when my led indicator was off. It lights up at 13.5 volts.

I suggest a volt meter or a led charge indicator so you can see what is going on.
I have a picture of a 3 component charge indicator, 12v zener diode, led, a resistor.

The OEM R/R is a "shunt" regulating unit, it shorts the stator to controls battery voltage.
My 1st replacement R/R was a better shunting regulator.
My 2nd replacement R/R is a series regulating unit, it opens the stator output to control battery voltage.

Replacing filament bulbs with leds means less current needed but more shunting/shorting required to regulate the DC voltage.

Thanks Hans. Knowing that this is a normal 'things wear out' repair makes me feel much better.
I spent an hour this morning looking online at Goldwings and then reading about all the extra work and expense needed to make that bike usable for long distance riding for a 6'6" guy, it just made me shiver.
I am happy with the perfect fit on my X with Ultimate Bigboy and footpegs.

This is really only the first time the bike did not get me home in my 10th summer and the 81k miles since I bought it at 14k.

Not bad at all.
 

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I’m sure Han’s could have built me one....but Ive had this kury unit on my bike...since almost new and has worked as it should...comes in black also...:grin2:
same here:

 

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Thanks Hans. Knowing that this is a normal 'things wear out' repair makes me feel much better.

This is really only the first time the bike did not get me home in my 10th summer and the 81k miles since I bought it at 14k.

Not bad at all.
Stator and R/R > "Normal things that wear out" -- not in my opinion.

VTX R/R must be 80's technology.

PC's in 1991 were using PWM to control voltage.
My newest R/R probably came out 2010 or so. I saw several then, they were pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To get it home I rented a trailer. Got it home but decided to take it this morning to Honda of Simi Valley while I still had the trailer. They checked the battery and the printout read good. Key was off, turned it on and display came on, but as soon as you pressed the starter button, everything went blank. Left bike there and took trailer back to U-Haul. They have a 2 week backlog so will be riding my Honda 2002 ST1100 every day.
 

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To get it home I rented a trailer. Got it home but decided to take it this morning to Honda of Simi Valley while I still had the trailer. They checked the battery and the printout read good. Key was off, turned it on and display came on, but as soon as you pressed the starter button, everything went blank. Left bike there and took trailer back to U-Haul. They have a 2 week backlog so will be riding my Honda 2002 ST1100 every day.
Post up when you get it fixed and what the problem was.
Did you check the battery cable connections?
Your description of the problem is exactly the same as what I had.
 

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Stator and R/R > "Normal things that wear out" -- not in my opinion.

VTX R/R must be 80's technology.

PC's in 1991 were using PWM to control voltage.
My newest R/R probably came out 2010 or so. I saw several then, they were pricey.

This is how I read your response: considering the technology they USED, it can wear out, but, if they would have used better technology it should not.


Correct?
 

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This is how I read your response: considering the technology they USED, it can wear out, but, if they would have used better technology it should not. Correct?
Component failure not wear.
Points to electronic ignition. Points had wear on the rubbing pad and migration of metal on the contacts faces = wear

Auto Voltage regulator from relays to solid state. The only wear item now is the brushes in the alternator.

The VTX R/R uses brute force(short the stator to ground) which creates high current and heat,
where later technology opens the circuit from the stator when less voltage/current is required.

The shorting/high current cycles eventually cause breakdown in a regulator component or the stator winding insulation fails.
 

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Happened to me. My fix was the battery cable connections at the battery had vibrated loose.

I would remove them, clean terminals on battery and cables then reinstall and tighten with a socket and ratchet. These need to be checked once in a while.

Good luck and hope this may help.
when i installed my last battery (Yuasa) i bought longer stainless bolts and 2 stainless lock washers, this helped the aftermarket accessories power and ground rings too. But with that lockwasher it seems to work been about 2 years never a problem. Just have to make sure the bolts aren't too long, otherwise they will "bottom out" on the battery case when tightening (making you think its tight).

EDIT ADD: i used the lockwasher on top, the bolt head side.
 
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