I'll give it a shot , thank you .
Process of elimination starts with the BATTERY. Just because you have lights, etc., it's putting out 12V, but could have a weak cell or more. Fully charge it, take it to an auto parts vendor that will do a free 100AMP load test. NOT the 20 amp motorcycle load test. These beasts take the same cold cranking amps to start that a Chevy V8 takes, from a battery less than half its size. Get back to us after you've done this. The 1800 is a finicky beast and a properly maintained fully functioning battery is crucial.
Good one. I've owned my ride over 11 years now, and I can count on one hand with fingers left over the number of times I've had to use the kill switch.
I don't disagree. Actually, to be clear, I agree.
Had the same issue. Had me scratching my head. Mine would click or bump the starter then continue to click. I charged the battery fully and hit the starter sometimes start right up but mostly click. Turned out it was the starter relay. I'd mess around with the main battery cables and it would start , shut it down and it would start right back up. Sit for awhile and click. Turned out the top of the selonoid was corroded and needed replaced. Selonoid looked good till I pulled it and actually looked at in my hand. Good luck , vtx is an awesome machine no cliff necessary. TTT(MIKE)
Have you tried shorting the cables across the top of the solenoid? That should make it turn over regardless of switches if you have good current from the battery.
It turns out that my trickle charger is on the fritz . It won't go higher than 11.5 volts . Charging the battery overnight on it didn't help a bit . While I was looking for bad fuses , corrosion , etc . , I came across a very shaky looking buss fuse . The previous owner had piaa lights mounted on the lower forks . The plastic fuse holder had some melting on it and one end of the fuse was welded to the contact . I replaced the buss setup with a new spade fuse and holder . I charged the battery off of my car with jumper cables for a couple of hours . The beast fired right up . And three times since in the last two days .
Spend ~ $30 on a Battery Tender Jr. Charges in tenths of an amp. Most trickle chargers are in the 2-2.5 amp range, which isn't bad. A Scumacher charger will charge @ 2-10-50 amp range. 10 is good for overnight. Glad you caught that bad buss connection. As you've probably deduced, those PIAA lights are good and bright, draw a lot of amps, thats probably what cooked the connection. Switching out to LED's will use a tenth of the amp draw, throw as much focussed light, and be easier on your entire electrical system, and free up some juice if you decide to add something else to the bike.
Will I need to get entirely new housings and led lights or is there an led that will plug in directly ? And will I need to modify my wiring , like adding a diode to the circuit ?
I charged the hell out of the battery and replaced a half burnt looking buss fuss out for a new spade type with new wiring to and from it . Started like it was new . Right on , no cliff necessary . The solenoid looked pretty solid too .
Most LED's have their own complete unit, If you get lucky your search may turn up an LED that might fit. My LED's are on their own circuit, handlebar switch, and wired through a 6 circuit fuse block that runs right off the battery. I'm guessing that yours might be wired into your headlight bucket, and your hi-lo switch? Hans & Feet is our electrical guru on here. Hopefully he will see this and be able to help you.
rangers4u suggested that I replace the piaa lights that are mounted on the forks with LEDs . I don't know if there are LEDs that plug into the same sockets or do I need to get the housing with the LED in it ?
Cool .
