Honda VTX Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m going to be very careful how I word this because I know when the topic of the “O” word comes up ppl loose it, friendships are lost & everyone seems to get their shorts in a knot & sometimes bare knuckle brawls arise… (I was just kidding about the last part ?)

I would like to ask what brand of oil+ the weight you’re using & also what change intervals? Yes I know that as long as it’s not “energy conserving” There are many good synthetics out there.

Right now I’m running Motul 7100 in a 10W40 weight. My X runs great, gears are quiet , smooth & I honestly have no complaints except for one thing….. The price! It costs me approx. $85.00 a gallon (actually 4 liters cz a Gallon is 3.78L) albeit this is Canadian funds so it may be cheaper for most of you in the US, I’m looking for other options.

I heard & read some positive reviews about Mobil 1 4T, Rotella T6 , Amsoil & Royal Purple to name just a few.

Please keep in mind I’m not asking for debates or arguments, just your feedback based on your experiences if you’ve dabbled in different engine lubricants. I know sometimes ppl will just respond by saying “keep using what you’re using if it works” but I’d like something slightly more thought provoking than that sort of generic answer.

I really don’t have any brand loyalty to any company & the only reason I stuck to Motul is because the previous owner said that’s all he used & never had any issues. I’m pretty open minded & if there’s anything just as good or even better I’m game to try something else provided it’s a little more reasonably priced.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,528 Posts
At the high end, Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle oil.


At the cost conscious level, Rotella T4 15W40.


What's the difference? Well one costs significantly more than the other. If you change your oil regularly and pay attention to how you use your bike, ie, riding in very dusty conditions vs on the slab or in town, then there ios absolutely no difference but price. For a liquid cooled bike, people put way too oil much thought into oil, IMO. Some experience different shifting characteristics with different oils, or different clutch feel, and that's when you need to decide which you want to use. Some here use Walmart house oil and their bikes haven't blown up yet. There is a lot of information in that message alone.


When I had my VTX I used everything from Amsoil 10W40 bike oil to Rotella T3 (the forerunner of T4) 15W40. It all worked really well. I used Amsoil especially if I had a long trip scheduled. I wasn't sure if I would exceed the factory recommended drain interval. BUT, if IO were being completely honest, if someone else did the oil change, and put one or the other in, they could have lied to me about brand and I would have believed them. An air cooled bike is a bit different, but the VTX is happiest with regular service, regardless of brand. That said, 10W40 is what you need. Rotella 15W40 is fine for the summer or unless you plan on starting your bike cold in freezing temps. Anything 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, 15W40 should be fine. Part ofd the secret too is making sure it is JASO MA or JASO M2 rated. Many use oil that is not and their clutches are fine, but unless it's so rated, you don't really know for certain. Just my opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,885 Posts
Always used Rotella T6 with no issues. Change oil yearly as I have appx 5-7K miles on it. I've tried them all. I started on Rotella since I got the X.
Oil shear (engine & trans shared) is my biggest concern..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
Yes........













LOL

Okay. The VTX is new to me and I have not yet changed the oil. In my Shadow I used the Honda GN oil for much of the time I owned it, switching to Shell T6, after much research, last season. I noted that the shifting felt smoother. I did not notice any other positive or adverse affects. T6 will be going in the VTX in the spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,602 Posts
Mobile One.. full synthetic 10w40 automotive oil.. and Fram oil filter...

since 3,000 miles NEW.. 85,000 currently, and doing fine..

no explosion. no knocks. no loss of oil..

every 10,000 miles or once a year... since the 3,000 mile mark.

same with the past Goldwing.. 90,000 miles
same with the past Goldwing before that.. 149,000 miles..

all 3 bikes from New.

my unprofessional Opinion.


REMEMBER the 3,000 mile oil change..

was Made for when engines did NOT have oil filters..
it was dino oil.. crude oil.. just stuff out of the ground and filtered.


any Name brand... at the price you can afford... and meets Honda spec's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Mobile One.. full synthetic 10w40 automotive oil.. and Fram oil filter...

since 3,000 miles NEW.. 85,000 currently, and doing fine..

no explosion. no knocks. no loss of oil..

every 10,000 miles or once a year... since the 3,000 mile mark.

same with the past Goldwing.. 90,000 miles
same with the past Goldwing before that.. 149,000 miles..

all 3 bikes from New.

my unprofessional Opinion.


REMEMBER the 3,000 mile oil change..

was Made for when engines did NOT have oil filters..
it was dino oil.. crude oil.. just stuff out of the ground and filtered.


I guess it's not an energy conserving oil and is okay for wet clutches?
I made the classic mistake many years ago of putting automotive oil in my Honda Shadow. I had no idea it was not compatible with wet clutches hence I thought I needed a new clutch.
I felt the slippage almost immediately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,602 Posts
I guess it's not an energy conserving oil and is okay for wet clutches?
I made the classic mistake many years ago of putting automotive oil in my Honda Shadow. I had no idea it was not compatible with wet clutches hence I thought I needed a new clutch.
I felt the slippage almost immediately.



correct.. please read the little round label... as long as label does NOT say energy conserving


its good for the wet clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,391 Posts
I change around 6000 miles with T6. I never check oil between changes just mileage and then do it all again. Usually $21 for a gal here at wallymart. I believe the most important thing to remember is that you be accurate in adding the exact amount of oil your bike calls for. Won't hurt to be just a smidgin over but try and make sure you hit the mark next time.

Double check the best way to check your oil level after it has warmed up.

It takes me 10 minutes to purchase oil/filter.
30 minutes to change oil and clean up.
Less than $30 and 40 minutes of my time total, is in my opinion, an excellent investment in the lifeblood of my toy and my peace of mind. :smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,602 Posts
,
Fyi.. AMSOIL.. used to be named AMZOIL...


I was a AMZOIL dealer back then.. 70's, 80's
. on the packaging ... One Year or 25,000 mile oil changes...
and it did go the miles.
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
Have used Amsoil and now due to cost use Rotella T6. Chang the oil every 6000 miles. Shift smooth and never had a problem and uses no oil between changes. 05 1300 with 68000 miles.
I do remember the first time I put Amsoil in it felt like it shifted much smoother. Rotella T6 can usually be found on sale at Auto Parts store on sale for 20-15 a gallon and free filter. No brainer for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,579 Posts
{old thread}
Have always used full synthetic oil in the VTX, various brands, Mobil 1 Automotive, Diesel, and MC 4T, Rotella T6, and I used Royal Purple in it once when I first got it. Always changed oil and filter at about 5000 miles until the last change. Have been using Mobil 1 10/40 Racing 4T for a few years now. Since I usually put about 4000 miles a year on the bike, I change it at 8000 miles now or about every 2 years and the oil still looks pretty good. Have used several different oil filters over the years, NAPA Gold, K & N, Honda and Supertech. I pretty much use Supertech ST6670 all the time now. AFAIC the $2.50 Supertech oil filter does a great job.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top