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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking about doing a few things to the bike and I'm looking for some feedback from you guys with more experience. If you want to respond to one or more of these issues that would be great.

1. Oil change. The dealer wants $92, including oil. This is the 4000 mile first change. Should i do myself? Should I replace filter with OEM and should I use Honda recommended or synthetic?

2. I installed the Walmart 50w lights under the bar below the headlamp. Don't know if anyone else attempted this and can post the DIY if anyone is interested. I haven't hooked up electrical yet cause my wish is that they run concurrently with the Hi-beams. Does anyone know how to tie these in to the hi-beams only? I 'm nervous about the existing wiring having to carry the additional load and won't try it if there is potential for harming stock setup. Dealer said they'd wire for $175 but what's the purpose of getting the $20 Walmart lights then?

3. I'm thinking about replacing the stock pipes with a pair of Samson Warlords. Any opinion on these? Is this something I can do myself and what is the point of removing the "pair valve". I don't know what this is or what it does.

4. I guess I would install a K&N air filter at the same time. I think I read on here that if you disconnect the battery after installing the pipes and the filter that the on-board computer will automatically reset the appropriate fuel mixture and buying programmable unit isn't necessary. Any thoughts on this?
 

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I'm thinking about doing a few things to the bike and I'm looking for some feedback from you guys with more experience. If you want to respond to one or more of these issues that would be great.

1. Oil change. The dealer wants $92, including oil. This is the 4000 mile first change. Should i do myself? Should I replace filter with OEM and should I use Honda recommended or synthetic?
Do it yourself, see http://tech.bareasschoppers.com on how to do that. Honda OEM filters are good. Honda oil...Honda doesn't make oil. They put out a contract bid and the lowest bidder gets the contract to bottle oil and slap a Honda label on it and charge you TOP DOLLAR for that cheap oil. You can buy better oil and go full synthetic for the same price. AMSOIL or Mobil 1 are teh top 2

2. I installed the Walmart 50w lights under the bar below the headlamp. Don't know if anyone else attempted this and can post the DIY if anyone is interested. I haven't hooked up electrical yet cause my wish is that they run concurrently with the Hi-beams. Does anyone know how to tie these in to the hi-beams only? I 'm nervous about the existing wiring having to carry the additional load and won't try it if there is potential for harming stock setup. Dealer said they'd wire for $175 but what's the purpose of getting the $20 Walmart lights then?
You don;t want to add that lighting to the existing headlight wiring. You'll fry the starter switch. Go to the "How To;Step-by-Step" board and look under teh "1800 Electrical" thread on how to add a relay to the starter button to avoid the fried button

3. I'm thinking about replacing the stock pipes with a pair of Samson Warlords. Any opinion on these? Is this something I can do myself and what is the point of removing the "pair valve". I don't know what this is or what it does.
Sampsons = loudest pipes out there. If you have neighbors and leave early, I wouldn't. Not great for power either.
The PAIR assembly is only an anti-smog device. It injects fresh air into the exhaust ports to help burn off unspent gasses. By removing the assembly you will only really be cleaning up the top of the motor and ensuring that no condensation will build up inside the system if it was capped or plugged by installing an aftermarket air box. When swapping exhaust pipes, removing the pair system will help reduce or eliminate the decell pop we read so much about. No performance gains, no fuel mileage increase, just better sounds/deeper note from the exhaust. Find instructions on removing that on http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/vtx-1800-desmog/


4. I guess I would install a K&N air filter at the same time. I think I read on here that if you disconnect the battery after installing the pipes and the filter that the on-board computer will automatically reset the appropriate fuel mixture and buying programmable unit isn't necessary. Any thoughts on this?
You can disconnect the battery, but we don;t think it resets anything. It won't hurt either.
Read the following from the “Sticky” thread called “Air,Fuel,Motor,Missives…” http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21749 and the first post by Tapper. The entire post is filled with great information on the VTX engine.
 

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Not sure but isn't there a legal issue with running road lights w/ the high beam on? I know all the stock stuff only works on low beam.

Doubt anyone would ever stop you for it, but might cause a problem at inspection time.
 

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Not sure but isn't there a legal issue with running road lights w/ the high beam on? I know all the stock stuff only works on low beam.

Doubt anyone would ever stop you for it, but might cause a problem at inspection time.
Yep, you would be right. If you have bike inspections, you might think twice on that
 

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mods

Hey man,
No idea on the wiring lights and all.
But I would also like to know about the pair valve.
The pipe/filter computer reset thing is interesting. I just installed a set of V&H Crusers on my '05 1300R, the install was painless, did it all myself. Just be sure to get the specified crush washer for your bike, or you may have some leaks. And some nasty popping or backfiring.
Good luck with your mods, be sure to post pics !!
 

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The pipe/filter computer reset thing is interesting. I just installed a set of V&H Crusers on my '05 1300R...
The 1300's don't have the "computer," only the 1800's. It has to do with the fuel injection. 1300 owners have to mess with the carb (jet kit).
 

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The PAIR assembly is only an anti-smog device. It injects fresh air into the exhaust ports to help burn off unspent gasses. By removing the assembly you will only really be cleaning up the top of the motor and ensuring that no condensation will build up inside the system if it was capped or plugged by installing an aftermarket air box. When swapping exhaust pipes, removing the pair system will help reduce or eliminate the decell pop we read so much about. No performance gains, no fuel mileage increase, just better sounds/deeper note from the exhaust. Find instructions on removing that on http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/vtx-1800-desmog/
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for these great responses and helpful links! I don't want excessively loud pipes so I guess I'll avoid the Samsons. Is there a power advantage with the Cobra slip-ons? I guess another way to put it is do you have to start with the exhaust pipe if you hope to add power?
 

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Best way to get more from an engine is to start with the "breathing" or the airbox and the exhaust. The faster and smoother you get the air in and out, the better the engine performs.
Slip-on systems will be about the same as the OEM pipes but sound a little louder.
Full systems can go either way, lose power or gain power.
The top 4 full systems are;
Vance&Hines
Jardine Drags
Supertrap megaphone
Muzzy Stainless​
 

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Discussion Starter #11
follow-up question about installing lights

Two lights, each has a separate ground wire. Can they be tied together and hooked to one ground location or must each be connected to a separate ground?
 

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The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration writes the rules
for equipment on all vehicles to be used on highways in the
United States. Their rule on auxiliary lighting (fog lights)
is that the lights should only come on with the low beam and should go
out when you switch to high beam.
The regulations of each states motor vehicle department must
conform to the NHTSA regulations or the Federal government will
withhold funding to the state for highway maintnenance and
law enforcement.
All vehicle manufacturers are required to wire any auxiliary lights
to conform to the NHTSA regulations, so the fog lights on
your car or truck will go out when the high beam is switched on.

You can wire your relay so that those lights stay on regardless
of whether you are using high or low beam, or you can wire
them so that they come on with the high beam only,
however, if you live in a state that has annual safety inspections
a thorough inspector might notice that your aux lights are
in violation and will fail you for inspection until you correct the
problem. Some states don't have annual inspections, or their
inspectors are lax. Some states have their Highway Patrol
LEOs (Law Enforcement Officers) perform roadside inspections,
in which case if you do not conform, they write you a ticket.
I have a brother in Oklahoma, and he says that the police
are notorious for writing tickets on motorcycles with
the aux lights lit in certain areas.
 
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