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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the bike on my lift,I loosened the steering stem nut on top of the triple tree...Then underneath,I gently tapped the locknut with a screwdriver and hammer, underneath the tree,until it snugged up,but not too tight...Mine was pretty loose... Tightened the chrome nut on top back up,and took it for a ride...The clunk was GONE...I did move the forks back and forth while on the lift,and it moved freely,no binding or drag..I am wondering why there is a lockwasher on the nut underneath,if you can turn it so easily,without taking it apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Big Jon said:
You may have a bearing failure or it was not torqued properly.
It's fine now..I suspect a lot of them are not torqued properly when Honda assembles these bikes..It seems to be a common problem that I have seen on this board many times..
 

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Glad that worked for U!! I would have felt better taking them apart to Inspect the Bearings :idea:
 

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Kevin Kuiper said:
Glad that worked for U!! I would have felt better taking them apart to Inspect the Bearings :idea:
Agree with that.........................mine was dry as a bone the first time I took it apart to change to the 6s. Seems Honda forgot to lube my cones! :shock:

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aardvark said:
Does anyone know what the Timken numbers are for these bearings?
Sorry, I do not. But HDL does sell them...
 

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mine too had loosened up a little bit and I tightened the nuts back up, went about half-3/4's of a turn by hand...now thats loose.. dont forget guys, everything loosens up after time and clearances get bigger..I would say its a safe bet that the head bearings should be retorqued every two years to be on the safe side...........Dallas
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kevin Kuiper said:
aardvark said:
Does anyone know what the Timken numbers are for these bearings?
Sorry, I do not. But HDL does sell them...
I know HDL has them,but I work for the worlds largest bearing distributor,
and can get them really cheap....just cant seem to find the Timken number....I think it comes as a cup & cone set,with the part number starting with 3xxxx...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
maximus said:
Is this when you hit a bump? and sounds like it came from the speedometer.
Its definitely not the speedo...Its play in the steering stem...I had a clunk,and a little wobble in the front end...Tightened the nut enough to snug it up,and no more clunk...no more wobble...
 

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I'm going to check mine this weekend. I have no wobble but do have a clunk. I really seem to feel it when I ride over bumps. I would imagine that the lock ring is keyed so that it won't turn on the threaded shaft. The only way to loosen/tighten would be to lift the tabs and then proceed....is this correct?
 

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Thanks for the post because I just started getting the clunk too a few weeks ago. I have 12k on my bike and have not had the trees off yet. I thought it was the speedo but it's not. I'll try what you guys are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
whiteduramax said:
I'm going to check mine this weekend. I have no wobble but do have a clunk. I really seem to feel it when I ride over bumps. I would imagine that the lock ring is keyed so that it won't turn on the threaded shaft. The only way to loosen/tighten would be to lift the tabs and then proceed....is this correct?
I did not loosen the tabs on the lockwasher...I just loosened the big chrome nut on top of the triple tree,then gently tapped the locknut,which turned with the washer...It turned maybe 3/4 of a rotation,until it was just a little snug...Then tightened the chrome nut back up,and that was it...
I am not sure why the washer turns with the locknut,but thats what mine did...Once you tighten that big chrome nut down,it holds everything tight...
 

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Anybody with this (FRONT END CLUNK) pay attention to this TREAD...It is the CURE to this PROBLEM!!! Remember when you were a KID and liked to tinker with your Bicycle and played around with the front forks, you know, adjusting the Column because it had that same "CLUNK" when you hit a Bump...the very same Idea. Thanks aardvark
 

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I would pull the chrome nut and check the tabs to see if they are broken and not holding the nuts location. Otherwise they may come loose again.
 

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I'm checking mine this Sunday. I called 4 Honda dealers within 1 hour of me and NONE had the lock washer part in stock. Makes me wonder if they replace the washer when they tear into a stem assembly.

I haven't had mine apart yet but I would imagine that the lock washer would be keyed to the stem itself which would keep it from turning thus holding both the upper and lower lock nuts in place.
 

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need help!

I too have this clunk, but am confused on what exactly I need to do to fix it. What do I need to do to fix it?

Thanks
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am pretty sure when the new bikes come into the dealer for assembly,the front end is off the bike...When they put it on,they are probably not real careful about correct torque,and free play...If its even a little too loose,it will only get sloppier after riding,and then the clunk becomes evident....
 

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A couple of things here about the lock nut................ First, the stem spanner nut is the holder of the entire stem. Honda uses a locking tab washer with ears that bend down and into the slots of the lower stem spanner nut, and ears that bend up into the upper spanners locking nut. This locking tab washer and the locking nut, do very little to hold the entire assembly together.................Yes when the two are torqued and mated with the locking tab, it does provide some resistance from spinning on the stem. Not a whole lot, but some.

The bigger issue or why these are loosening up is this. One, normal wear to the stem bearings or vibration is one thing, but why does the assembly back off? Here is why...........................

Some of the scoots that I have fixed this on and retightened the stem spanners, were found to have the top tree and the forks not aligned correctly. The top tree was matched on the fork caps right, but there was still gap at the top locking nut to the bottom of the tree. Even though the center acorn nut was tight, the tree still had gap............! This gives room for the lock nuts to work loose, and rotate loose over time.

To fix it properly, you must re-seat or tap your lock nuts to the proper preload, or the preload you like. Then, loosen up your top tree bolts on the forks to allow the top tree to slide down the forks to sit on top of the lock nuts. Snug up the center acorn nut just snug, then loosen up the bottom tree pinches one fork at a time. Re-align the fork cap with the upper tree and tighten up both trees on that side. Now do the same on the other fork. Once both forks are re-aligned, tighten up the acorn nut in the center and you should be golden....................... 8)

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