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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rear brake pedal I have to push WAAAAAY down before I can start to feel the rear brake doing anything. Does that necessarily mean I need to have new rear bake pads installed or what not? Or might there be some adjustment I just need to do to make the petal tighter? Sorry guys, I have no clue, this is my first bike and I acquired it recently. I tried to take a pic below but I would guess not much help. Thanks for any help!



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2002 VTX1800R Lowered 2" Rhinehardt Flush Cut, Brown County X with Flames Air Box Cover
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Bleeding them sounds like a must. whole procedure for that.
Bareass Choppers has some instructions.
bleeding brakes
And I suggest pulling rear pads. Cleaning and lubing rear caliper.
Don't forget to check and bleed front also, as they are part of the rear also.
replacing pads
Complete vids and instructions for that also. and recently in a few threads.
Just purchased Front and Rear padsx plus a new battery tender.
200 bucks.
 

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Hydraulic brakes are self adjusting. The pads wear thinner, you press the brakes and fluid is advanced to squeeze the rotor. So no matter how thin the pads get, the fluid takes up the slack thus self adjusting.

A soft pedal like you describe, is more indicative of a system that has gotten air in it and as said needs to have the system bled and while you're at it you may as well change the brake fluid. There is a very specific procedure on how to bleed Honda's Linked Braking System outlined at BareassChoppers.com If you try any other way, it will not get the air out
 

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Hey there,

From the pic above the pad looks ok. From this pic on your engine guard thread, hard to tell but check the level of the reservoir, also the color. The color of the fluid should be clear, if it's a light tan
still ok. Darker tan or brown time to change. For that matter check the front brake and clutch reservoirs as well. If you do end up needing to change out fluid cover painted areas as brake fluid eats
paint quite well. Keep us posted and good looking bike, give us a full pic.

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Here in Pa., 2 thousandths is the minimum for passing state inspection. Use only Honda OEM pads. May be a little more $$ than some, but it will be worth it in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone! I'll try and check the brake reservoirs when I get home. I see the one in JAT's picture above for the right side, does the left side look roughly the same and is it in roughly the same spot? Will try and post pictures.

Although, I'm thinking I'll take the bike to a shop near me to bleed the brakes and just ask them to check out the brakes generally. They only charged me $80 to do a Pallidum crash guard install, which I thought was very reasonable.
 

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There is no brake res on the left side. You have the front brake reservoir and lever on your right hand side of the bars and the rear brake pedal on the righthand side of the frame. The lefthand side of the handlebars is your clutch reservoir
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, I couldn't even look into or get a good picture of the rear brake fluid level yesterday, it looks like I have to unbolt that black piece of metal covering it? Here is all I could get:

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I can't tell anything really. But whatever is in there does not look too dark it seems.

Here is the front, definitely some fluid in there, because it looks clear (and the front brake feels good) I assume nothing to do there? Is it possible for me to snap a pic of the front brake pads in a way where yall can see if they have plenty of pad left?

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
From Merry Prankster's link, it looks like this is how I would bleed the rear brakes correct? Any special kind of brake fluid I need or just any ole brake fluid from Wal-Mart or a parts store? Should a parts store have the tubing?

Thanks!

 

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2002 VTX1800R Lowered 2" Rhinehardt Flush Cut, Brown County X with Flames Air Box Cover
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From Merry Prankster's link, it looks like this is how I would bleed the rear brakes correct? Any special kind of brake fluid I need or just any ole brake fluid from Wal-Mart or a parts store? Should a parts store have the tubing?

Thanks!

I use vavoline synthetic. and I got my hose from menards, 10ft for 5 bucks.
yes, 3/16 hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Merry Prankster! Next question (for anyone!) - the black metal piece that covers the real brake reservoir, it looks I need to take that off to really get to the reservoir. Is that right? I looks like its screwed on with a hex type screw, so I need to take that out? But it didn't look hex, it looked more like a star type thing. Just googling, is that a torx key I need to get? What size?

Thanks!!
 

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2002 VTX1800R Lowered 2" Rhinehardt Flush Cut, Brown County X with Flames Air Box Cover
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Thanks Merry Prankster! Next question (for anyone!) - the black metal piece that covers the real brake reservoir, it looks I need to take that off to really get to the reservoir. Is that right? I looks like its screwed on with a hex type screw, so I need to take that out? But it didn't look hex, it looked more like a star type thing. Just googling, is that a torx key I need to get? What size?

Thanks!!
Required Tools/Materials
  • 5mm allen
  • Phillips head screwdriver
  • 8mm and 10mm wrench – it must be a wrench, a socket won’t work
  • LOTS of rags to protect your paint and to catch spills. I also use an old sock to catch spills at the reservoir
  • 1 quart of fresh (sealed) DOT4 brake fluid (a pint if you’re just flushing the system) – I use Valvoline Synthetic DOT3 & 4
  • Mity-vac or other brake bleeding kit
  • (Optional) bungee cord
 

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