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I picked up a new rear tire to replace my worn out Metezler. I plan to remove the wheel at home and take it to my local shop to swap out the rubber.

How difficult is it to remove the wheel without removing the fender and saddlebags? I have a jack that will raise it up high enough, but is there the clearance to get it off the final drive?

I have read the manual and it doesn’t say to remove the fender, just looking for tips and tricks to make this go as smoothly as possible. I did this with my Aero a couple years ago and without thinking I stripped down the back end to remove the wheel. It was a pain to put back together.



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No need to remove fender. Once off the final drive you should be able to tip top part of wheel to the right and slide out the left side. It will be a lot easier to remove brake caliper
(just hang it from somewhere) and bracket with right saddle bag removed. I usually remove the left saddle bag as well, just for cleaning purposes. Have fun...
 
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It’s not that hard as long as u get it high enough...and no u dont need to remove the fender....everybody has their own technique....for me I try to get as much stuff out of the way....for u I would definitely at least remove the axle nut side bag...u know others will chime in...good luck

Ps...remember to leave bike in gear....especially on reinstall....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks fellas. I will remove the bag on that side.


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Thanks fellas. I will remove the bag on that side.


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Also good time to moly final/flange and change final fluid...
 

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I loosen the axle nut, loosen the caliper stop bolt, remove the brake hose clamp.
I usually remove both bags.
I jack up the X until wheel/tire clear the floor.
On the R/S probably best to leave it on the floor. (See video)
A greased axle usually comes out easily. Clean & lube.
I put a knee on the center of the caliper brake cylinder to move the piston in a small amount.
Pull caliper and bracket, tie to grab rail.
I put some cardboard in between the pads.
I put grease on the dust seals(double lip seals) when putting the wheel back on.
Use as a reference, read what SM has.
I found an 1800 video.
Bob does not use moly paste on his splines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I loosen the axle nut, loosen the caliper stop bolt, remove the brake hose clamp.
I usually remove both bags.
I jack up the X until wheel/tire clear the floor.
On the R/S probably best to leave it on the floor. (See video)
A greased axle usually comes out easily.
I put a knee on the center of the caliper brake cylinder to move the piston in a small amount.
Pull caliper off some and tie to grab rail.
I put some cardboard in between the pads.
I put grease on the dust seals when putting the wheel back on.

I found an 1800 video.
Bob does not use moly paste on his splines.
Great video, thanks @Hans&Feet. What is the difference between grease and moly? Can I pick up moly at somewhere like Napa?



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The Moly paste is for the splines.
Is it overkill? Possibly... Probably..
My 850 Yamaha did not specify moly paste.
The dealer has it, NAPA probably has it.
Honda Moly paste was 60%, recently they came out with 77%.
My original tube is almost empty.
There are other brands.
 
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Locktite makes a moly....I always add some moly to final drive oil...just seems to work for me....<|LOL
 
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A great video for us visual types. All that lube, but nothing on the axle? And I didn't hear anything about torque values.

I had to get more moly recently, and on a price per gallon basis, it's the second most expensive product in the world [after printer ink].
 

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Yeah, the good stuff (60+%) is pricey. It only takes a dollop the size of a lima bean to do the job so, it lasts along time. FWIW Napa (at least my local guy) does have it. The difference compared to grease is the addition of the molybendum which is 'barrier' lubricant. Moly is a soft flaky metallic element that prevents metal to metal (cog to gear) contact under extreme unit loading. We used it all the time on tracked equipment where the bull drove the track. Axle don't 'need' moly (won't hurt) just a LIGHT coat of synthetic grease.
 

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A great video for us visual types. All that lube, but nothing on the axle? And I didn't hear anything about torque values.
I had to get more moly recently, and on a price per gallon basis, it's the second most expensive product in the world [after printer ink].
He put enough grease in the ID of the flange bearings, like it would go into the flange bearings.
Torque setting--my axle nut is "gut n tite". 12" crescent wrench is my tool, I sit on the floor and pull.
No crow foot therefore no torque wrench.
I am not going to loosen, or move the pipes...
I always rub on a film of grease on the axle.
Many years ago someone used pressure washer or no grease or both.
It was rusted/oxidized in the final. it was a chore to get the axle out.
 

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Torque is in the comments.(y)
 

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Is that tail light a Canadian thing? Can you post a straight on pic?
 

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Discussion Starter #16


Is that tail light a Canadian thing? Can you post a straight on pic?
Got it off Amazon. Smoked lens, led and signals are incorporated.










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Discussion Starter #17
I picked up the wheel from the shop after work yesterday but it was my son’s birthday so I had to wait until tonight to finish the job.

Replaced the brake pads as well, since I was there. Put the wheel on, put all the pieces back together and had no left over parts. Test ride complete as well. Feels good. The Metezler was 8 years old and with the wear it was sliding when I down shifted. New one doesn’t do that.


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Discussion Starter #19
"No left over parts"? You sure you did it right???
Okay, I had a valve cap left over. The shop put one on and I replaced it with the one for my TPMS.


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