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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a 2 part question so here goes

I changed my oil yesterday - used petro based 10W40 MC oil. I don't know if the bike had syn oil in it previously but it sounds like sh*t now. Would the difference in the oil cause a change in how the engine sounds?

A co-worker told me today that he uses Rotella-T in his bike & that it has the same properties as MC oil. Diff though is that he rides a sport racing bike & changes his oil every 600 miles or so & only uses less than 2 qts. Mine is a VTX, oil changes every 3K w/filter.

So does anybody have an opinion on either of these issues? I know that is a stupid question on this board - asking if you have an opinion on something - kinda like asking if the pope is Catholic. . . . . .
 

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I have an opinion. I agree with your buddy. The Shell Rotella is very good oil. The bike probably did have synthetic in it before. The synthetic oil quiets them down alot. Change every 3,00 to 4,000 miles.
 

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Rotella Oil

I have used this in my other bike and had no issues with it. It's cheaper than the synthetics. I change my oil every 4000 miles. My new bike is about to get it's first oil change and I'll be using the Rotella oil. From what I've read and heard, Rotella, Mobil, Amsoil and one or two others are great and have had no complaints from people. There was also some old-schoolers who were talking about, I think, just plain Castrol GTX at the right weight for the bike. I still believe in the regular oils and think synthetics are good as well, but I still remember selling an old BMW of mine at 200,000 miles with NO problems. It had used regular oil and only at like 180,000 did I go to Mobil One. That engine was still super strong. It was time to get a bigger car or I would have never sold that one. So, even though a bike has the clutch using the motor oil, there are plenty of guys that have used regular oil, including the Rotella who have been fine for 30+ years. Buy what makes you feel comfortable though out of the top recommendations. You can't go wrong With Mobil and Rotella. I've never known anyone who used Amsoil but from all the comments and researching, the ones that do use it are very happy as well and it seems to have a good reputation. Good luck!


Curtis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok - so then my next question is if I change the oil again using the rotella-t (I think the "t" stands for truck) can I take the filter off, let it drain the petro & then reuse it with the new oil?

Of course I used the Honda filter @ $13 cause the local farm store only carries Fram which was not a choice for me.

I really do apreciate your opinions!
:lol:
 

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Oil Filter

Just my own opinion, but I always change the filter when I change the oil. Some guys don't and they haven't had any issues that I know of. I actually ordered like 20 K&N oil filters online a while back and got a really good discount and free shipping. I know this is a little excessive, but now I've got them and I've got enough oil in my garage to last me for maybe 4 oil changes. I like having things on hand, if you can't tell. Also, when you buy a bunch right up front, it may be a little expensive but then you don't have to go out and buy the oil and filter each time you change and will save a few trips to the store should you just need to add a little oil to the bike or make a mistake when changing oil, like leaving on the old filter gasket (did that on my truck years ago!!!). So, that's my 2 cents, good luck. Oh yeah and I have read that the better oil filters to buy are the Honda brand, the K&N and the Purolator Pure One. There may be more but these seem to all be good quality from what I've researched.

Curtis
 

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I use Rotella T and am very pleased with it. As far as using the old filter, why? Fresh oil, fresh filter. Pretty cheap compared to engine repair...
 

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I use Rotella T Syn as well. Usually pick it up at Wal Mart for $15-17 a gallon. Here's some info on filters ....

SiC

Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
•Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
•Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
Motorcycle-Specific Filters.

* AC Delco PF2135 about $10.
* AMSOil SMF103, about $9.
* FRAM PH6017A about $7.
* Honda 15410-MCJ-000, about $12.
* K&N KN-204. Unknown price. Has a metric nut on the end for easy removal.
* NAPA Gold 1358, Carquest 85358, WIX 51358 about $7 to $8.
* Purolator Motorcycle ML16817 about $6. Imported, not made by Purolator.
* STP 07, about $7.

Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long.

* Mobil M1-108, about $12.
* Purolator Pure One PL14622 about $6.
* Bosch 3300 about $6. About 64mm, doesn't quite fit oil filter wrenches. A real pain.
* WalMart SuperTech ST6607 about $2.
* AC Delco PF1237 about $6.
* NAPA Gold 1365 about $6.
* Purolator L14622 about $4.
* STP S-02876 about $3.

Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long.

* Bosch 3323 about $6
* Mobil 1 M1-110 about $10
* Purolator Pure One PL14620 about $6
* Purolator L14620 about $4
* NAPA Gold 1356, Carquest 85356, WIX 51356 about $6
* Deutsch D-370 about $4
* AC Delco PF-2057 about $6
* Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 about $4
* STP S-02867 about $3
* FRAM, Castrol, Penske 7317 about $3
 

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Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
•Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
•Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
Motorcycle-Specific Filters.

* AC Delco PF2135 about $10.
* AMSOil SMF103, about $9.
* FRAM PH6017A about $7.
* Honda 15410-MCJ-000, about $12.
* K&N KN-204. Unknown price. Has a metric nut on the end for easy removal.
* NAPA Gold 1358, Carquest 85358, WIX 51358 about $7 to $8.
* Purolator Motorcycle ML16817 about $6. Imported, not made by Purolator.
* STP 07, about $7.

Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long.

* Mobil M1-108, about $12.
* Purolator Pure One PL14622 about $6.
* Bosch 3300 about $6. About 64mm, doesn't quite fit oil filter wrenches. A real pain.
* WalMart SuperTech ST6607 about $2.
* AC Delco PF1237 about $6.
* NAPA Gold 1365 about $6.
* Purolator L14622 about $4.
* STP S-02876 about $3.

Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long.

* Bosch 3323 about $6
* Mobil 1 M1-110 about $10
* Purolator Pure One PL14620 about $6
* Purolator L14620 about $4
* NAPA Gold 1356, Carquest 85356, WIX 51356 about $6
* Deutsch D-370 about $4
* AC Delco PF-2057 about $6
* Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 about $4
* STP S-02867 about $3
* FRAM, Castrol, Penske 7317 about $3
Wow thats alot of great info
I tried the syns, and don't like 'em, it almost feels like it made by bike slip. As far as the filter, if you don't have may miles on the oil I would re-use the filter
 

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Re-using the filter may very well be the poorest excuse for saving money that I have ever heard. It also may very well leak if you choose to do that.
 

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michael7276 said:
Re-using the filter may very well be the poorest excuse for saving money that I have ever heard. It also may very well leak if you choose to do that.
+1
 

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Not sure what the "T" stands for in Rotella T synthetic. It is good oil. It used to stink quite a bit, but Shell "fixed" that. Its design applications includes wet brake, wet clutch equipment and also gear box applicaitons. If you have a truck stop near by or heavy equipment supply, you can also buy Mobil/Delvac One 5-40 in 5 gallon pails; anothe good one. I am using Amsoil right now and it seems just as good, so far. Hal will fix ya up with filters pretty cheap - buy them by the dozen. Change that final drive gear oil too with top grade synthetic gear oil.

prs
 

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I run Rotella/Purolator combo after reading about it on here and after 3,000+ miles its quieter and less gear clunk. As far as changing the oil and NOT the filter... why the hell would you put fresh oil in a used filter??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
06vtxxx said:
I run Rotella/Purolator combo after reading about it on here and after 3,000+ miles its quieter and less gear clunk. As far as changing the oil and NOT the filter... why the hell would you do put new oil in a dirty filter??
I only have about 150 miles on this filter that i installed on Sunday. I was only going to drain the petro oil & the filter & add the syn oil in hopes that it would run a little quieter. Got a 800+ mile weekend coming up & hope that I can get it to sound like it did b4 I changed the oil.

Not generally cheap with things on the bike but would just like to reuse the $13 filter & get the mileage out of it.
 

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well thats a little different- i mean normal routine oil changes in general. If you run the Purolator theyre only like $6. Advance auto just opened a new store and had buy 1 get 1 free so i stocked up on auto and bike filters :lol:
 

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kathymc7719 said:
06vtxxx said:
I run Rotella/Purolator combo after reading about it on here and after 3,000+ miles its quieter and less gear clunk. As far as changing the oil and NOT the filter... why the hell would you do put new oil in a dirty filter??
I only have about 150 miles on this filter that i installed on Sunday. I was only going to drain the petro oil & the filter & add the syn oil in hopes that it would run a little quieter. Got a 800+ mile weekend coming up & hope that I can get it to sound like it did b4 I changed the oil.

Not generally cheap with things on the bike but would just like to reuse the $13 filter & get the mileage out of it.
Leave the filter on. Drain your crankcase. Fill it with full synth. Probably take about 3.5 qts. (leaving the filter on). You'll only have maybe a pint of oil in the filter.

But you can get a Bosch 3323 (this is a good quality filter) at Autozone for about $6.
 

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I'm not an expert but I don't think you should mix dino oil and synthetic, even in small quantities--change the filter.
 

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lincdoc said:
I'm not an expert but I don't think you should mix dino oil and synthetic, even in small quantities--change the filter.
HMMMMM......ever heard of Valvoline Durablend or Honda HP4. Both are blends of dino and synth oil.

Also this is from the Mobile 1 web-site FAQ's...
Question:
Any Problem Having Residual Conventional Oil in the Engine When Switching to Synthetic?
When switching from petroleum-based motor oil to synthetic is there a concern regarding the co-mingling of residual organic-based oil with the new synthetic oil and if so what are the risks?


Answer:
There should be no concerns with switching your motor oil from conventional to Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance. No special preparation is necessary. Mobil 1 is compatible with conventional oils.
Although the answer is specific to Mobile products, I would suspect that the engineers at all oil companies would have to anticipate the possibility that synth and dino oil at some point may have to be mixed, maybe because of availability i.e. crankcase is low by 1/2 qt. and full synth isn't available at that location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
michael7276 said:
kathymc7719 said:
06vtxxx said:
I run Rotella/Purolator combo after reading about it on here and after 3,000+ miles its quieter and less gear clunk. As far as changing the oil and NOT the filter... why the hell would you do put new oil in a dirty filter??
I only have about 150 miles on this filter that i installed on Sunday. I was only going to drain the petro oil & the filter & add the syn oil in hopes that it would run a little quieter. Got a 800+ mile weekend coming up & hope that I can get it to sound like it did b4 I changed the oil.

Not generally cheap with things on the bike but would just like to reuse the $13 filter & get the mileage out of it.
Leave the filter on. Drain your crankcase. Fill it with full synth. Probably take about 3.5 qts. (leaving the filter on). You'll only have maybe a pint of oil in the filter.

But you can get a Bosch 3323 (this is a good quality filter) at Autozone for about $6.
thanks for the reference on the Bosch filter. I stopped to the local AutoZone & they showed nothing in the computer for a suitable filter but I am told the Fram 6607 is used more often in cars but he could not cross reference it. Next time I'll go in & just tell them what I need.

'preciate the advice
 

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kathymc7719 said:
michael7276 said:
kathymc7719 said:
06vtxxx said:
I run Rotella/Purolator combo after reading about it on here and after 3,000+ miles its quieter and less gear clunk. As far as changing the oil and NOT the filter... why the hell would you do put new oil in a dirty filter??
I only have about 150 miles on this filter that i installed on Sunday. I was only going to drain the petro oil & the filter & add the syn oil in hopes that it would run a little quieter. Got a 800+ mile weekend coming up & hope that I can get it to sound like it did b4 I changed the oil.

Not generally cheap with things on the bike but would just like to reuse the $13 filter & get the mileage out of it.
Leave the filter on. Drain your crankcase. Fill it with full synth. Probably take about 3.5 qts. (leaving the filter on). You'll only have maybe a pint of oil in the filter.

But you can get a Bosch 3323 (this is a good quality filter) at Autozone for about $6.
thanks for the reference on the Bosch filter. I stopped to the local AutoZone & they showed nothing in the computer for a suitable filter but I am told the Fram 6607 is used more often in cars but he could not cross reference it. Next time I'll go in & just tell them what I need.

'preciate the advice
Kathy, do not ever use a Fram filter. In testing it was the worst filter on the market. The innards are made up of glued cardboard. When the oil was tested after running a Fram filter, glue and cardboard showed up in the oil analysis.

In contrast, the Purolator Pure One tested the best.
 
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