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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post. Hate that its about an issue rather than an introduction, but..... I have a 2005 1300s.
Bought it about two weeks ago. Attempted to do a weekend getaway with my wife this weekend, and 2 hours from the house the bike started sputtering and losing power occasionally.
When it does this the speedometer bounces to 0 and back and the odometer flashes. I have checked the battery connections and everything is tight and clean. The bike starts like a champ so i don't think the battery is bad. i dont think its a carb issue due to the speedometer issues happening at the same time every time it sputters. Any common issues that anybody is aware of? A known bad connection point or ground? Thanks for any help.
 

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Usually, when that happens with the 1300 (CB) it is the Battery. check regulator rectifier output also check that alternator is doing its job. bet your bottom dollar something is amiss with the charging circuit. Could also be a poor earth on the Battery.
 

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Get a voltmeter, low voltage when odometer flashes..

Main 30 amp fuse, the connections fot that main 30 amp fuse on the Red cap of the starter relay.

Ignition switch connector..

Engine starts like a champ-- need to check charging voltage but usually it would not crank if charging system at fault.
 

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Check the green and the black wires on the ecm module on top of the battery. They have been known to break or have an intermittent connection and cause the symptoms your describing. Good luck.
 

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Thanks for the input. I won’t be able to look at it till Wednesday. I plan on having the battery checked or just replace it. Not sure how old it is. I’ll check all the grounds and ignition switch. Then the culprit I’m suspecting (the ecm connector sitting on top of the battery) I went a head and ordered a new connector and pins. I think I have it traced down to a black or green wire that also involves the speedometer. We will see. I’ll post back with my findings.
 

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Battery cable bolt was tight. But the bolt was too long. Bottomed our on the battery before it tightened the cable end to the battery. Never would of dreamed of that. Never seen it before. I haven’t had time to ride it yet. Going to replace the battery while I have it apart and clean all the connections. But that has to be it. It was extremely loose. Just surprised it took that long to start giving me issues. Thanks for the replies. Looking forward to getting some riding in next weekend.
 

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Battery cable bolt was tight. But the bolt was too long. Bottomed our on the battery before it tightened the cable end to the battery. Never would of dreamed of that. Never seen it before. I haven’t had time to ride it yet. Going to replace the battery while I have it apart and clean all the connections. But that has to be it. It was extremely loose. Just surprised it took that long to start giving me issues. Thanks for the replies. Looking forward to getting some riding in next weekend.
on one of my Varadero's I had heated grips (wiring to battery), heated gloves plug (wiring to battery), a pair of givi fog lights put on by previous owner (wired through a switch to battery) and an optimiser wired to battery. all those extra connections required longer terminal bolts. I kept the old ones and when I sold the bike I took some of the kit off and re-used the older terminal screws which now fitted. probability is your Vtx as had lots of extras on but they have not changed out one of the bolts. Or its just an old fashioned bodge after losing the correct bolt and using what they could find in the spare bolt tub. A new battery should kill two birds with one stone. Please let us know if this works.
 

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Battery cable bolt was tight. But the bolt was too long. Bottomed our on the battery before it tightened the cable end to the battery.
I replaced an aftermarket battery with a new Yuasa, which came with two short and two long bolts. The long bolts didn't tighten down the stock connections but if I had a stack of add-on copper rings connections I might have needed the longer bolts.
 
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