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Discussion Starter #1
OK, real quick. Bike started running sluggishly yesterday. I checked the ECM wires, all are good. I want to buy a spark plug tester, my question is if the plug is bad and not firing, will the tester still light up? Or do I have to take out the plug?
 

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I don't understand. Plug removal is easy enough, and if you're going to just 'go and buy a plug tester', just buy a new plug or several and change them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't understand. Plug removal is easy enough, and if you're going to just 'go and buy a plug tester', just buy a new plug or several and change them.
Lol. I have the plugs already. I’m just not a mechanical kinda person so if I replace the plugs and it is still rough, I don’t know what to do next. Ok, so I’ll replace plugs first then see. Thank you for your help. I’ll be back.
 

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I had a similar issue and it ended up being the battery. I took a volt meter to it and it showed proper voltage but when I took it to the dealership, they put it on a tester and the tester said replace. After it was replaced, it's been running great again. I changed the plugs prior to taking it and it helped a little but still felt like it was missing ever few rpm.
 

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OK, real quick. Bike started running sluggishly yesterday. I checked the ECM wires, all are good. I want to buy a spark plug tester, my question is if the plug is bad and not firing, will the tester still light up? Or do I have to take out the plug?
If one of them won't fire, probably you won't really notice it, but you can test them one by one without a tester. In most caseses a visual check is enough, though.
Before buying a tester, I'd check grunds, battery cables, fuel delivery (because yours a 2nd generation VTX 1800). How many miles on the plugs? If not over 100k, I wouldn't waste any money on replacing them.
Edit:
Ooops, I got confused. This is the 1300 tech board and you have a VTX 1300 not 1800. So, your plugs won't last that long and it was a good idea to change them. The 1300's plugs are different and cheaper from the 1800's IR plugs...
 

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I had a similar issue and it ended up being the battery. I took a volt meter to it and it showed proper voltage but when I took it to the dealership, they put it on a tester and the tester said replace. After it was replaced, it's been running great again. I changed the plugs prior to taking it and it helped a little but still felt like it was missing ever few rpm.
The AMPERAGE or LOAD tester is the one that confirms if a battery is good or not. Agree that would be a good place to start, but if someone has a problem with getting plugs out then they are going to be really reluctant to remove the seat to get to the battery box.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. Got one plug out, then wife says “let’s go shopping “
This plug is black, kinda sooty, and a little damp looking.
I’m still in Shoprite. .. to be continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, changed my plugs. Gapped them all to 33. Enclosed is the picture of the old plugs. They were all gapped between 34 and 36. The bike runs like a top now. None of the plugs look worse than the others. I can’t understand why it started running so poorly all at once. Thank you all for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
****update****. My friend, a Harley rider but I like him anyway, says it looks like an over-rich situation. And then it dawned on me, when I started it up in the morning, I fully choked it, and never reset the choke. So maybe that’s what it was .?.
 

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If a spark plug is not firing, the exhaust piping will never get hot. You can check it with your hand, being especially careful not to burn yourself. I realize the point is mute, since you already changed out the plugs.

Save it for next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If a spark plug is not firing, the exhaust piping will never get hot. You can check it with your hand, being especially careful not to burn yourself. I realize the point is mute, since you already changed out the plugs.

Save it for next time.
👍
 
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