Honda VTX Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well - I'm hoping this helps someone. I scoured what seems like hundreds of "how to's" on broken bolt removal. And it just seemed hopeless. Here's what happened...

I have been chasing decel pop in my new V&H exhaust for quite a while now. I've replaced crush gaskets, I've done the pair valve removal, I've monkey with the A/F. Nothing has worked. So while I am waiting on my air cutoff valve repair diaphragm (as suggested in another post) to arrive - I decided while the bike was HOT... that maybe it'd be a good idea to give my already washered acorn nuts on my exhaust a little tightening up.

So just a little tightening up here and there... and then I get to my back exhaust port screw and am surprised at how easy it spins.... only to realized like a dumbarsicle I snapped it off. I remove the entire exhaust and for the last 3 days I've been PBlastering it, heating, vice gripping, tapping, swearing, praying... then decided it was time to bore it out and use an extractor set. Well the idea of boring scared the bejeezus out of me... so i just kept searching.

Well I searched all over trying to find "the one" to get... and I ran across this -> [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKEBG9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

ARES 70016 - Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool - Grips and Removes 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Studs - Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over, and Rusted Tight Bolts

I tried it the first time... and it began spinning. I thought for sure that it was the tool slipping... only to see the stud backing out, and came out clean. PTL - I cannot describe how thankful I was. So I thought to post in the hopes it helps someone else.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Well - I'm hoping this helps someone. I scoured what seems like hundreds of "how to's" on broken bolt removal. And it just seemed hopeless. Here's what happened...

I have been chasing decel pop in my new V&H exhaust for quite a while now. I've replaced crush gaskets, I've done the pair valve removal, I've monkey with the A/F. Nothing has worked. So while I am waiting on my air cutoff valve repair diaphragm (as suggested in another post) to arrive - I decided while the bike was HOT... that maybe it'd be a good idea to give my already washered acorn nuts on my exhaust a little tightening up.

So just a little tightening up here and there... and then I get to my back exhaust port screw and am surprised at how easy it spins.... only to realized like a dumbarsicle I snapped it off. I remove the entire exhaust and for the last 3 days I've been PBlastering it, heating, vice gripping, tapping, swearing, praying... then decided it was time to bore it out and use an extractor set. Well the idea of boring scared the bejeezus out of me... so i just kept searching.

Well I searched all over trying to find "the one" to get... and I ran across this -> [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKEBG9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

ARES 70016 - Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool - Grips and Removes 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Studs - Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over, and Rusted Tight Bolts

I tried it the first time... and it began spinning. I thought for sure that it was the tool slipping... only to see the stud backing out, and came out clean. PTL - I cannot describe how thankful I was. So I thought to post in the hopes it helps someone else.
that same stud was broken on my VTX1800 when I purchased the bike. I welded an oversized nut to what was left of it then backed it out. Pain in the a$$.
 

·
Old Goat
Joined
·
26,781 Posts
Congrats OP....Only 17 pounds of torque required....for me is a dollop of anti seize and German torque specs....”Guden Tight”. Good luck
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blaine C

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
MrAnudo,
Man I feel your pain! One of friends had the done the same thing to his 1300. It took us hours to finally get that thing out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Well - I'm hoping this helps someone. I scoured what seems like hundreds of "how to's" on broken bolt removal. And it just seemed hopeless. Here's what happened...

I have been chasing decel pop in my new V&H exhaust for quite a while now. I've replaced crush gaskets, I've done the pair valve removal, I've monkey with the A/F. Nothing has worked. So while I am waiting on my air cutoff valve repair diaphragm (as suggested in another post) to arrive - I decided while the bike was HOT... that maybe it'd be a good idea to give my already washered acorn nuts on my exhaust a little tightening up.

So just a little tightening up here and there... and then I get to my back exhaust port screw and am surprised at how easy it spins.... only to realized like a dumbarsicle I snapped it off. I remove the entire exhaust and for the last 3 days I've been PBlastering it, heating, vice gripping, tapping, swearing, praying... then decided it was time to bore it out and use an extractor set. Well the idea of boring scared the bejeezus out of me... so i just kept searching.

Well I searched all over trying to find "the one" to get... and I ran across this -> [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GKEBG9I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

ARES 70016 - Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool - Grips and Removes 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Studs - Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over, and Rusted Tight Bolts

I tried it the first time... and it began spinning. I thought for sure that it was the tool slipping... only to see the stud backing out, and came out clean. PTL - I cannot describe how thankful I was. So I thought to post in the hopes it helps someone else.
Brother, it just happened to me and was sweating this but I believe this tool is the answer!! Thank you for sharing.. can't wait to try thus toolbout. Just ordered it. Ty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brother, it just happened to me and was sweating this but I believe this tool is the answer!! Thank you for sharing.. can't wait to try thus toolbout. Just ordered it. Ty.
Good luck - start soaking the base of the screw where it goes into the manifold with PBlaster while you wait.

I feel for ya - it’s tough to remedy, I hope it helps you out
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,333 Posts
Popular Mechanics did this test 30 plus years ago and I've used it for 10 years now and it makes life so much easier in my shop. Just shake well before every use. The farmers called it farmers spit.
Here's another test that sort if supports that, but with different conclusions overall

Either way, bathing it in something is better than nothing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDolittle

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,624 Posts
Great tool. Would welding a nut on the bolt work? (of course assuming you have a welder) It doesn't have to be pretty. Just hold good enough to remove the bolt.
I'd clean it VERY well first (any oily substances) and use either a wire wheel or grinder to expose some clean metal for the weld.

FWIW, that was the only way I could get rounded-off "star" bolts from the rear wheel brake rotor on my Harley. Gripping the bolt head with vise-grips was not helpful either so I just welded a nut on one and out it went! Easy as cake. Piece of pie!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,835 Posts
... Would welding a nut on the bolt work?...
That is my go to way if simple first attempts don't work but I have the equipment sitting right there. Just tap a nut down on top of the stud so it sticks, doesn't matter what the thread of the nut is, weld just a little inside the nut. Unless the threads are cross theaded the heat alone usually lets you unscrew it without effort. In the pic below the bike is laying on the left side easier to contain the spatter so nothing gets marked.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Light Automotive lighting
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top