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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help. I have a'03 VTX S. I keep hitting my floorboards around corners. On my old '76 Goldwing, I have a sacrificing bar on the bottom of the floorboards. They are the piece that hit the road so the floorboards themselves don’t hit. They are wide T____T shape piece and they bolt on the outside of the “T”s. When they wear down you just replace them.

Does anyone know of a product that will work on the VTX floorboards? Or any other ideas???

I would think replacing the floorboards would be pretty expensive.

Thanx,
Gary
 

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Floorboards

I had the same problem and I switched to the L&R extreme forward controls and now not only do they not scrape but the bike is much more comfortable to ride and handles much better
 

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Re: Floorboards

Wirenut500 said:
I had the same problem and I switched to the L&R extreme forward controls and now not only do they not scrape but the bike is much more comfortable to ride and handles much better
Ditto, I've been running them for almost 3 years, but the boards will still scrape. You just have to try harder :) I added a set of Aeromach Cruisin pegs (swapped the peg out for Kury Iso-wings) and the bracket for the Aeromachs takes the scraping now.
 

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Ice,

If you are still scraping your floorboards after the installation of
the L&R Extreme forward controls, you should measure the
amount of exposed fork sliderwhile the bike is on its sidestand.
If it is only 4 inches, you can firm up your ride and
gain about an inch of extra clearance under your frame by
installing Progressive Suspensions forksprings.
I am running the GL1800 PS springs in my VTX1800C, but
guys who install the Progressive VTX1800 springs report
similar results.

But I am surprised that Honda doesn't provide sacrificial points
on the stock floorboards, because there was a sacrificial acorn nut
on the bottom of my stock footpegs before I switched over to
Cobra floorboards.


5 inches exposed fork tube after PS fork Springs
 

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Coyote7864 said:
Ice,

If you are still scraping your floorboards after the installation of
the L&R Extreme forward controls, you should measure the
amount of exposed fork sliderwhile the bike is on its sidestand.
If it is only 4 inches, you can firm up your ride and
gain about an inch of extra clearance under your frame by
installing Progressive Suspensions forksprings.
I am running the GL1800 PS springs in my VTX1800C, but
guys who install the Progressive VTX1800 springs report
similar results.

But I am surprised that Honda doesn't provide sacrificial points
on the stock floorboards, because their was a sacrificial acorn nut
on the bottom of my stock footpegs before I switched over to
Cobra floorboards.


5 inches exposed fork tube after PS fork Springs
Thanks... I just measured and it measured 5". My springs

The only way that I scrape is if I get too frisky in the curves or the curve is off camber and I hit a dip or something...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am ordering the GoldWing Progressive springs as I am adding on a Hoope Fairing and will have other added weight to the front end.
But still feel I want to add some protection to the floorboards.
Thanx,
Gary
 

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Cruzer,

I don't have a real VTX1800 Retro, so I have never examined the
bottom of the stock Honda floorboards.

But the bottom of my Cobra floorboards is dished inward.
It appears the my floorboards are stamped out of steel,
and the dished side is placed on the bottom, so that there
is a lip or edge on the bottom.

If your Honda floorboards are the same, you might be able to
install some "tank trim" (which is really chromed plastic trim
used around the wheelwells on automobile fenders) to
protect the bottom edge, and if that tank trim gets worn,
you can easily remove it, throw the worn trim away,
and install a new piece.

Here is a photo of my bike and you can see how I have
installed the "tank trim" along the bottom edge seam of
my gas tank and along the upper edge of my windshield.


March 2005 rightside (exhaust side) EMGO helmet box and Indian Warrior helmet


You can purchase the fender trim in 25 foot lengths in Pep Boys
and other automotive specialty stores, or in 10 or 20 foot lengths
from Cruiser Customizing. There is an entry for tank trim on
HDL, but it is a comedy entry since the price listed is
$299, which is probably twenty times the true price.
Many of the fellows on this board have disdain for those of us
who use tank trim and think that it improves the looks
of our bikes.
But here I have found a useful purpose for the decorative stuff!
 

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Or you could bolt on some magnesium bars and really enjoy the scraping :shock:
 

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There USED TO BE a sacrificial nub/rail molded into the bottom of my floorboards. But it is the same material as the floorboards and does not last long at all.
I don't think Honda expected me to drag the boards (of a retro styled CRUISER) at every opportunity I get. But that's what happens when you ride a monster like this like a sport machine. I love hearing them grind. I've darn near got one worn through to the rubber mat. Only gets scary when you start draggin' hard points of the frame.
Haven't priced replacement boards; probably hate it if I do.
Think when it gets to cuttin' my boots real heavy then I'll take the darn things to a local metal fab shop and ask if they can weld something to the edge which will last longer than Honda's lightweight alloy.
Ah yes, Tank Trim... Honestly; I've got it on my tank (asbestos undies are in place) but I know that it will not hold up to scrapin' pavement if applied to the floorboards.
 

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Wonderin how long it would take you to pipe in on this thread. :wink: :lol: I was thinking of you when I first saw this. Folks, BB outa be riding a C the way he drags those boards. :shock: Doesnt matter how many bikes are in your group, you WILL hear him. You know, you could get a shop to add some teflon strips to the boards, then we wouldnt hear you draggin those poor things! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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I have the same problem and am considering tapping a 1/4" hole on the underside of the floorboard where it is scraped off flat and threading a carriage head bolt into the hole. Once installed, it will scrape first and when it wears down, I'll replace it. Any thoughts on this fix......anyone?

Sailormann
 

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VTXnVa said:
... you could get a shop to add some teflon strips to the boards, then we wouldnt hear you draggin those poor things! :lol: :lol: :lol:
So where is the fun in that? :roll:
 

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sailormann10 said:
I have the same problem and am considering tapping a 1/4" hole on the underside of the floorboard where it is scraped off flat and threading a carriage head bolt into the hole. Once installed, it will scrape first and when it wears down, I'll replace it. Any thoughts on this fix......anyone?

Sailormann
I considered tapping and adding a bolt but was concerned about the edge of the bolt catching the pavement like a hard point.
I really like your idead regarding a carriage bolt. A smooth rounded-over surface (carriage bolt head) would not provide an edge to get hung up on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Maybe we should put a sacrificial magnesium block under the floorboards. Now that would be fun!

Gary
 

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bluto said:
Or you could bolt on some magnesium bars and really enjoy the scraping :shock:
He he .... I run titanium hero nuts on the ST1300.... makes a pretty show, so I'm told. :lol:
 
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