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Well heck, I guess it had to happen sooner or later. The last few times out I've had an issue getting the bike started. I always choke just a little, as soon as it starts I push the choke in and throttle it to warm up. The first time it died when I took it off choke. On restart it would run rough, then die out. No restart/no firing. I thought I had flooded it. I waited while the battery recharged and attempted again and got it going. Today, same scenario only after the wait....dead. Just turns over.

Here's what I've done.

1/ Checked the shut off valve/gas level. It's on and lots of gas. (I've closed it by mistake before).
2/ I took the air filter cover off. I checked to see when I blipped the throttle that I'd see a thread of gas going into the throat of the carb. Just a little spit on some blips, no stream other times. I believe I should be getting a steady stream with each blip? Correct?
3/ Tested vacuum line to shut off. Gas flow when cranked.


It appears to be a carb issue. Just guessing. Not a mechanic but learning.

I'm guessing this is as good as place to start as any. I mean, it's either no spark or no gas. It's clear that it appears to be starved for gas with the throttle test.

So now what? Is there anything else I should be checking? I'm thinking there's an issue with the throttle pump (can't remember the right term) isn't there a rubber component creating a vacuum? If It's cracked, it won't work properly. However, it's probably been 4 rides ago I had the first start issue. The bike (throttle) responded normally straight through all the rides. No hesitating etc. Clear throttle up with power. So not sure that's the issue. A bit confused at this point.

Vapor lock maybe?

Now is when I rely on the collective genius here on the forum for help. Thanks guys. Rog
 

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Glad you figured it out, spray some silicone spray on the assembly, and get some riding in. ride safe, and often.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
After I thought I had found the problem, I have not. Still the same thing going on.

Here's what I'm seeing. I start it, idles few seconds and dies out. It may or may not start on a second try, but always dies and any other attempts the engine just turns. Dead, engine turns, no pop. I took the air box off to look at the carb. Just for the heck of it, I tapped the bowl. The bike starts and stays running. Normal. Throttle blips normal. I take the bike out for a long ride and have no issues with accelerating, idle or restarting if stopped. I've done this for the third time today. Always the same issue, always the same cure. The issue shows up on a cold engine. Once warmed after kicking the bowl, everything is hunky dory.

Second and third attempts are after using SeaFoam. It doesn't appear it's working. I've got 200 miles on with the SeaFoam.

Given the tapping on the bowl gets things going, I suspect a float/valve issue. Could this be possible? But only on a cold engine? Again, odd thing is, it runs great after the tapping on the bowl. No issues at all. Here's where I need your help.

FYI-When I bought the bike, the guy had a custom air box and re-jetted the carb. I brought it back to stock parts. Been running great since until now. Thanks for your help!
 

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I would consider the petcock possibly. Somehow a vaccum could be holding up the float valve.. Is the problem the needle/float or the petcock.. Try the petcock mod to see if that affects the outcome.

Look up Heffly, he had same/similar issues.
 

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It's best to keep all your posts about the same problem in 1 thread. That way you, and people that are trying to help, don't have to bounce around from thread to thread looking to see what was done and suggested ;)
 

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Definitely sounds like the petcock. Get rid of that vacuum actuated crap.
I use a standard on/off/reserve valve without all the nanny state safety bullcrap.

When you pull the gas line to test flow, you break the vacuum that was preventing it from starting and it appears to test fine. Next time it happens, pull the gas line then stick it back on. I bet it will start. Been there, done that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Definitely sounds like the petcock. Get rid of that vacuum actuated crap.
I use a standard on/off/reserve valve without all the nanny state safety bullcrap.

When you pull the gas line to test flow, you break the vacuum that was preventing it from starting and it appears to test fine. Next time it happens, pull the gas line then stick it back on. I bet it will start. Been there, done that.
I understand what your saying about the nanny state stuff. I'll have to look into changing that over. I like that idea!


Right now though, I'm thinking it's the float/needle sticking. Because I just found a fix by tapping the float bowl. It dies, can't restart, I tap the bowl and the bike runs fine until it cools down.
 

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What's the history of the bike, has it sat for long periods of time without use? Gas left in it unused for long periods of time? If so, i would say your a candidate for a carb cleaning (beyond Seafoam). there's a youtube video on how to do it if your handy or feel handy.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Curve Ball! I'm working on the carb/float needle etc. As I turn the carb upside down there are two hose connectors that I'm thinking I capped when doing the PAIR removal. They are now hard and crusty/falling apart. I'm trying to find the PAIR instructions that told me to cap them to get the size of them. These two arms are down by the float bowl. The PAIR instructions I found don't even mention them....which has me wondering. On the Partzilla Honda carb diagram they are labeled E2 and F34 (I don't understand the designation or where to find the name of the two connectors)



Does anybody have any ideas for replacing these two caps with something that will last?? And confirm they were part of the PAIR REMOVAL.
 

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E2 and F34 are the coolant hoses to the carb.
Reduces emissions, better drive ability at cold start.
Not related to PAIR.
 

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Curve Ball! I'm working on the carb/float needle etc. As I turn the carb upside down there are two hose connectors that I'm thinking I capped when doing the PAIR removal. They are now hard and crusty/falling apart. I'm trying to find the PAIR instructions that told me to cap them to get the size of them. These two arms are down by the float bowl. The PAIR instructions I found don't even mention them....which has me wondering. On the Partzilla Honda carb diagram they are labeled E2 and F34 (I don't understand the designation or where to find the name of the two connectors)



Does anybody have any ideas for replacing these two caps with something that will last?? And confirm they were part of the PAIR REMOVAL.
I dont believe there is anything on the carb that is supposed to be capped
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
E2 and F34 are the coolant hoses to the carb.
Reduces emissions, better drive ability at cold start.
Not related to PAIR.
In my Clymer manual they are specifically noted for California bikes. Mystery solved. I have a non Cali bike, that's why they are capped! Because the caps had dried and cracked and opened up the ends of the tubes, they apparently had no effect on the performance of my bike. It's a 2004, no wonder they are dried and cracked. I found new vacuum caps at NAPA and replaced them. I did the carb cleaning and also cleaned the outside of the carb and it's related parts. Bike started fine. Took it for a ride and all is well in all gears as related to throttle. Smooth!


Now, the test comes in the morning when it is cold. Will it stay running after a cold start. If the cure was tapping the float bowl previously, I'm thinking it will start and remain running. I'll report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I dont believe there is anything on the carb that is supposed to be capped
Me too. That's why it was such a curve ball. Because they were so dried and cracked, I figured they had to be on since new or near new. As it turns out, back in 2004 anyway, all carbs were California spec'd and if not a Cali bike, the stems were just capped.
 

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In my Clymer manual they are specifically noted for California bikes. Mystery solved. I have a non Cali bike, that's why they are capped!
This is not accurate. All bikes have the coolant hoses attached. PO must have removed them. It would have no effect on your starting issue.

IIRC, there are CA specific carbs with extra emissions type stuff on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It's been a bad day! Not only did the bike not start/same symptom.....but get this. I took the float bowl off again to recheck everything and when screwing the last bolt/left rear, it strips! It never tightened, just kept turning. Understand I'm a soul of caution. I understand over tightening when aluminum is involved. I use a cautious snug when tightening. I doubt there's any fix to it.



I feel pretty defeated right now. Initial problem unsolved (although willing to work through it) and now this. I suspect this means a new carb. If it does, I wonder how tough it is putting that together. That choke assembly looks like a bear say nothing of the electrical part of it. I certainly am not going to have a stealership do it. Way to expensive for my pocketbook. I just spent money on foundation repairs. That money was going to replace my old truck. Not no more. Old truck is going to get older. Don't know how difficult it would be for me to put together a new carb. You guys who have done it will have to let me know how difficult it is. I don't know if the electrical portion is just a matter of unplugging and plugging in. The choke I can't even imagine what's involved.


This is a new problem. I'm going to do a new post and get some input.


Right now I feel just feel like selling it. But I just took delivery of new tires. I'll see what the forum offers for help.
 

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I have had this problem before. I used a self taping screw slightly larger than the screw, and it works just fine, never a problem.
 
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