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Just for fun, and giggles, next time you ride, and get back home,remove the air cleaner housing, .When it gets cold, remove the float bowl, very carefully, not to disturb the float, and see if it is stuck in the up position, if it is, you found your problem. If that is the case, find out why it is stuck, and fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Just for fun, and giggles, next time you ride, and get back home,remove the air cleaner housing, .When it gets cold, remove the float bowl, very carefully, not to disturb the float, and see if it is stuck in the up position, if it is, you found your problem. If that is the case, find out why it is stuck, and fix it.
Related to your post.......
Parts should be here soon. Until then, I've been watching some vids on youtube from good sources (actual techs) and they talk about polishing the Float Valve Needle Seat. They both used Q tips chucked in a drill. One used PB Blaster to clean. Shane Conley had an actual set of various sized brushes for aggressive cleaning. I noticed when I had the carb apart, and looked at the seat, it looked "dirty" for lack of a better term or maybe marked. It wasn't shiny. I sometimes wonder if I should attempt to clean it. Anyone here ever done that??


Am I correct that the float valve needle seat is not replaceable? I saw somewhere a VTX Carb Kit online . It appeared to have a seat with an O ring. Is there a fuel strainer tied into this as well? So I'm wondering if it is replaceable. I was up to Partzilla but didn't see a seat or strainer.


Having said all this, I'm wondering if a dirty seat is part of the problem I'm having. As long as I have it apart, maybe attempt to clean it.
 

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Keep the Q-tip away from the carb.

Someone within 6 weeks found a cotton ball in their 1300.
Fibers came off while rubbing probably.

Wire, spray or air only.

Read past threads.

Look at MR VTX CARB 101
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Keep the Q-tip away from the carb.

Someone within 6 weeks found a cotton ball in their 1300.
Fibers came off while rubbing probably.

Wire, spray or air only.

Read past threads.

Look at MR VTX CARB 101
Just found the Carb 101 yesterday, thanks. I did clean the seat with a Qtip chucked in a drill with some cleaner. Shane Conley teaches his tech students this method so I felt confident in doing it coupled with the fact I was very careful in blowing it out with air from both sides, inlet and seat side coupled with a lots of carb cleaner and more air. Lots of air. I let it dry and blew it out some more. Fibers aren't so small you can't see them where you can, if you take the time to look. I was concerned about fibers from the onset, but if Conley has done this for years I thought I'd try anyway with careful follow up cleaning. If he was having issues with fibers, I think he'd discover that years ago and stop doing it. If a person is careless in follow up cleaning after using them, sure I imagine you could run into trouble. I did get crap off and the seat is as shiney as ever. Looks much better than before. When I get the parts, I'll blow it out some more and see what happens. If I blow cotton balls out the tail pipe I'll have learned a lesson. Had I read your post before I did it, it would have given me pause to reconsider. But, it's done and I'm hoping for the best! Hopefully being extra diligent in followup cleaning will be the key. I would not use Qtips anywhere else on the carb. But a wet Qtip in that seat area only seems safe enough. We will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I can’t help but think you are not on the right track. I’m no expert, just a backyard wrencher like yourself. But the float needle allows gas into the bowl, correct? Even if the needle was stuck closed, shouldn’t there be enough fuel in the bowl from your last ride to start the bike?


Sitting on my VTX making vroom vroom sounds.

https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/members/95246-smurfy71-albums-my-vtx1300-picture40314-img-1373.jpg
You would think so. I pulled the bowl off before I cold started it one time and there was just a tablespoon that drained out. Not much. Then I think, vacuum on the fuel valve but once the bike does start (after much fidgeting) there's no issue with fuel flow. It always reverts to the bike sitting and getting cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
No go! New float/float needle.......Same old issue. I'm at a total loss at this point.


It started. Rough. Died. Gave it a little choke. Started. Throttled, rough, die, no restart.


I took the top of the carb apart yesterday when putting in new parts and the boot/rubber is fine, needle fine. Everything in the carb is either new or freshly clean and looking good. It strictly a cold start issue. When I got it together yesterday, it ran great as I mentioned above.


I just don't get it. Runs great once I can get it started. But a big no go on cold start.


What is it in cold starting that is doing this? Choke assbly issue?


I've got the A/F turned out 2 turns from 2 1/2. Leaned out. Is it choking on too much fuel? But runs OK when hot. Crank it down to 1 1/2?


Right now I feel pretty defeated. Dang!
 

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Since I bought my 1300C with the exception of a few weeks one summer, I have always pulled out the choke fully..

Never a problem. After it is running then I push it in where the choke is still providing high idle. Take off then after hitting 3rd or 4th gear push knob in..

Read the owner's manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Since I bought my 1300C with the exception of a few weeks one summer, I have always pulled out the choke fully..

Never a problem. After it is running then I push it in where the choke is still providing high idle. Take off then after hitting 3rd or 4th gear push knob in..

Read the owner's manual?
I have the shop manual handy at all times. Yup, that's been my method too. But now it dies when choked. Today, I tested the vacuum on the fuel valve, worked fine, no gas in my mouth when I drew in. Gas flowed freely. Now get this, the bike was on the stand, sitting level, wife says, "Try starting it." I did she fired and idled like she never has before, perfect. Now remember, yesterday I put in a 58 idle jet. My bike appeared to like it. But, now back to the starting when level, not on the stand. On the stand, no go, on the level, started, idled perfectly. Yesterday I intalled a new float and float needle/valve. So that was not the issue. Recall, the bike fell while on the stand idling. The bike killed when it hit. I don't think there is a auto shut off like on the 1800's. So what happened when the bike fell? My issue started right after the accident. Related? Who knows. I went for a long ride today with no issues whatsoever. Tonite when I garaged it, I put it on the stand on the level while it cools. I'll try tomorrow. If it starts, on the level we have some really wierd issue gong on. If it doesn't start I'm going to look really close at all the vacuum lines. It appears to be a fuel to carb. issue. When I cranked on it to get it started early on today, I pulled a plug. It was dry and no gas smell. No flooding smell either.

It's one wierd problem, there's a failure somewhere, but needing a strong flashlight to find it. It's become a challenge now! It's not gong to beat me. No stealership will touch it. It's just a process of elimination. Tomorrow s another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
I think...I may have found my problem. A tore fuel valve diaphram. Some mentioned this earlier. Don't know why I was so slow in testing it. I did today and was found wanting. The tear I found was the one he says is difficult to find. It tore at that center spindle it's attached to. I'll be ordering the part unless my stealer has one. IF, this is the issue with my bike, I want to know what the heck the tapping on the bowl did to aid in getting the thing started every time. I'll probably never know. I don't know if I want to.



Some good info here:
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Here's the pic of the tear. The original I spotted was very small. Once I touched it, it got a lot bigger. It was ripe for a full blown failure. I've ordered the part. A Petcock Cover Set it's called. Thirty bucks.


 

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That diaphragm is EXACTLY what held me up at the last rolling thunder ride. I rode to DC from NJ, no problem (2005 VTX-C) and was having on again and off again symptoms you explained. When it would act up if felt (on my butttttometer) like one or 2 plugs were not firing. Been playing with this for over 2 yrs....This year at the ride, i reversed the spring inside the petcock to make it a gravity feed ONLY petcock to get back home. WORKED PERFECTLY, and while doing that I found the same tear you mention and a few really small others. I replaced the rubber diaphragm just to stay with the original setup and safety reason. So far - absolutely zero problems. I think you found your issue. I also replaced all the vacuum lines ( I have done the pair valve removal long ago), and had a hard time getting the correct size lines from online places.
Petcock assembly (16953-KEA-023) and because I was 'upset' at the time, i tore the sparkplug boot too.....but luckily I was able to wrap it in electrical tape and it is still holding...about 3K miles since...I ordered a replacement boot (30700-MEA-611) but haven't replaced it yet.

Hope it fixed your issues!

RIDE SAFE, RIDE OFTEN

KORBO
 

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Discussion Starter #55
That diaphragm is EXACTLY what held me up at the last rolling thunder ride. I rode to DC from NJ, no problem (2005 VTX-C) and was having on again and off again symptoms you explained. When it would act up if felt (on my butttttometer) like one or 2 plugs were not firing. Been playing with this for over 2 yrs....This year at the ride, i reversed the spring inside the petcock to make it a gravity feed ONLY petcock to get back home. WORKED PERFECTLY, and while doing that I found the same tear you mention and a few really small others. I replaced the rubber diaphragm just to stay with the original setup and safety reason. So far - absolutely zero problems. I think you found your issue. I also replaced all the vacuum lines ( I have done the pair valve removal long ago), and had a hard time getting the correct size lines from online places.

Hope it fixed your issues!

RIDE SAFE, RIDE OFTEN

KORBO
Thanks! Man, I'm hoping it's the problem. It has to be. The carb has been thoroughly cleaned. But remember, when I did get it started, it ran beautifull, and restarted fine whenever I stopped. With that it would have to be a fuel feed problem. A dirty carb would be problematic all the time. Yup, I've got new vacuum lines to install. Crazy not to. Pretty simple. Waiting on the new diaphragm to be delivered. I hate not being to ride. It's been beautiful weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Definitely sounds like the petcock. Get rid of that vacuum actuated crap.
I use a standard on/off/reserve valve without all the nanny state safety bullcrap.

When you pull the gas line to test flow, you break the vacuum that was preventing it from starting and it appears to test fine. Next time it happens, pull the gas line then stick it back on. I bet it will start. Been there, done that.
Donnie, I'm really thinking you were right on, right from the beginnng. I wish I had listened to you and Hans&Feet early on and started at the fuel valve instead of the carb and working back to the valve. I should have tore into the diaphragm from the start. Lesson learned.

The new parts just delivered. I hope I can kill this thread with success. Later.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Ok, so I've now had two successful days of cold starting after replacing the petcock diaphragm assembly. I'm calling it resolved at this point. That hasn't happened in about a months time. A special thanks to everyone that responded to the thread. Lessons learned on my behalf. I wouldn't have this bike unless you all were there to help me fix it. I really feel deprived if I can't hop on that bike and ride it whenever I want to. Thanks everyone!


Now, it needs new tires......
 

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My theory, when you shut down the engine, fuel cooled in the hose. A slight vacuum held float needle closed. A thump broke it loose.

Without the thump the vaccum leak was too large to open the fuel valve which in turn kept the float valve closed..
 
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